Read BELGRADE HISTORY text version

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WELCOME TO BELGRADE!

A packet of information for newcomers provided by the International School of Belgrade Parent-Teacher Association (PTA) August 2009

2 The ISB Parent Teacher Association (PTA) would like to welcome you to school and to Belgrade! We hope you enjoy your time here and that we can help you feel at home. The PTA is an organization of the school which helps build the school community, bringing students, teachers, parents, and staff together through a number of events and activities throughout the year. We have an exciting schedule for the 2009 ­ 2010 school year, and we hope you will mark your calendars now with this years PTASponsored events and plan to participate. August 29, 2009 October 3rd October 30th December 18th January 30th March 27th May 8th June 5th June 9th Welcome Back to School Picnic PTA Book Fair Harvest & Halloween Party Lower School Visit by Santa PTA Music Recital Easter Family Picnic Spring Fair Garage Fair Staff Appreciation Day

All ISB parents and teachers are automatically members of the PTA, but we elect an Executive Committee (EC), which meets monthly to plan activities. All parents and teachers are welcome to attend any meetings to help out, to offer suggestions, or simply to become more informed about our activities. Highlights from all PTA Meetings and the "PTA Corner" containing PTA news are sent to parents and teachers via the Dragon Dispatch school newsletters and are posted online on the ISB PTA webpage: http://www.isb.rs/about_isb/pta.html. The EC consists of 10 parent representatives from all three campuses, plus 1 Lower School and 1 Middle School/High School teacher representative. Up to seven of the 10 EC members are elected in the spring for the following school year, and at least three positions are held open for election at the annual PTA wine and cheese reception in September to allow new parents and teachers to join and to get involved. In addition to the activities mentioned above, the PTA recruits and supports room parents for every class in the Lower School & Middle School (with High School parent grade reps, as well). Room parents assist teachers in involving the parents with in-class parties, off-campus field trips, and any other activities they agree on, including coffee get-togethers for parents, class picnics, school dances, class photos, or parties outside of school hours. The PTA also recruits language representatives, who aid communication between parents and the school by relaying information to other parents in his/her language group. If you would like to receive school information in your native language & to find out who your language representative is, contact Admissions Officer, Sanja Ilic, at the Lower School: 011/206-9999 or at [email protected] . If you would like to volunteer to be a representative for your native language, please contact her as well to add your name and contact information to the list of language representative volunteers in the Admissions Office at the Lower School. Please remember that if you would like to get involved in any way with PTA, as an

3 Executive Committee member, a room parent, a language representative, or a volunteer for a specific event, or if you have any questions at all, we encourage you to contact us at any time on the PTA email address: [email protected] . Also, please visit our PTA page on ISBs website for all the details of our organization: http://www.isb.rs/about_isb/pta.html. We know what its like to be new at a school. If you have a question about something, dont hesitate to ask. Well answer you right away or find out the answer for you as soon as possible! We hope that the following guide will serve as a good resource for you during your time at ISB and in Belgrade. One note to remember: things change in Belgrade ­ sometimes without warning - and weve found that websites may not always have 100% accurate information. Its always a good idea to call ahead to places before planning an outing. Our hope is that this will be a living document. We encourage you please to email [email protected] or contact Ms. Mia Dedic at the Lower School Reception (011/206-9910 or [email protected] ) if you have information to add to the welcome packet or if you discover any inaccuracies. The PTA would like to express our sincere thanks to the Community Liaison Officers at the American and British Embassies for providing much of the information in this guide.

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Table of Contents

WELCOME TO BELGRADE ........................................................................................6 BELGRADE GENERAL INFORMATION ...................................................................6 Climate ........................................................................................................................6 Time Zone ..................................................................................................................7 Electricity ....................................................................................................................7 Currency/Banking .......................................................................................................7 Security .......................................................................................................................7 Public Transportation ..................................................................................................7 Taxis ............................................................................................................................8 Motor Vehicles ..........................................................................................................11 Vehicle Registration ..................................................................................................11 Car Insurance ............................................................................................................11 Parking ......................................................................................................................12 NECESSITIES ..............................................................................................................13 Moving Companies used by other ISB families .......................................................13 MOVE ONE ..............................................................................................................13 Paying Bills ...............................................................................................................13 Communications .......................................................................................................14 Internet Service at Home ..........................................................................................14 Local Mail .................................................................................................................14 Express mail companies ............................................................................................14 Telephones ................................................................................................................14 Mobile Phones...........................................................................................................15 Religious Services .....................................................................................................15 Sand ...........................................................................................................................23 Functions, Caterers and Domestic Staff ....................................................................24 Hairdressers/Beauty Salons/Massage........................................................................26 SIGHTSEEING IN BELGRADE .................................................................................29 Places of Interest In and Around Belgrade ...............................................................29 Places to Visit Outside of Belgrade ..........................................................................35 Travel Agencies ........................................................................................................41 Sports Activities ........................................................................................................45 Clubs for Foreigners..................................................................................................51 Useful Tips on Serbian Habits & Customs ...................................................................52

