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SUN CARE

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Sensational suncare Meeting market needs

The suncare market is rapidly growing with new sub segments and product formats appearing on the market in order to meet consumers ever changing needs. New products offer stronger claims and greater levels of protection whilst still providing a pleasant consumer experience. Sun care product's Sun Protection Factors (SPF) are getting higher, whilst European labels are limited to SPF50+ in the US products are now available with SPFs as high as 80. Sun care products need to be light and easy to spread over the skin whilst depositing a uniform layer of sun protection. This has to be balanced with a soft, silky, non-greasy after-feel so that the consumer does not even perceive that they are wearing a sunscreen. Other properties such as the need for water resistance or added self tan need to be identified in line with the end consumers needs. The choice of sunscreen agent is key and the decision whether to use chemical or physical sunscreens needs to be made. It is all a question of balance. Cognis Care Chemicals develops concepts, which enable the formulator to meet these difficult challenges and to offer the right balance between high formulation performance and product elegance. When developing modern sun care products it is essential to consider the performance criteria of the raw materials as many materials offer synergistic effects. By selecting Care Chemicals' multifunctional raw materials, formulations can be improved for example by enhance the efficacy of the UV-filters and at the same time improving the skin-feel. Other benefits such as increased stability or optimization of cost and processing may also be possible. The choice of the emollient remains the key to any sun care formulation. Sunscreen solubility and SPF can be enhanced by selecting the right material whether formulating a cream, lotion or a spray. Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate) is a fast and easy spreading emollient that creates a dry after feel on the skin. It is suitable for sun protection applications due to its solubilising capacity for crystalline UV filters including the newer UVA absorbers. It also offers excellent dispersing properties for pigments. When formulating elegant facial suncare, Cetiol SenSoft(Propylheptyl Caprylate)should be considered the emollient of choice. It is soft and silky during application whilst giving a highly appreciated velvety after-feel. Cetiol Sensoft has been shown to provide a positive "happy" emotion when applied to the skin and what could be better for a suncare product. Cetiol SenSoft has good UV filter solubilising power, and can also act as a wetting agent for pigmented sunscreens. For premium facial suncare products Emulgade Sucro (Sucrose Polystearate and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene) can be considered. This sugar based emulsifier aids the formation of lamellar crystals within emulsions. This structure then assists in the delivery of moisture to the skin providing the possibility of continuous moisturisation ideal for suncare. The skin feel from Emulgade Sucro is soft and silky and highly elegant. A key demand for modern sun care formulations is to minimize the oily feel often caused by the use of UV filters. Cosmedia SP (Sodium Polyacrylate) one of Cognis' emulsifying polymers provides a unique sensorial and performance profile. It is able to minimize the oily feeling of UV filters, especially in high SPF products. This is supported by its good compatibility with organic UV filters, waterproofing agents and a broad range of emollients. Additionally the product is hot or cold processable, easy to use and leads to very stable emulsions from lotions to creams and even to spray formulations. Cosmedia SP has been found to work particularly well in association with Eumulgin SG (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate). This naturally based highly hydrophilic emulsifier can be used at low levels to stabilise emulsions without impacting adversely on the texture and skin feel.

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Household and Personal Care Today · n 2/2008 · Focus on Sun care

