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THE

STRAIGHT STORY

What you need to know about keratin smoothing systems

THE F WORD

negative press because some products have been found to include trace amounts of formaldehyde. The truth is that formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient. It's a gas and cannot be used in liquid or cream-based cosmetics. Methylene glycol, on the other hand, is created when formaldehyde chemically reacts with water. Formaldehyde gas is almost insoluble in water, but it will instantly convert

PHOTOGRAPHY: ROBERT LYNDEN; HAIR AND MAKEUP: GUYANNE FOR ENVY SALON AND SPA

We might as well start by addressing the elephant in the room: formaldehyde. Everyone's talking about it, but Cadiveu is actually doing something to address the issue.

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ET'S GET RIGHT TO THE POINT: Keratin smoothing treatments have given the beauty industry a much needed shot in the arm, but they've also gotten a lot of

service was being performed. The testing made use of Active Pump Monitoring, which is preferred by OSHA and other regulatory authorities as it provides the most accurate and useful information. Our results indicate that while performing Cadiveu Brasil Cacau Smoothing Treatment, stylist exposure to trace levels of formaldehyde gas is less than 0.097 parts per million (ppm) over an eight hour time-weighted average, while the most stringent OSHA standard is 0.5 ppm over eight hours. Therefore, exposures are more than five times below the level considered safe by OSHA. Client exposures, as expected, were substantially lower at 0.063 ppm, almost eight times below OSHA's most stringent exposure level. To continue to advocate for the category and establish regulations and standards, Cadiveu and others initiated the formation of the Professional Keratin Smoothing Council. The primary objective is to call for proper testing methods that do not distort the product in a manner that would never occur in the salon, ensuring material safety data sheet (MSDS) compliance and full disclosure of ingredients. The Council has become an industry portal for accurate information about this popular category of products and services through legal advocacy, testing and education. A website (pksc.org) is now up and running in order to disseminate information. ILU Beauty imports Cadiveu products into the United States and Canada. To find a distributor in your area or to become a distributor, call 818/595-5999.

in methylene glycol, a substance with a completely different chemical structure and with characteristics much different than formaldehyde. When a product containing methylene glycol is heated, the equilibrium shifts, and that can release traces of formaldehyde. Although it would be unusual for these traces to exceed Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA) safe limits, they can be irritating to eyes, nose, throat and lungs, especially for people with sensitivities. Proper ventilation can do much to alleviate any concerns your clients or your staff might have. It's become clear to us that when our application process is followed correctly and proper ventilation is used, both stylist and client can enjoy a comfortable experience. We've also gone to great lengths to ensure that our products are safe for use in the salon. A panel of scientific experts have examined the Cadiveu formula and tested the brand in salons while the

Let's Get Something Straight

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Keratin smoothing treatments like Brasil Cacau from Cadiveu have revolutionized the beauty industry and helped a lot of salon owners weather the recession.

HEN PIN-STRAIGHT HAIR WAS in vogue a few years ago, women all over the country scheduled weekly blow-outs just as they had wash-and-sets 40 years ago. Then along came The service is also incredibly lucrative. Cost per application is roughly $20, but many salons are charging between $250 to $600 for the treatment. Repeat business is inevitable because the results are so addictive. Cadiveu contains 0.5 percent vegetable keratin, which is just the right amount needed to strengthen the hair and improve elasticity. Panthenol, also known as pro-vitamin B5, is a humectant, emollient and moisturizer. Cacao, which is derived from cacao beans, contains more than 300 compounds, including sulfur, which helps form stronger hair and nails. Easily absorbed, it adds shine and hydrates hair that's dry and brittle. The process takes 90 minutes. First, hair is shampooed with Brasil Cacau Anti Residue Shampoo. With an alkaline pH of 9.0, it helps to open the cuticle so the active ingredients in the Thermal Reconstruction Solution, which has an acid pH of 2.8 and adds cross-links to proteins in the cuticle, can penetrate better. Once the outer shaft is hardened, it's more difficult for the cuticle layer to lift so hair feels smoother. Next, the hair is dried using a blow-dryer on a cool setting. A flat iron set at 350-450 degrees straightens the hair to the desired pattern, sealing the formula's ingredients onto the hair shaft. The final step is the Deep Conditioning Mask to restore normal pH balance and ensure hair health and shine. To increase revenue, price the service to include a "free" home maintenance kit that includes Anti Frizz Shampoo and Conditioner, Anti Frizz Leave-in Conditioner and Hydrating Hair Complex (intensive restoration that promotes hair balance). Most clients will need to repurchase at least once before their next service. Or, offer a two-for-one program with an incentive for two clients who have the service done at the same time. Another option is to offer a one-year package that will allow the client to have the service done up to four times per year for a set fee, which should be paid in advance. You can also create a bonus program for nonhairdressing staff members who sell the service or hairdressers who sell one-year packages. Finally, create a gifting program around holidays like Mother's Day, Valentine's Day or Christmas to make it easy for your male clients to "gift" the women in their lives on those occasions.

