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Contents

DEDICATION ................................................................................... 4 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS .................................................................. 4 ABOUT THE AUTHOR .................................................................... 5 INTRODUCTION ............................................................................. 6 CHAPTER 1 SIX METHODS FOR DATING COSTUME JEWELRY .................. 8 METHOD ONE: SIGNATURES ................................................................ 8 METHOD TWO: PATENTS .................................................................... 12 METHOD THREE: VINTAGE ADVERTISEMENTS ................................... 19 METHOD FOUR: DATING JEWELRY BY STYLE ...................................... 23 METHOD FIVE: BOOKS AND THE INTERNET....................................... 35 METHOD SIX: PROVENANCE............................................................... 36 A FEW WORDS ABOUT THIS BOOK AND ITS CHARTS ......................... 37 CHAPTER 2 CORO AND VENDÔME JEWELRY .............................................. 39 CORO AND VENDÔME JEWELRY GALLERY ........................................ 109 CHAPTER 3 TRIFARI JEWELRY ........................................................................ 142 TRIFARI JEWELRY GALLERY ............................................................... 211 CHAPTER 4 OTHER JEWELRY MAKERS ........................................................ 240 APPENDIX A: MANUFACTURER AND MARKS CHART ................................. 479 APPENDIX B: DESIGNERS CHART .................................................................... 490 APPENDIX C: VIEW PATENTS ONLINE ............................................................ 491 BIBLIOGRAPHY ........................................................................... 493 INDEX ............................................................................................ 494

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Introduction

One of the most frequently asked questions I receive from beginning and intermediate collectors is "How old is this piece?" Collecting Costume Jewelry 202: The Basics of Dating Jewelry, 1935 ­ 1980 is intended to help collectors answer this question. This text explores, with clear instructions and colorful illustrations, the following six methods for dating costume jewelry: · Method one: Dating jewelry from the maker's signature. · Method two: Dating jewelry using patent information. · Method three: Dating jewelry by reviewing vintage advertisements. · Method four: Dating jewelry by the style or design of the piece. · Method five: Dating jewelry using books and the internet. · Method six: Dating jewelry by provenance. trations proffer a peak into the minds of the designers. By viewing one of these drawings, the collector can appreciate the designer's original artistic vision for a piece. In addition, sprinkled throughout this volume are over 160 vintage advertisements from 1943 through 1982, complete with photographs of example jewelry featured in many of the ads. These ads establish dates of manufacture for the featured jewelry. Furthermore, these advertisements chronicle the fashions of the time, providing precious clues regarding changing style trends over time. Chapter 1 clearly defines each of the six methods for dating costume jewelry, including examples and illustrations demonstrating each technique. At heart I am a teacher. This is the teaching chapter. Chapter 1 trains the reader in the techniques for dating jewelry with interesting examples, colorful and instructive photographs, and easy-to-follow jewelry-dating guidelines. Most of the design patents from 1935 through 1954 were issued for designs manufactured by Coro and Trifari. Therefore, chapters 2 and 3 are dedicated to Coro and Trifari jewelry. These chapters present the collector with a snapshot of how jewelry designs produced by these giants of the industry progressed and changed over time. By studying these chapters, a collector begins to recognize jewelry trends particular to a specific time in history. A collector can then apply this knowledge to help identify the probable date of manufacture for unpatented jewelry designs from Trifari and Coro, as well as jewelry designed by other makers. Chapter 4 provides a large reference section for collectors that includes patents, advertisements, and photos of jewelry for over 125 different makers (including over 40 makers that were not part of my first book, Collecting Costume Jewelry 101). Informative appendixes supply the collector with three easy-to-use reference charts:

I love research, so this book is packed full of information. I also love the charm, glamour, and artistic design of costume jewelry; therefore Collecting Costume Jewelry 202 includes over 600 clear and colorful photographs of vintage jewelry. These photographs exquisitely illustrate the ideas presented in the book about dating jewelry, while illuminating the beauty of these vintage treasures. Since the focus of this volume is to date jewelry, the picture captions provide dating information for each piece. Amazingly, using design patents, signatures, and vintage advertisements, many of these vintage "jewels" can be dated to a specific year. For others, detective work regarding style trends provides a range of years when the pieces could have been produced. A large reference section features design patent number charts for each maker. These informative and well-researched charts catalog over 4,000 design patent numbers issued from 1935 to 1954. Each chart records 1. Appendix A: Manufacturer and Marks Chart lists the design patent number, date issued, designer's the dates of operation and the most commonly name, maker, and jewelry type, and provides a brief found signatures for over 125 different makers. For description of the piece. Over 550 carefully selected example, the following information about Avon is illustrations, showing original patent drawings, are easily accessed using this chart. incorporated with these charts. These fascinating illus· Avon jewelry was produced 1971 ­ present. 6

