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Food & Nutrition

Karla Sluis, Design Coordinator

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Wednesday,April 26, 2006

Tall

Durango Doughworks gives sweet treats a makeover with organic ingredients

By Karla Sluis

Herald Staff Writer

nibbles

YODIT GIDEY/ Herald

order

first taste

New food products are reviewed after a taste test by the Herald staff Coke Blak: It's Coke with coffee, double the caffeine, and half the calories. The latest Coke product is a "carbonated fusion beverage" and an attempt to fuse two lucrative consumer groups: sophisticated coffeehouse loungers and "extreme" energy-drink hipsters. Around 20 Herald staffers were brave enough to test the marketing promise: "Every sip is an experience to enliven your senses and welcome new possibilities." It was an experience that was not welcome for the majority of tasters. "Is it pronounced Coke Bleech?" "No, that's what you say afterward." Many complained about the aftertaste, a blend of bitter coffee and artificial sweetener. One said it tasted "like Coke from a dirty coffee mug." The fusion concept was the second turnoff. Coke purists were horrified (the most polite said it was "an acquired taste") and the newsroom's many diehard coffee drinkers made the classic 5-yearold "yuck" face. A handful of people liked it, comparing the flavor to a coke float, chocolate and dark beer. One said it would be much improved with vodka or rum on ice. Coke Blak is $4.99 for four 8-ounce bottles at south City Market this week. Check out Coke Blak's snazzy Web site: www.coca-colablak.com. To submit a new food product for a Herald taste test and a review, call 375-4550.

­ Karla Sluis

ylan Norton, owner of Durango Doughworks, was formerly in the news as a passionate critic of the Animas-La Plata Project. He argued about the environmental impact and the cost. Today, instead of finding holes in the massive water project, he is content with making doughnut holes. Still, there is always an A-LP metaphor available. "You could fill the reservoir up with my doughnuts and it would cost as much," he said. Durango Doughworks, located on north Main Avenue across from Durango High School, offers handmade doughnuts and bagels along with a breakfast and lunch menu. Its mission statement includes preserving the environment and supporting the local economy by using natural and organic ingredients "whenever possible" from Colorado suppliers. This mission is a change from Daylight Doughnuts, a franchise shop formerly located in the same space. Norton, a former painting contractor in Durango, bought Daylight Doughnuts in September and learned the baking trade from scratch from the former owners. "But I wasn't happy with their products," he said. "They used beef shortening in their doughnuts. That would be a bad surprise for someone who's vegetarian." Norton was attracted to the business because he remembered fresh bagels from his native New York. And he feels strongly that classic doughnuts should be fresh. "Doughnuts are an American institution. But they've been taken over by big chains like Wal-Mart and Albertsons. Storebought just doesn't taste the same." He rebranded the franchise as a local café and opened as Durango Doughworks in December. The environmental focus was an important part of the marketing, Norton said, but he doesn't want to mislead people. The bagels are organic, but the doughnuts are not. The raised doughnuts include organic flour from Rocky Mountain Milling, but the finished product does not meet the 95 percent ingredient criteria to be called organic.

D

See Doughworks, 2C

AL GRILLO/AP

YODIT GIDEY/Herald

Durango Doughworks bagels and doughnuts are made with organic Colorado flour.

Marge Andrews mixes ingredients to make akutaq, or Eskimo ice cream, at the Alaska Native Heritage Center in Anchorage, Alaska, on April 7. Andrews is using honey, assorted berries and shortening for this local dessert.

If you go

YODIT GIDEY/Herald

Dylan and Katiulka Norton celebrated a new baby and a new business in the same month ­ December 2005. Serena, 4 months old, is often at Durango Doughworks with her parents. She sleeps a lot, Norton said, and enjoys watching the action in the kitchen.

Durango Doughworks is located at 2411 Main Ave. It offers fresh bagels and doughnuts, plus burritos, sandwiches and salads for lunch. Individual doughnuts cost between 70 cents and $1.62; a dozen is $6 to $9. Single bagels cost 85 cents and a dozen is $9. Burritos are

between $3 and $4. Sandwiches range from $5 to $6.25.The café serves local Desert Sun coffee and bottled drinks. It's open Monday through Saturday from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Deliveries are available for orders over $20. Call 247-1610.