keratin smoothing treatments that could tame wild, unruly curls while eliminating frizz. The look, which replaced frizzy curls with shine, bounce and movement, became known as the "beach wave," and everybody wanted it. In Brazil, hair-smoothing treatments have been popular for a number of years, but until recently, all straightening systems were thio-based, which permanently alters the hair bonds. Recently a new approach was created, which became known as the Brazilian Keratin Treatment. With chemists and laboratories located in Brazil, Cadiveu became an innovator in this category. Now the company's Brasil Cacau Smoothing Treatment is available to salons in the United States from ILU Beauty. The heat-activated restructuring process leaves hair radiantly smooth and frizz-free for up to three months. And while the improper application of product in these treatments can cause irritation to eyes and throats, Cadiveu provides excellent education and pH chemistry to infuse keratin, d-panthenol and cacao onto the hair cuticle to strengthen the hair fiber, seal the cuticle, improve the integrity of the hair and create brilliant shine.

The Brasil Cacau Smoothing Treatment includes Anti Residue Shampoo, Thermal Reconstruction Solution, Deep Conditioning Mask and a line of maintenance products for clients to use at home.

It's Only Natural

Açai Therapy is the first natural-based treatment to make hair smooth and frizz-free. Its secret? Revolutionary new sugarcane cysteine technology and organic açai.

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ELCOME TO A NEW AGE OF hair treatments with a system that was created specifically for clients who want smooth, frizz-free hair but prefer a more natural-based alternative

· Frizz-Free Curls Recommended for clients with frizzy, bushy or shapeless hair. Actually improves the texture of curly hair while eliminating frizz. · Texturization Recommended for clients with thin hair that lacks volume. Provides more density and texture. · Açai Crystallization Recommended for clients with dry, frizzy hair. Eliminates frizz while nourishing the hair. · Maximum Reconstruction Recommended for clients with damaged hair. Provides intense hair restructuring. What's more, Açai Therapy is a regulated treatment that does not contain methylene glycol or other forms of formaldehyde or glutaraldehyde, or encapsulated aldehydes (imidazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin and the like). Here's how it works: First, the Clarifying Shampoo with an alkaline pH opens the cuticle, eliminating impurities and preparing the hair for the treatment. Next, the Active Solution improves tensile strength so hair is smooth, shiny and frizz-free. Finally, the Nourishing Mask seals the cuticle of the hair to prolong the treatment effects. Since results depend on the heat of the flat iron and the number of passes it makes over the hair shaft, stylists have the freedom to create customized looks best for each client's hair type and the desired effect. To help clients maintain their results, you'll want to suggest an at-home regimen that includes Restoring Shampoo and Restoring Conditioner, which are formulated with a high concentration of organic açai to nourish and rejuvenate hair and scalp. So what are you waiting for? Start a revolution by being the first salon in your community to offer a range of hair-smoothing treatments that can be used without restriction in the United States and Canada.

Organic Açai Berry Clarifying Shampoo, Active Solution and Nourishing Mask

to chemical services. The secret is organic açai (pronounced ah-sigh-ee), the superfruit that comes from a palm tree native to the Amazon forest. Its powerful antioxidant properties, like omegas 3, 6 and 9, not only reduce free radicals but also protect hair from sun damage. Rich in essential fatty acids, phytosterols, polyphenols, iron, calcium and vitamins C, B1 and B2, organic açai has been called the "pearl of the Amazon."

Organic açai is the superfruit of the Amazon, the largest tropical rainforest in the world.