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· CHAPTER 1 ·

Six Methods for Dating

Costume Jewelry

TECHNIQUE ONE: DATING JEWELRY USING THE DATES OF OPERATION

Six methods for dating costume jewelry are defined age of the piece. The following four techniques detail in this chapter. Examples, complete with illustrations, how to use the maker's mark to date jewelry designs. interpret each of these methods. 1. Method one provides three effective techniques to help date jewelry using the manufacturer's dates of operation and the maker's mark. 2. Method two clearly delineates the difference between utility and design patents and clarifies how to use these patents, especially design patents, to date jewelry. In addition, a utility patent chart is provided which lists a smattering of interesting utility patents. 3. Method three discusses three easy-to-find sources to locate vintage jewelry advertisements and defines two interesting techniques to date jewelry using these ads. 4. Method four, dating jewelry by the style or design of the piece, is one of the most challenging methods presented in this book. To assist the collector with this method, a style chart for 1935 ­ 1980 that lists the style trends for those years is included. 5. Method five explores the world of jewelry books with specific recommendations of beneficial books for dating costume jewelry. 6. Method six, dating jewelry by provenance, is one of the most fun techniques for dating jewelry. An amazing anecdote recounts how this pleasant method helps to date jewelry. It is my belief that by understanding all six methods defined in this chapter, a collector can establish a reasonably accurate range of years when a specific piece of costume jewelry was produced. For me, investigating the dates of manufacture for costume jewelry is fun. I hope that by the end of this chapter, my readers think so too.

The dates of operation are the years a maker was in the business of selling costume jewelry. This range of dates helps a collector to define a span of time when jewelry could have been produced. For example, Louis Kramer founded Kramer Jewelry Creations, Inc., in 1943. Kramer Jewelry Creations, Inc., ceased operations in 1979 or early 1980. Therefore, the Kramer pin and earrings set in Figure 1 must have been produced between 1943 and 1980. To help with this consult Appendix A: Manufacturer and Marks Chart. This chart provides the dates of operation for most collectible makers of costume jewelry.

SIX METHODS FOR DATING COSTUME JEWELRY

METHOD ONE:

Signatures

The signature on a vintage costume jewelry piece offers the collector valuable clues to help determine the 8

Figure 1. 1955 ­ 1980 Kramer amber colored rhinestone and "black diamond" colored rhinestone brooch and earrings. The sparkly 2" Kramer brooch and matching 1" clip earrings are signed "Kramer" with the copyright symbol, indicating they were produced after 1955. Kramer Jewelry Creations, Inc., produced jewelry from 1943 to 1980. This information narrows the range of years when this Kramer set was produced to between 1955 and 1980. $60.00 ­ 80.00.

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· Coro 1941 ·

125980 125981 125982 125983 125984 125985 125986 125987 126490 3/18/1941 3/18/1941 3/18/1941 3/18/1941 3/18/1941 3/18/1941 3/18/1941 3/18/1941 4/8/1941 Gene Verrecchio Gene Verrecchio Gene Verrecchio Gene Verrecchio Gene Verrecchio Gene Verrecchio Gene Verrecchio Gene Verrecchio Adolph Katz Brooch Brooch Brooch Brooch Brooch Brooch Brooch Brooch Duette Floral Floral Floral Floral Floral Floral Floral Floral Birds

125648 125676

1941 unmarked Coro Mr. and Mrs. Bird chatelaine. Although unmarked, this cute chatelaine matches patent number 125976 issued March 18, 1941, to Gene Verrecchio for Coro. Each bird measures 2" x 1" and features a sapphire blue cabochon belly. $90.00 ­ 120.00. From the

collection of Debi Reece.

125976

1941 Coro bird clips. These two 3½" x 2" unsigned clips are part of a Coro Duette that would only have been signed on the Duette frame. The design of these clips is similar to design patent number 126490 issued April 8, 1941, to Adolph Katz for Coro. The wear on the metal, the size of the clips, and the colorful enamel are all consistent with clips from this era. Without the frame, $75.00 ­ 100.00. With the frame, $150.00 ­ 200.00.