odd edibles

Unusual trends and products for the adventurous eater To urban taste buds, it might seem pretty gross: whipped fat mixed with berries, with optional additions such as fish and sugar. To Marge Andrews, it's a Native delicacy cherished since her youth in rural Alaska. "There's nothing like it in the world," she says of akutaq, better known to nonNatives as Eskimo ice cream. Akutaq, pronounced ah-GOO-duck, conjures up memories of festivals and celebrations in the western Alaska villages of St. Michael and Stebbins, where Andrews spent much of her childhood living off the land and sea just as her Yup'ik and Inupiaq ancestors had. While traditional ingredients such as reindeer fat, seal oil and boiled fish are still used, contemporary recipes may consist of shortening, berries and sweetener. Think of it as berries and frosting, heavy on the berries. No one knows who invented akutaq or how long ago, although Andrews wouldn't be surprised if its roots go back to ancient times. Considered a high energy food, it's been made in some form longer than anyone can remember, said her heritage center colleague June Martin. "Probably to supplement a heavy meat diet, people added berries," said Martin, 47, who spent her early years in Savoonga, a Siberian Yupik village on Saint Lawrence Island in the Bering Sea.

­ Rachel D'Oro, Associated Press

Ouray's Bon Ton offers contrasts

By Karen Brucoli Anesi

Bon Ton Restaurant

A walk through history with classical delights such as Grilled Delmonico Steak, Beef Wellington,Veal Piccata, Seafood,Angus beef, Italian favorites, extensive wine list.

Also on the plate: Out of the ordinary appetizers such as Escargots & Crawfish Tails and sea scallops with champagne cream in puff pastry. The Bon Ton opens at 5:30 p.m., seven nights a week. Sunday brunch is from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. Reservations are recommended.All major credit cards are accepted.A 20 percent service charge on parties of 8 or more. Splitting entrées is an additional $6. Open year round.

Text by Karen Brucoli Anesi HERALD

Special to the Herald

Ouray's Bon Ton Restaurant at 426 Main Street calls itself "upscale, casual ... with an Italian flair." This Ouray landmark associated with the St. Elmo Hotel is just as charming as the Victorian style inn it serves. It has an extensive menu and wine list and a reputation for interesting cuisine at moderate prices. The Sunday night I visited, it was a study in culinary contrasts. There are few appetizers that get my attention more than Prince Edward Island mussels steamed with butter, white wine and garlic. Mussels Vino Bianchi ($10) easily could have been an entrée. This generously sized bowl of succulent mollusks was fragrant with garlic, herbs, butter and a wine essence perfect for dipping chunks of crusty bread. Add the Bon Ton's Caesar salad ­ loaded with a lemony, anchovy-rich dressing ­

and the two dishes would have made for a satisfying dinner. Whether the mussels were just too tough to beat or the two entrées I later sampled were not living up to their reputation, nothing that followed this stellar start impressed me. My dining partner and I split the terrific appetizer, then followed the recommendation of the server and ordered one fish entrée from the Chef 's Selection: Broiled Stuffed Halibut ($27) and one of the Bon Ton Specialties: Beef Wellington. ($35) The fresh Alaskan halibut was to have been "stuffed with crabmeat and Brie cheese and served with artichoke saffron cream." Lots of intense flavors in that description and all of them are favorites of mine. Yet not one was recognizable. Artichokes were either minced so finely that they were non-recognizable or they were absent. The sauce boasted the rich color of saffron,

but none of the flavor. The fish was indeed fresh and mild, but what a letdown from the mouth-watering description. It was like expecting a sharp wedge of Stilton, then biting into a slice of Kraft American. An unimpressive rice blend and overcooked broccoli completed the fare. The Beef Wellington, grilled Angus beef tenderloin, wrapped in pastry, took a left turn from the traditional foie gras and mushroom duxelles tucked beneath paté pastry. This tenderloin was topnotch and cooked exactly to order. The tasty spinach mushroom paté complemented the beef and surprisingly did not steam the tenderloin or make the pastry soggy. Too bad the dish was not served with a Béarnaise, Colbert or Madeira sauce. Instead, the Bordelaise was generous and overpowering, a redwine and thyme assault to the senses,

See Bon Ton, 2C

Page 2C Wednesday,April 26, 2006

Food & Nutrition

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· · · · Aspen Trails subdivision Just under one acre National Forest a few 100 ft. away Survey completed, septic permit approved