Now add Cadiveu's exclusive sugarcane cysteine technology to the mix and you've got a revolutionary new product that's safe and effective on all hair types, including frizzy, color- treated hair; medium to thick wavy hair; thick, frizzy hair; or blonde and color- treated hair. Derived from sugarcane and cysteine amino acid, sugarcane cysteine is a totally new ingredient that's activated by the heat of the straightener to act

within the cuticle layers, closing the cuticle and smoothing the surface to reflect intense shine. Results can last up to three months as hair gradually goes back to its original condition. One of the most common complaints heard in the salon today is that hair is shapeless, frizzy and dull looking, but providing a solution has required hairdressers to use different treatments, many of them both costly and time-consuming. Not anymore. Açai Therapy actually allows hairdressers to perform different services with a single system. Clients can choose from the following services: · Natural Smooth Hair Recommended for clients with frizzy, shapeless or wavy hair. The smoothing effect can last up to three months. · Sophisticated Waves Recommended for clients with frizzy, bushy or shapeless hair. Literally transforms frizzy hair into beautiful, silky waves.

When it comes to the variety of smoothing treatments on the market, we know you've got a lot of questions. Fortunately, we've got answers.

The Brasil Cacau Smoothing Treatment is a heat-activated restructuring process that can be used on all hair types to make the hair radiantly smooth and frizz-free for months. No. The drying procedure should be done in stages. Dry two sections of hair before proceeding to the next section with a blow-dryer set on cool or medium temperature and held 6 to 8 inches away from the Before doing a Brasil Cacau treatment, scalp. This can help to keep the product from releasing fumes. follow all application instructions and to perform all services in a properly ventilated work environment.

You Asked, We Answered

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tie her hair back or shampoo her hair? There's no waiting period. Clients can shampoo, shower or tie the hair back on the same day as the service.

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How long after the service can my client

whole new array of services and addresses the needs of a wider audience. Still, we know you've got questions when it comes to this relatively new service, and we've got the answers.

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Can my client leave after the flat-ironing

is complete and go home and shampoo her hair with the Açai Therapy home maintenance product? No. The treatment is not complete until the hair is shampooed and the Mask is applied. For the best results and the longest lasting effects, follow the recommended step-by-step instructions.

Smoothing Treatment What does it mean if my client or I experience and a Keratin Nourishing Treatment? Keratin Nourishing Treatment is a 15-minute service for dry or damaged hair that adds shine and smoothness. It will also extend the life of the Brasil Cacau treatment, strengthening elasticity and boosting shine. While it isn't meant to replace the Brasil Cacau treatment, it will provide some smoothing. It's formulated with ingredients like cocoa butter, which contains essential fatty acids What happens if solution is applied to and antioxidant properties, and keratin, which supports the cuticle layer, making it tougher and increasing elasticity. D-panthenol, which is also known as pro vitamin B5, adds hydration and incredible shine. Açai Therapy Smoothing Treatment was made for clients who prefer botanical and organic-based products. It's also perfect for those with finer hair texture who want frizzfree hair without decreasing the volume. What's more, the new technology lets you offer a

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What is the difference between a Keratin

may I apply hair color? You can apply color in 48 to 72 hours and after at least two shampoos.

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How many days after applying Açai Therapy

should I do a strand test? A strand test is recommended to confirm the internal strength and toughness of the hair, but it's also a good idea to do a patch test on anyone with a preexisting allergy or sensitivity.

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burning or discomfort of eyes, nose or throat during the service? It is essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions precisely and make sure services are being performed in a professionally ventilated work area. Signs of irritation indicate that procedures are not being followed or ventilation needs to be examined.

What is the expected result on coarse or

Formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient. The product does contain methylene glycol that under specific circumstances may release varying amounts of formaldehyde gas during the service. If you or your client suspects a pre-existing condition to formaldehyde, formalin or methylene glycol, this product should not be used.

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frizzy hair? Açai Therapy promotes a natural smooth result and eliminates frizz while giving hair more texture and density. The result is shiny, softer, frizz-free hair.

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Will Açai Therapy change light, blonde or

color-treated hair? Açai Therapy Active Solution can add warm tones to light, blonde or double-processed hair or alter over-processed, pre-colored hair. Regardless of which service you want to perform on light or white hair shades or weaved, highlighted or double-processed and bleached hair, set the flat iron temperature no higher than 350 F. Higher temperatures may affect haircolor. For best results on double-processed hair, color after using Açai Therapy.

Does the product contain formaldehyde?

applying Brasil Cacau solution? No. It's better to adhere to proper application instructions and apply to broad sections of the hair to ensure the quickest and most comfortable application. For best results, apply the amount needed to cover the hair evenly and avoid over-application of product.

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Is it better to take smaller sections when

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hair?