SUN CARE

Eumulgin SG has excellent electrolyte tolerance ensuring that it is compatible with water soluble sunscreen agents and many skincare active ingredients. This gives the formulator increased flexibility for boarder spectrum protection products. Products that are designed for the beach, sport or playing around water must meet stringent water resistance requirements. Cognis' water resistant agent Cosmedia DC (Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl / Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer) offers an excellent way to achieve this. Through its unique switch mechanism Cosmedia DC creates hydrophobic films when applied on the skin giving water resistance at 1 or 2% addition levels. It provides additional benefits of a "moisture boost" effect and is considerably less sticky and more pleasant to apply then traditional formulations. Products for the green consumer are becoming increasingly important in all categories of personal care and this is true in suncare too. With its Green Chemical Solutions Cognis can give you an up front appraisal of the degree of naturalness of all of its raw materials. You can then choose the correct balance between performance and "greenness" that you require for your products. Cognis' natural emulsifier Eumulgin VL-75 (Lauryl Glucoside and Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Glycerin) provides an ideal basis for a greener sun care product. An EO-free emulsifier derived solely from vegetable materials it offers effective performance with excellent skin compatibility. Eumulgin VL-75 can be used for standard hot mix or cold process to manufacture suncare emulsions from sprays to creams. Cognis' other APG based emulsifier Emulgade PL68/50 (Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol) can also be used for cosmetically elegant natural based creams and lotions. The coconut oil emollient, Myritol 331 (Cocoglycerides) also offers an excellent choice for such products. Phase Inversion Temperature (P .I.T) technology continues to offer the ideal solution for water-thin, stable emulsion systems without any homogenization step. It is ideal for manufacturing ultra-fine sun protection sprays. A more traditional approach for children's and baby products is the use of inherently water resistant water in oil emulsions. These can provide a uniform film on the skin, leaving a protective layer and constant hydration. Dehymuls PGPH (Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate), Lameform TGI (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) and Monomuls 90-O-18 (Glyceryl Oleate) are efficient and flexible w/o emulsifiers, allowing the formulation of a wide range of different textures and viscosities with excellent sensory proper ties. Dehymuls LE (PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) can be used to prepare particularly fluid W/O systems. Self tan products for a gradual or intense colour have gone from strength to strength in the global market. New opportunities for formulating self tan products have opened up with the advent of cationic polymers such as Ultragel 300 (Polyquater nium-37) and Cosmedia CTH E (Polyquater nium-37 and Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate and PPG-1 Trideceth-6). Ultragel 300 can be used to produce clear gel systems at acidic pH whilst Cosmedia CTH E acts as the ideal base for serums, gel creams or soft silky lotions. Cationic emulsions give a superb soft dry skin feel which is ideal for sun care applications. A key trend for 2008 has been the launch of products claiming to protect the skin's DNA and Cognis can offer the ideal solution for this with DNAge LS 9653. This extract from the Candle Tree Senna alata prevents sun-induced skin damage by protection of the DNA patrimony of cells. UV radiation damages both nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, which encodes the proteins required to create ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate). It has been shown that DNAge LS 9653 reduces the damage to both DNAs after exposure to sunlight. The product contains an identified active tracer, and has been clinically proven to prevent sun-induced alteration of micro relief, as well as to effectively supporting the endogenous repair of skin cell DNA (in vitro test). It is suitable for use in a wide range of products especially anti-aging sun protection products. Other actives ideal for suncare products include Sunactyl LS9610. This multi active botanical and biotechnological complex offers protection of the skin's self-defense mechanism through the Glutathion cycle. It also contributes to free radical protection. HSP BALANCE® LS 9587 an extract of germinated rye seeds helps to prepare the skin to defend itself against heat stress and prevent UV radiation and resulting heat damage to cellular proteins. New claims to the market for 2008 are for anti-age spot (also called brown spot or liver spots) products. These hyper-pigmented marks start to appear after the age of 40 as the skin becomes less able to regenerate itself. One possible solution is the use of skin lightening technology long used on the Asian market where brightening and whitening products are common. A new launch in 2007 Actiwhite LS9808 offers the opportunity to reduce the appearance of these ageing marks upon the skin. Botanical extracts have long played an important role in sunscreen formulations. Cognis' holistic Aloveria is ideal for use in suncare and aftersun products due to its soothing and calming properties. Herbalia Green Tea and Herbalia Olive COGNIS GmbH offer natural anti-oxidant properties and Vitamin E remains an Phone +49 211 79400 excellent option for this too. [email protected] www.cognis.com The sun care market of fers many challenges and oppor tunities. With its comprehensive range of multifunctional raw materials Cognis Care Chemicals can support you with product concepts and formulations to achieve market success.

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Household and Personal Care Today · n 2/2008 · Focus on Sun care

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