CORO AND VENDÔME JEWELRY

125979

1941 Coro unsigned bird brooches. All three of these bird brooches strongly resemble design patent number 126490 issued April 8, 1941, to Adolph Katz of Coro. This design patent is for a Duette, but once issued, Coro could have produced both pins and clips in various sizes using the same patented design. The first bird is a pin, not a clip, and measures 3½" long. The middle bird is also a pin, and measures 3¼". The last, 3" bird is a clip, and it is half of a Duette. Produced in the early 1940s, these bird brooches are plentiful in the collectible market today. $25.00 ­ 35.00 each.

From the collection of Debi Reece.

125984

126490

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· Coro and Vendôme Jewelry Gallery ·

1948 ­ 1955. When I first purchased this amazingly vibrant raspberry colored enamel Coro 1¾" pin and 1¼" x ¾" clip earrings I assumed by the style the set was from the 1960s or 1970s. However, all pieces are signed "Coro" without the copyright symbol indicating the set was made before 1955. (Coro continued to issue patents for jewelry designs through 1956; however, as a general rule, jewelry with a copyright symbol was produced after 1955.) The nonuse of sterling and the signature date this set to 1948 ­ 1955. $35.00 ­ 50.00.

1948 ­ 1955 Coro red and pink rhinestone earrings. These 1" x ½" sparkling clip earrings are interesting because of the tall, three-dimensional design, and the rare combination of red and pink rhinestones. They are signed "Coro" without the copyright symbol. This signature and the non use of sterling date these earrings to 1948 ­ 1955. $8.00 ­ 12.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

CORO AND VENDÔME JEWELRY

Coro 1948 ­ 1955 antique-gold-tone and blue rhinestone necklace and pin. This demi-parure features vibrant light blue rhinestones. It is signed "Coro" in script without the copyright symbol. The necklace measures 16" and the matching brooch measures 1¾". The signature, the style of necklace (an attractive center decoration attached to a plain chain), and the non use of sterling date this set to 1948 ­ 1955. $50.00 ­ 65.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

1950s Coro chunky charm bracelet. Coro produced many versions of chunky charm bracelets in the 1950's and 1960's. This Coro example measures 7½" and features fifteen chunky charms. It is signed "Coro" without copyright symbol. This signature and the non use of sterling date this bracelet to 1948 ­ 1955. This chunky charm bracelet is especially collectible because the green and red balls are Bakelite! $60.00 ­ 80.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

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· Trifari Jewelry Gallery ·

1956 Trifari Cordon D'or bracelet and earrings set. Amazingly beautiful and in mint condition, this 7¼" Trifari bracelet and matching ¾" clip earrings still have the original gold and black Trifari hangtags. All pieces are signed "Trifari" with the copyright symbol. This set is called "Cordon D'or" ("ribbon of gold") in the 1956 "Merry Christmas Jewels by Trifari" advertisement. The bracelet originally sold for $10.00 and the earrings for $7.50. The matching choker (not shown in the photograph) sold for $15.00. $50.00 ­ 65.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

TRIFARI JEWELRY

1956 Trifari Plume pin. Easy to find today, this 2" Trifari Plume pin is shown in the "Merry Christmas Jewels by Trifari" 1956 advertisement and originally sold for $3.00. It is signed "Trifari" with the copyright symbol. Today's value isn't much higher. $15.00 ­ 20.00.

1956 Trifari "Merry Christmas Jewels by Trifari" advertisement. With the jewelry pieces arranged in the shape of a pinwheel, this beautiful advertisement features 11 different jewelry groups. The spectacular center collar necklace called "Egret" originally sold for $35.00. The matching earrings sold for $10.00. The four pins shown and their original prices are Wreath, $7.50; Plume, $3.00; Autumn Leaves, $6.00; and Leaf, $15.00. The sets shown clockwise from the top left, and their original prices, are Cordon D'or collar, $15.00, with bracelet, $10.00, and earrings, $7.50; Queen Anne collar, $15.00, and bracelet, $15.00; Stonybrook collar, $7.50, and bracelet, $7.50; Rivulette collar, $7.50, and bracelet, $7.50; Wellesley collar, $5.00, and bracelet, $5.00; and Seaweave collar, $5.00, and bracelet, $4.00.

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·

avon ·

1987 Celia Sebiri­designed Avon pin. This unusual 2" x 1½" egg-shaped pin features a creamy pink stone surrounded by two coordinating colors of enamel. It is signed "CS for Avon." "CS" represents Celia Sebiri, who designed for Avon in 1987. $15.00 ­ 25.00. 1989 ­ 1996 Barerra for Avon brooch and earrings set. This royal-looking huge 3" x 2¼" fleur-de-lis brooch and the matching 2½" x 1¼" clip earrings are signed "Barerra for Avon." José Maria Barrera designed for Avon from 1989 to 1996. $45.00 ­ 65.00.