Is Açai Therapy the best treatment for coarse or

frizzy hair to achieve straight For best results, we recommend Brasil Cacau on this type of hair. If the client wants a naturalbased treatment, Açai Therapy will eliminate frizz and make the hair smoother with a more relaxed curl pattern.

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the scalp? The consumer could have an adverse reaction, like redness, swelling or irritation. The best way to keep this from happening is to take broad sections and never apply the product directly to the roots. Leave about a quarter of an inch between the scalp and the point of application to the hair shaft. If the consumer has any adverse reaction, we suggest offering the Açai Therapy treatment by Cadiveu.

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What is methylene glycol?

Methylene glycol is a substance in the alcohol family that can be made by reacting formaldehyde with water to form a completely different chemical structure that has different characteristics. When methylene glycol is heated, traces of formaldehyde gas are released, which is why we advise salon professionals to

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How long does Açai Therapy last?

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What can I do to eliminate or minimize

any possible change to color-treated or blonde hair from Açai Therapy? Follow the recommendations made by Cadiveu in the step-bystep procedure and make sure the flat iron temperature does not exceed 180 C (350 F).

Treatment to the whole head of hair and then dry with the hair dryer?

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When the recommended procedures are followed and the proper home maintenance products are used regularly, results can last up to three months.

Can I apply Brasil Cacau Reconstruction

Rescue Remedy

hair incredibly soft and smooth. The secret is a combination of active ingredients like cocoa butter, keratin and d-panthenol. Chock full of essential fatty acids, cocoa butter has incredible nourishing and moisturizing properties. Keratin, of course, is a key structural protein material making up the outer layer of human skin and hair. It's not only tough but also insoluble, forming a strong outer layer. Meanwhile, d-panthenol (also known as pro vitamin B5) is an important nutrient that helps maintain healthy hair by providing hydration, suppleness and shine. Here's how it works: With an alkaline pH of 9.0, the Anti Residue Shampoo opens the cuticle and enhances absorption of the active ingredients, promoting intense hydration. Meanwhile, the Deep Conditioning Mask and Keratin Nourishing Treatment have a pH of 4.5 to close the cuticle so nutrients are trapped deep within the hair fiber to extend results and promote maximum shine.

Hair that's been damaged by chemical services or thermal appliances can benefit from the Brasil Cacau Keratin Nourishing Treatment.

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INALLY, THERE'S A SOLUTION FOR hair that looks brittle, lifeless and dull: Brasil Cacau Keratin Nourishing Treatment. The intense three-step treatment takes just 15 minutes and helps prevent breakage while leaving

Envy Salon in Sherman Oaks, CA, is the flagship salon for Cadiveu USA.

The result? Hair becomes deeply nourished, frizz-free and Just follow these steps: 1. Shampoo the hair with Anti Residue Shampoo. Do not scrub the scalp. Rinse thoroughly. This step is essential to prep the hair to better absorb the nutrients in the treatment. 2. Apply the Deep Conditioning Mask with a tint brush and comb it through from roots to ends. For more thorough results, section the hair into panels before applying the mask. Do not rinse. Enriched with key ingredients like cocoa butter, vegetable keratin protein and d-panthenol, the mask not only helps the hair to become more resilient, but it also provides deep hydration and eliminates frizz. 3. Apply the Keratin Nourishing Treatment (approximately 1½ ounces) over the top of the mask and comb through the hair. Use your fingers to gently manipulate in downward strokes over the mask and treatment for about five minutes. 4. Rinse the hair thoroughly. Dry and style as desired. soft to the touch. Depending on how badly damaged the hair is, clients can schedule weekly treatments until the hair is restored. To support the results achieved in the salon, it's important to send clients out the door with an at-home haircare regimen of four products that have a pH of 4.5 to restore balance. Anti-Frizz Shampoo, enriched with keratin and cocoa, is gentle enough to use daily and provides moisture, while Anti-Frizz Conditioner deeply moisturizes and seals down the cuticle of the hair. Leavein Anti-Frizz gives hair a shiny and smooth appearance while keeping the frizz at bay. We also recommend the Hydrating Hair Complex for clients who want to give themselves a moisturizing treatment at home. Meanwhile, Hydrating Hair Complex has powerful nourishing actions to restore healthy hair. With client retention a top priority for salon owners, there's never been a better time to add the Keratin Nourishing Treatment to your service menu. This treatment is not just an add-on to your service ticket, but also a chance to impress your clients with a treatment that delivers amazing results they simply won't find anywhere else.

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