Read Adina Formulate 2006 text version


N OV E M B E R 2006

Adina: Stand no. 219 Adina looks forward to seeing you on stand # 219 where we will be featuring new and innovative ingredients, including:





ALL-QTM Plus from -GelTM is a new multifunctional active hydrogel DSM Nutritional Prodfrom Arch personal Care, delivering rheology conucts is a specially detrol with advanced moisturisation and outstanding signed combination of feel. Moisturisation is achieved via a dual mechaTM plus Optimised CoAll-Q Coenzyme Q10 and nism of action. -GelTM releases hydrated glycerin enzyme Q10 blend. Vitamin E acetate. during application of the product to the skin, resultBeta-GelTM Active Multifuctional ing in instant dryness relief. Betaine molecules are ALL-QTMPlus-- Hydrogel. then released from the polymer backbone which antioxidant function Biodynes® O3 Ozone pollution migrate to the skin offering longer lasting moisturIn-vivo studies with co-enzyme Q10 show signifiprotector. ising benefits. In addition, it also stimulates cellular cantly lower levels of skin damage compared to ATP production and collagen production which CIC 2 Skin-lightening, brighten- those volunteers that used a placebo cream. enhances the structural integrity and elasticity of ing, and healing marine plant the skin, and improves the strength of hair. active from patented technology. Protection against lipid peroxidation An additional in-vivo study on human volunteers -GelTM Key Product Attributes: Covacryl MV60 Gelling agent clearly demonstrated that that ALL-QTM Plus was Superior Moisturising Hydrogel for a unique powdery-fresh skin effective in inhibiting the UV photo-oxidation of feel. - Instant Dryness Relief skin surface protective lipids. Covalumine Pigments Novel - Prolonged Moisturization Reducing the effects of photoaging matte-pearl pigments for natural Eye wrinkles (crow's-feet) were significantly reNonNon-sticky during and after application "skin-glow" colour effects. duced by 27% with a cream containing 0.3% Co- Enhances Viscosity and Formulation Stability HydrillienTM 9 Unique gelling enzyme Q10 that was applied for six months. Fur- Promotes Collagen Synthesis, and emulsifying agent. Stimulates Cellular ATP Production, thermore, the corneocyte size, which normally Inutec® SP1 Naturally derived Strengthens Hair Fibers increases with age was reduced. and highly efficient o/w emulsifier. BIODYNES® O3 L.O. Extract® Effective antiinflammatory and protective Biodynes® O3 offers one of the first, scientifically- trans-epidermal water loss and enhancing skin ingredient from marine algae. moisturization, and reducing AGE formation. designed, topically applied defences against ozone, which is rapidly becoming a well recogParsol®TX For superior SPF Biodynes® O3 allows a formulator to literally "dial performance and product stabil- nized threat against skin health, aging and well in" a factor of ozone protection (OPF) into their ity. being. product depending on anticipated exposure times SoothexTM Effective soothing that the consumer may need the protection. Urban Ozone Pollution and calming from Boswellia Anticipated Ozone Protection Factor for various conSerrata.

centrations of Biodynes® O3

Soy-Yogurtene Non-GMO soya yoghurt powder for personal care. Viscup® EZ Effective, easy-touse viscosity builder with wide pH tolerance. Zeniwax® Butters A range of novel moisturising butters from the purest ingredients. A new & novel antiageing ingredient will be launched at Formulate 2006


Medium Low


Studies confirm that Biodynes® O3 is effective at protecting fragile cellular nucleic acids, including nuclear and mitochondrial DNA and RNA, and skin lipids, critical for proper functioning of the skin's lipid structure, from the detrimental effects of ozone. In vitro studies also confirm Biodynes® O3 prevents the formation of Advanced Glycation Endproducts (AGE) as effectively as green tea and vitamin C. In vivo clinical studies substantiate the use of Biodynes® O3 as an active ingredient affording antiwrinkle, skin firming claims as well as reducing


Percentage Biodynes® O3

Biodynes® O3 can help assure the consumer that they are receiving steps towards proper care and safeguards for the skin from harmful effects of the environment; it truly is the pollution solution!