OTHER JEWELRY MAKERS

1989 ­ 1996 Barrera for Avon necklace and earrings set. This lovely lavender and pink 20" triple-strand necklace and matching 2" clip earrings are signed "Barrera for Avon." José Maria Barrera created designs for Avon from 1989 ­ 1996, dating this lovely set to that era. $35.00 ­ 50.00.

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·

carnegie, hattie ·

1948 ­ 1955 Hattie Carnegie fancy rhinestone and pearl brooch. This especially rich-looking 3" x 2¾" brooch is signed "Hattie Carnegie" without the copyright symbol. Imagine this magnificent brooch as the centerpiece of a hat or turban. The signature and nonuse of sterling date this brooch to 1948 ­ 1955. $125.00 ­ 175.00. From the collection

of Debi Reece.

1948 ­ 1955 Hattie Carnegie genie on a flying carpet brooch. This fabulous 2½" x 1¾" figural brooch is signed "Hattie Carnegie" without the copyright symbol and dates to 1948 ­ 1955. The design is well sculpted and amazingly well defined. The genie is beautifully decorated with blue rhinestones and turquoise seed pearls. $250.00 ­ 350.00. From the

collection of Debi Reece.

OTHER JEWELRY MAKERS

1955 ­ 1960s Hattie Carnegie donkey pin. This cute creature measures 2½" x 1¾" and is signed "Hattie Carnegie" with the copyright symbol. Creamy champagne pearls, orange beads, and light green rhinestones pop with color on the donkey's basket-weave body. The signature and japanned metal body date this piece to the late 1950s or early 1960s. $90.00 ­ 130.00.

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·

delizza & elster ·

1955 ­ 1970 blue rhinestone D & E style butterfly pin and earrings set. This attractive butterfly pin measures 2½". Each earring is 1½" long. Thick navette-shaped rhinestones were placed in open-backed settings to form the shape. Then blue and clear aurora borealis rhinestones were used to outline the charming butterfly design. $100.00 ­ 150.00.

1955 ­ 1970 D & E style long-stemmed flower pin and earrings set. This uniquely styled 3¼" x 1½" flower brooch and matching 1" earrings feature an unusual color palate. Included in the open-backed design are thick navette-shaped orange and citrine rhinestones coupled with red aurora borealis rhinestones. Art-glass beads enhance the interest and appeal of this beautiful set. $75.00 ­ 100.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

OTHER JEWELRY MAKERS

1955 ­ 1970 D & E style blue rivoli stone brooch and earrings set. This unmarked but spectacular 2¾" blue rivoli-stone brooch and matching 1" clip earrings feature navette-shaped rhinestones in open-backed settings. These are arranged in layers to produce an astoundingly bright and beautiful set. $100.00 ­ 125.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

1955 ­ 1970 D & E style green rhinestone brooch and earrings set. This gorgeous 2½" green rhinestone brooch and matching 1¼" clip earrings feature thick navette-shaped rhinestones in open-backed settings surrounded by clear aurora borealis rhinestones. Look closely at the earrings. A thin gold-tone wire with a clear aurora borealis rhinestone on top extends above the design. This type of three-dimensional construction is often found on D & E style jewelry. $70.00 ­ 90.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

300

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·

haskell, miriam ·

1950s ­ 1970s Miriam Haskell pink choker necklace. This 16" pretty pink Miriam Haskell necklace features three strands of yummy pink glass beads. Each bead is separated by two clear spacers. The typical Haskell-style hook is made of silver-tone metal and decorated with a characteristic Haskell hand-wired flower. The choker is signed "Miriam Haskell" on the hook. $150.00 ­ 250.00.

OTHER JEWELRY MAKERS

1950s ­ 1970s Miriam Haskell red glass beaded pin. Diminutive by Haskell standards, but lovely, this pin measures 1½" x 1". It is signed "Miriam Haskell" on the back. Note the way the deep red beads are nestled attractively in the antique-gold-tone petals. $100.00 ­ 150.00. From the collection of Debi Reece.

1950s ­ 1970s Miriam Haskell pearl and rhinestone brooch. This pretty 2¼" x 1¼" brooch features a smooth champagne center pearl surrounded by ambercolored aurora borealis rhinestones. The brooch is signed "Miriam Haskell" on an oval plaque. $75.00 ­ 95.00.

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