Quick cooking: Try a chicken sandwich

By J.M. Hirsch

Associated Press Writer

Honey Mustard Breaded Chicken Sandwich

(Start to finish 30 minutes) ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ½ cup plain bread crumbs 1 boneless, skinless chicken breast 1 cup honey mustard 2 tablespoons canola oil ¼ cup chicken broth 1 teaspoon cornstarch 2 sourdough rolls 4 medium Boston lettuce leaves 1 medium tomato, sliced Bread and butter pickle slices Preheat oven to 200 F. In a shallow bowl, mix the flour, salt, pepper and paprika. Place the bread crumbs in a second shallow bowl. Set meat tenderizer or (in my case) rolling pin leaves you with a flat, thin, tender piece of chicken that cooks in minutes. Just be careful ­ too much bashing obliterates the meat. For flavor, I considered marinating but decided it would take too long. My solution was to substitute honey mustard for the egg normally used as the glue to hold the bread crumb coating. Once my cutlets were dredged and coated, next came cooking. Baking appealed to me both aside. Carefully cut the chicken breast in half horizontally. Place each half between two sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet or rolling pin, gently pound each breast until evenly flattened. Unwrap the breasts and dredge each through the flour mixture to evenly coat both sides. Place the halves on a plate. Using a pastry brush or large spoon, coat both sides of each cutlet with mustard. Set aside remaining mustard. Dredge each cutlet through the bread crumbs to evenly coat both sides. Heat the oil in a large skillet over a medium-high flame. Place both cutlets in the skillet and cook for 4 minutes, or for health and convenience, but I ultimately settled on skillet frying with just a touch of oil to get a better crisp. The resulting chicken was delicious. But the honey mustard wasn't as assertive as I'd hoped. The solution? After the chicken was cooked, I deglazed the pan with a bit of chicken broth and more mustard, then drizzled the resulting sauce over the sandwich. With my chicken sussed out, the rest was easy. I passed on until lightly browned. Flip the cutlets and cook an additional 3 minutes, or until cooked through and crisp. Transfer the cutlets to an ovenproof plate and place in the oven to keep warm. Return the skillet to the burner. In a small bowl, whisk together remaining mustard, chicken broth and cornstarch, then add to skillet. Bring to a simmer, whisking constantly, and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. To assemble the sandwiches, place two lettuce leaves and half the tomato slices on each bun, then top with a chicken cutlet. Drizzle the chicken with the skillet sauce, then top with pickles. Serve immediately. Makes 2 sandwiches. that flavorless white garbage sold as burger rolls at most grocers and instead went with a hearty wheat roll that was crusty outside and tender inside, much like my chicken. To complement my chicken, I added a bed of crisp lettuce, slices of tomato and bread and butter pickles. It was amazing. If you're looking for even more gusto, top the chicken with crumbled blue cheese and slices of raw red onion.

MLS#562676 $60,000

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Volunteers are needed to help staff the Visitor Center at the Fish Hatchery from late May to early September. Volunteers typically put in a day every two weeks from 10am to 4:30pm. To find out more about these opportunities, contact Derek Snyder (382-3810). And don't forget, the Visitor Center is open June, July and August, so come check out our newly remodeled displays.

CONCORD, N.H. ­ Imagine a fast-food chicken cutlet sandwich. Now imagine a good chicken cutlet sandwich. A crusty bun, crisp green lettuce, slabs of juicy tomato, tart-and-sweet pickles, a rich mustard sauce, and real breaded chicken (no poultry pieces, thank you so much) fried crisp outside and tender inside. That's what I wanted. And I wanted it at home. So I started playing. First with the chicken. Besides crispy and tender, I wanted this chicken to be moist and intensely flavorful with sweet and savory undertones. And, of course, it had to be quick. Boneless, skinless chicken breasts made the most sense. Breasts are juicy, but have virtually no fat. Trouble is, they often are a little too thick to sit comfortably on a sandwich. That thickness also means they would take too long to cook. So I cut them in half, then I bashed them. Some people prefer to call it tenderizing or flattening. Whatever you call it, it works. Placing each half breast between sheets of plastic wrap and pounding it with a mallet,

31007451

Garlic pork an easy, authentic-tasting dish

(AP) ­ Chinese takeout is a favorite way to eat. Tasty ­ and easier than cooking at home, we think. Not necessarily so, say Leeann and Katie Chin, a mother and daughter team, who run a catering company based in Los Angeles. They present a convincing case for doing it yourself, in your own kitchen. In a feature in the April issue of Cooking Light magazine, they offer a series of recipes for creating simple, authentic-tasting dishes easily ­ even without a wok. Here's one to try that's full of flavor and low in fat.

Garlic Pork With Tomato and Basil

12 ounces pork tenderloin, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons cornstarch ¼ teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 3 tablespoons cold water 2 tablespoons oyster sauce 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon Sriracha (hot chili sauce) 2 teaspoons peanut oil 2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic 2 cups chopped seeded plum tomatoes (about 3 tomatoes) ¾ cup chopped fresh basil ¼ cup chopped green onions (about 2 onions) 2 cups hot cooked brown rice Combine pork, 1 teaspoon cornstarch, salt and pepper in a small bowl, tossing to coat. Combine water, oyster sauce, sugar, Sriracha and remaining 1 teaspoon cornstarch in a small bowl. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.Add minced garlic and pork mixture; saute 3 minutes or until the pork is done.Add chopped tomatoes; saute 1 minute. Add cornstarch mixture; cook 1 minute or until thickened.Add basil; stir to combine. Remove from heat, and sprinkle with onions. Serve with brown rice. Makes 4 servings (serving size 1 cup pork mixture and ½ cup rice). Nutrition information per serving: 257 cal., 6.2 g total fat (1.6 g saturated), 21.2 g pro., 28.5 g carbo., 2.9 g fiber, 55 mg chol., 294 mg sodium.