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Covacryl MV60 is a new addition to the line of Covacryl acrylic copolymers from LCW Sensient . Covacryl MV60 is a thickener that creates unique textures that range from "mousse" to "marshmallow" when used in aqueous systems. Recommended applications include:

CIC 2 from Biotechmarine is derived from Criste marine (Sea fennel) and is the first product produced using their patented stem cell technology. Stem cells contain all the vital components and youthful vitality necessary for it to grow into the whole plant. CIC 2 is designed to address the problems associated with ageing skin and can proCriste Marine (sea fennel). vide the following skin benefits:

Water-based mousse: A Covacryl MV60 gel

combined with Unipure LC or hydrophobic pigments and powders, (preferably hydrophobic) gives a mousse-like texture with a smooth, soft and velvety application on the skin. Water is encapsulated in Covacryl MV60 and imparts a long lasting fresh skin feel. Fresh Illuminator Mousse TW1679 O/W skin care creams: Addition of 0.5% to 1.5% of Covacryl MV60 changes the texture of O/W skin care creams giving a fresh feel on application and leaves a non-sticky, matt and powdery film on the skin. Powdery semi-transparent gels: Covacryl MV60 swells in water. This gel has a very powdery skin feel as if it was a blend of microscopic sponges. A cleansing gel containing 1% to 1.5% of Covacryl MV60 can be used directly on dry skin. A cleansing gel containing 4% to 5% of Covacryl MV60 is recommend for use on wet skin and doesn't break during application.

· · · · · ·


Reduces pigmentary disorders. Improves skin healing and repair. Stimulates the ECM components of the skin. Enhances skin cohesion and cell communication. Brightens the complexion of the skin. Normalises skin metabolism. Offers free-radical protection.




Covalumine Pigments from LCW Sensient offer an exceptional balance of colour and transparency with a hint of pearlescence. They can be considered as "matte-pearl" pigments which means that the mass tone has a matte appearance, yet they provide a burnished and subtle pearlescent appearance when applied onto the skin. Patent-pending and globally accepted, they provide a luxuriously soft feel to applications and finish to a satiny appearance giving the impression of a natural "skin glow". Covalumine pigments can be dispersed, in most systems, without the need of excessive milling associated with traditional pigments, and they enhance the visibility of pearls. Covalumine pigments comprise of organic and mineral pigments bonded to a platelet alumina substrate. The particles are then hydrophobically treated with alkyl silane. All the organic and mineral pigments used in the Covalumine range are from Sensient LCW's UNIPURE range to ensure excellent colour reproducibility and the highest purity. The AS treatment also enhances dispersion during processing (no milling or grinding necessary!), improves skin adhesion and water resistance, and product stability. Summary: · Balance of colour & transparency for a "natural skin glow" · Unique multiple reflections when used with Covapearls · Consistent colour and high purity · Incredibly smooth soft skin feel · Easy to process/disperse · Globally approved Hydrophilic "AQ" treated Covalumines available soon.

HydrillienTM9 is a unique polymeric associative thickener and emulsion stabilizer which imparts an elegant feel to personal care and cosmetic formulations. It reduces tackiness and drag caused by other ingredients, leaving a pleasant, natural, silky after-feel. When applied to the skin from a gel or emulsion, HydrillienTM9 forms a thin continuous water-resistant film. The polymer chain consists of alternating hydrophobic "hard blocks" and hydrophilic "soft blocks". The hard blocks form associations with each other in aqueous solutions while the soft blocks are hydrated with water. This results in a three-dimensional network forming a hydrogel. (See figure 1)

Figure 1.

Increasing shear or temperature causes a disassociation of the hard blocks resulting in a decrease in viscosity of the gels or emulsions (pseudoplastic behavior). Upon removal of the shear or lowering of the temperature, the viscosity immediately returns to its former state. HydrillienTM9 is an emulsion stabilizer with the ability to stabilize oil/water emulsions with high oil content. In most cases HydrillienTM9 can be used as the sole stabilizer of emulsions, with no need to add other emulsifiers. HydrillienTM9 is easy to formulate with. It is offered as gel particles containing approximately 20% solids that swell and dissolve readily with stirring and heat. No neutralization or special wetting agents are required.

Product News

November 2006

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INUTEC®SP1 is a naturally derived inulin-based o/w emulsifier from Orafti, and is the first of a patent protected class of inulin-based polymeric surfactants which can significantly improve formulations based on oil-in-water emulsion or aqueous dispersion systems. Inulin is a storage carbohydrate found in many plants. It has formed part of the daily diet for humans for some centuries as it is found naturally in many vegetables, fruits and cereals. After starch, inulin is the most abundant non-structural polysaccharide found in nature. With INUTEC®SP1 it is possible to prepare stable cosmetic emulsions, from sprayables to butter-like viscosity creams, with a light, non-sticky and natural skin feel. The benefits of INUTEC®SP1 can be summarised as follows: · 100% naturally derived & ethoxylatefree · Highly efficient & cost effective · Light, soft skin-feel Chicory root: · High salt tolerance a source of inulin · Cold processing capability · No viscosity impact (ideal for sprayable emulsions) · Excellent compatibility

L.O. Extract® from Biotechmarine is a specific extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, a brown algae also called the "golden seaweed". L.O. Extract® is designed to offer outstanding antiinflammatory performance and help to protect against many of the signs of Laminaria ochroleuca cutaneous ageing. Extensive testing (including in-vivo) of L.O. Extract® demonstrates the following properties:

· · · · · · · · Reduction of UV-induced inflammatory mediators. Reduces DNA damage caused by UV light Reduces the appearance of sunburned cells Stimulates collagen snynthesis Stimulates GAG synthesis (for firmer, plumper skin) Enhances skin hydration Decreases wrinkles (2% in-vivo) Increses skin smoothness, moisture, & firmness (2% in-vivo)

L.O. Extract® is supplied as a convenient liquid, is free from preservatives and glycol solvents, and is Ecocert approved.




BMDBM (e.g. Parsol® 1789) is an effective UV-A filter and TiO2 is commonly used in combination with BMDBM in suncare and daycare in Europe and Asia Pacific. Aluminium salt is one of the most common coating materials for TiO2 and as a result, a BMDBM -Al 3+ complex can form. This reduces the amount of free BMDBM in the formulation. The consequences of this complex reaction are lower UV-A protection ratings than claimed. The answer to this problem is Parsol® TX from DSM. Parsol® TX is micronised TiO2 that is coated with un-reactive silica and then surface-treated with highly hydrophobic dimethicone. Not only is Parsol® TX un-reactive towards BMDBM, but it also has other benefits over competitive TiO2 materials tested by DSM. These benefits can be summarised as follows: · Higher UV absobance. · Higher SPF contribution (in-vivo) · Chemically un-reactive (no discolouration or reactions) · High photo-stability · Easily dispersed in oil phase (due to dimethicone treatment) · Superior skin transparency (see below)

TiO2 at 5%, dispersed in Caprylic/CapricTriglycerides on black background

Competitor "A" TiO2 and Trimethoxycaprylylsilane

Competitor "B" TiO2 and Aluminium hydroxide and stearic acid

Competitor "C" TiO2 and silica


SoothexTM from Quest is an extract of Boswellia Serrata a large tree found in mountainous regions of India. It is a plant well known in Indian Ayurvedic medicine for its calming, soothing and anti-irritant properties. Other members of the Boswellia family are found throughout North Africa and various parts of Asia, where they are harvested for their latex, which is dried to form frankincense. A portion of the bark is stripped away from the stem, Figure 1 and the milky gum then flows out and solidifies on the branches as `tears' or solid nuggets. (See figure 1.) The "active" components in SoothexTM are boswellic acids, which are well documented in their ability to inhibit 5-lipoxygenase enzyme, a key enzyme in the arachidonic acid inflammatory cascade mechanism. Efficacy studies with SoothexTM clearly demonstrate that it is highly effective at reducing irritation and redness and therefore is ideal for use in aggressive treatments such as depilatories. Irritation from other "chemicals" such as anti-perspirants, anti-acne preparations (e.g. benzoyl peroxide) surfactants, etc. can also be countered by the inclusion of SoothexTM into the formulation. It is useful even in daily "sensitive-skin" regimes. SoothexTM is easy to incorporate into the oil phase of emulsions, or will stir into most surfactant formulations. It is stable to heat, light, and extremes of pH, making it suitable for all types of personal care formulations. Recommended use levels are from 0.5% to 3% depending on the end user application. Boswellia serrata extracts have been used for thousands of years, and much is known about its composition and safety. It is cleared for use in most countries, including the EU, US,