Doughworks: Café is small and busy with cafeteria style interior

Continued from 1C

"Some organic products are really hard to find, such as sugar and yeast. The flour company that we finally found costs twice as much, but it's worth it. I don't want to support big agribusiness. I want to build community." The food is prepared by hand every day ­ beginning at 2 a.m. ­ with the help of two bakers and one burrito maker. The bagels take two days to make in a labor-intensive process. Unlike store-bought varieties, the they are allowed to set up overnight. "It gives them a lighter texture and lets the yeast action develop longer for a better flavor." They make plain, poppy seed, sesame and "everything" bagels, and offer six cream cheese flavors. The doughnuts are classic: buttermilk, raised glazed, twists and chocolate iced. There are a handful of deluxe varieties, such as oldfashioned sour cream, bismark and pinecones. Norton's favorite doughnut is the raspberry cake, and his favorite bagel is "everything." The café is small and busy, with a simple cafeteria-style interior. The location across from the high school brings a stream of students, especially at lunchtime, Norton said. But the customers are diverse. "We get the granola types who want organic, and the grannies who want good, oldfashioned doughnuts." Norton, with his thin frame, said people shouldn't feel guilty about eating doughnuts and bagels. "It's all about moderation. I don't recommend gorging on a whole box by yourself, but if you exercise regularly, a few doughnuts a week won't hurt you."

31006576

formerly Café Sarie

Dim Sum

Night

Dim SUm is a Chinese delicacy--little appetizers often served out of bamboo steamers. Over 30 items to choose from! Also offering Sake, Plum Wine & Tsing Tao Beer

Don't forget...

Bon Ton: Offers a dozen pasta entrées ranging from $11 to $25

Continued from 1C

rather than a delicate addition to a classic favorite. Sauces are what separate the great meals from the good meals, and chefs who can consistently turn out quality sauces are few and far between. There are too many variables that come into play. The gods were not smiling favorably on the Bon Ton's sauce master on this particular night. Salads, which accompanied both entrées, were another story. The Caesar is traditional; the Bon Ton Salad of mixed greens, sunflower and gorgonzola is signature. I recall having the same salad 10 years ago. What's new is the creamy parmesan dressing. Diners choose between it and the balsamic vinaigrette. Both dressings are good. The Bon Ton offers a dozen pasta entrées ranging from $11 to $25, including cannelloni made with veal, prosciutto, spinach and ricotta, baked in béchamel and marinara sauces. Tortellini Carbonara is stuffed with veal, chicken, pork and mortadella, tossed in a sauce of bacon, shallots, marinara sauce, basil, garlic, cream and parmesan cheese. Service at the Bon Ton is accommodating and the wait staff is friendly and knowledgeable. Three dining rooms offer a variety of non-smoking seating opportunities, from dimly lit intimate tables to family-sized booths to the sunny, floral Rose Room. Outdoor, patio seating is available during summer months. After-Dinner Oral Delights include such popular enticers as the Black Nasty, ($6) a flourless, chocolate fudge pie with a graham cracker crust and whipped cream. Chef Tim Eihausen compares it to chocolate Bavarian, a dense, rich chocolate classic. I did not try a dessert, but when I return, I'll take the chef 's recommendation and order the bread pudding served with a bourbon hard sauce ($6). Eihausen is a New Orleans transplant who has been cooking for the Bon Ton since 1993. He says the bread pudding is a winner. Locals appreciate the fact that you can count on the Bon Ton to throw its doors open for Sunday brunch every weekend of the year, regardless of how many or how few tourists are in town. Prices range from $10 to $14 per plate, depending on the entrée choice. Each includes a brunch salad, orange juice, coffee or tea and champagne. Among the choices are Eggs Bon Ton, an English muffin with grilled salmon, spinach and Béarnaise. Other popular choices are the steak and eggs or the brunch burrito made of chorizo, black beans, eggs and cheddar. Children can appreciate the choices on their menu that reach past the expected spaghetti and meatballs: ravioli ($6), grilled chicken ($6), fettucini with Alfredo sauce ($6) and lasagna ($6). Karen Brucoli Anesi is a 25-year Durango resident who cooks, gardens and eats well. She writes her stories - and prefers her dishes with more than a grain of salt. Reach her at [email protected]

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