Adina Cosmetic Ingredients E-mail: [email protected] Tel: 01892 517585 www.

elcome to "Product News", featuring a selection of exciting new ingredients that Adina will be promoting at the SCS Formulate 2006 event on 28th & 29th of November 2006. We do hope that you will be attending the show this year and that you will call on stand 219 to meet the Adina team. Full details on our extensive range are provided on our web site John Darbyshire. Sales Director.



Representing: Arch Personal Care. An innovative Company specialising in efficacious ingredients to meet market demands.

Yogurtene from Quest is a spray dried yoghurt powder composed of minerals, vitamins, & lipids, plus moisturising lactose. The beneficial skin and hair care properties afforded by Yogurtene has led to its world-wide use in numerous personal care applications. Following the success of Yogurtene, Quest has launched Soy-Yogurtene, a pure non-GMO spray-dried soya yoghurt, providing all the nutritional benefits of soya in an easy-to-use format. Soy-Yogurtene has a very similar composition to Yogurtene and therefore provides similar cosmetic benefits. Furthermore it can be used in products where dairy products are not desired (e.g. vegan requirements) SoyYogurtene: Cosmetic Benefits of Soy-Yogurtene & Yogurtene Biotechmarine. · Specialists in skin and Skin moisturising hair care actives from · Enhances creaminess and feel of lather marine algae. · Contributes to hair softness · Enhances hair curl retention DSM Nutritional · Helps prevent hair colour fade Products.

World leaders in Vitamins & UV filters. Huwell Chemicals. Leaders in powder bleach technology.


ViscUp® EZ was developed by Arch Personal Care Products specifically for cosmetic and personal care applications. It is an anionic acrylic polymer dispersed in an emollient and is typically used to thicken aqueous solutions and to stabilize O/W emulsions. Designed for high efficiency and fast viscosity building, both formulators and manufacturers will appreciate how easy it is to use and how effectively it works. In skin care formulations it has a smooth, LCW Sensient Tech- silky feel without any tackiness. Key Product Attributes pH Response include: nologies. 3% polymer Specialists in colours, · Stable between pH 2-11 pigments & active 140000 · Ease of use: No neutralization, homogenization or 120000 ingredients. pre-dispersion required ViscUp® EZ 100000 Competitive Product A 80000 · No preliminary swelling required 60000 Lipo Chemicals & 40000 Lipo Technologies. · Acrylamide-free 20000 · Emulsifying properties A major worldwide 0 supplier of speciality · Cold processing and post emulsification addition 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 chemicals and encappH · Thickening and stabilizing agent for O/W applications Spindle # 95, 10 RPM for pH 3 and pH 5 for Vis cUp® EZ sulation technologies. Spindle # 6, 10 RPM for pH 2 and pH 7 - pH 12 Brookfield DV-I+ · Excellent aesthetics - Light texture with non tacky, non greasy feel

Orafti & Gova. Novel natural emulsifiers, conditioners, and tan enhancers.


Technologies from Zenitech® allows them to react together high purity natural oils and waxes to produce a range of unique skin care ingredients that collectively are sold under their Zeniwax® technology platform. All waxes used in the manufacturing process are USP quality and 100% pure and all the oils derived from fruit and nuts are cold pressed to retain naturally occurring antioxidant and other attributes. Their reaction together forms a product that melts at body temperature, has superb barrier qualities, outstanding skin feel, and excellent emolliency. Using this technology, Zenitech® has introduced a new range of butters including:

Quest International. For natural and unique speciality ingredients. Zenitech.® Unique naturally derived functional polymers for hair & skin care..

Viscosity /cps @ RT

· · · · ·

Lemon Butter Lime Butter Blackcurrant Butter Watermelon Butter Moringa Butter

Other butters include: Raspberry, Cranberry, and Carnauba.


Adina Formulate 2006

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