5 ISB HELPFUL INFO

ISB WEBSITE: www.isb.rs PTA WEBPAGE: http://www.isb.rs/about_isb/pta.html PTA EMAIL ADDRESS: [email protected] should you ever want to contact the PTA to ask a question, give a suggestion, add a comment, or volunteer! LANGUAGE REPRESENTATIVES Many ISB parents have volunteered to serve as language representatives for the 2008 ­ 2009 School Year. These generous parents have offered to serve as points of contact for those at ISB who would like to receive communications or ask questions in their own language. If you would like to volunteer to be a language representative or would like to know who is the language rep for your native language, please contact [email protected] or Admissions Officer Sanja Ilic in the Lower School at 011/266-9999 or at [email protected] . ROOM PARENT REPRESENTATIVES: At the beginning of each school year, the PTA recruits at least one parent from each classroom in the Lower and Middle Schools and per grade in High School to serve as the "room parent." As soon as a room parent is designated, his/her name will appear on the room parent list on the PTA webpage: http://www.isb.rs/about_isb/pta.html. You may also ask your child(ren)s teacher(s) who the room parent is for his/her class or email [email protected] . We encourage you to volunteer to be a Room, Class, or Grade parent also by contacting [email protected] . It is a wonderful way to form a strong relationship with your child(ren)s teacher(s) and to be a partner in your child(ren)s education! ISB TELEPHONE DIRECTORY: Each year the PTA assists in updating the ISB school directory. To obtain an electronic copy of the 2008 ­ 2009 ISB Telephone Directory, please contact Ms. Ilic at [email protected] . It will be updated throughout the year as new students arrive. If you happen to find that your information is incorrect in the directory, please contact Ms. Ilic as soon as possible.

6 WELCOME TO BELGRADE

Belgrade in 1789 Belgrade is one of the oldest cities in Europe. It is situated on the confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube, and settlements have existed here since pre-historic times. In its 5000+ years of existence, it has passed from the Celts to the Romans, who knew it as Singidunum, to the Byzantines under whom it was called Alba Graeca. The Slavic name of Beograd, which in English translates as "White City," was first used in 878. The population is slightly less than 2 million. BELGRADE GENERAL INFORMATION Climate Belgrade has a moderate continental climate with four seasons. Autumn is longer than spring with longer sunny and warm periods - the so-called Indian summer. Winter is not so severe with an average of 21 days of sub-zero temperature. January is the coldest month with an average temperature of 0.4 °C. Spring is short and rainy. Summer arrives abruptly. The hottest months are July (21.7 °C average) and August (21.3 °C average). The Southeast wind Kosava, which brings clear and dry weather, is characteristic of Belgrade climate. It mostly blows in autumn and winter in 2-3 day intervals. The average speed of Kosava is 25-43 km/h, but gusts can reach up to 130 km/h. Kosava is the strongest air cleaner of Belgrade. The average annual rainfall on Belgrade and its surroundings is 685 mm. The rainiest months are May and June. There are about 10 hours of sun a day in July and August while December and January are the cloudiest with only 2 to 2.3 hours of sun per day. The average number of snowy days is 27; snow cover lasts from 30 to 44 days, and its average thickness is 14 to 25 cm. Mosquitoes can be a severe problem in the summer months despite aerial spraying. The substance used for aerial spraying is eco-friendly, and we are advised that there have been no reported side effects among the population; indeed, even the bees are unaffected. Ticks appear in grassy and bushy areas from early spring, and after a day out in the woods or around trees, people should check for ticks on their clothes or bodies

7 Time Zone Serbia is on Central European Time (CET) zone (GMT+2 hour). The clocks change one hour at the end of March and at the end of October as in Western Europe. Electricity Power, 220 volts AC, can be erratic at times with surges and also periods of low voltage, as well as occasional power cuts. It is recommended to use UPS and/or voltage stabilizers/surge protection - all readily available locally - for sensitive electrical equipment such as PCs. Currency/Banking The local currency is the Dinar, abbreviated RSD for Republic of Serbia Dinar. Hotels and banks can advise on rates. There are plenty of ATM machines in and around Belgrade. Travellers cheques can be cashed in banks for local currency, and credit cards are widely accepted. Both Mastercard and Visa are accepted in most places. Conversion rate as of August 2009 $1.00 = RSD 65.29 1.00 = RSD 93.04 £1.00 = RSD 109.21 Major European banks have branches throughout the country (e.g., Raffeisen, S.G., Banka Intesa, among others). Security It has to be remembered that Belgrade is a large city, so take all normal, sensible precautions. There is some risk from pickpockets, especially on public transport and in tourist/recreation areas; so take care of what you carry with you. Also, it is wise to remember not to leave valuables visible in your car. Always use your alarm/lock immobiliser, and at night, park in a lit area. Even with all that, however, most areas frequented by ex-pats (e.g. the town center, Knez Mihailova pedestrian precinct, etc.) seem safe to walk about freely.

TRANSPORTATION Public Transportation The main public transportation system in Belgrade consists of busses, trams, and trolley busses. Taxi companies are also readily available, safe, and can be called in advance. The regional rail system (Beovoz) is operated by the national railway company and connects Belgrade's suburbs with the urban areas. There are six lines with 41 stations. Two underground stations near the city center (Vukov spomenik and Karaorev

8 Park) are used by lines 1 and 2. Construction of a three-line pre-metro/light rail transit system is scheduled to begin this year, and the first line should be completed by 2010. Belgrade has an increasingly efficient public transport system. With its network of busses, trolley busses, and trams, the entire city is covered, including New Belgrade and Zemun. Tickets are purchased from kiosks, small shops which display the "Duvan" sign. Books of tickets are slightly cheaper and more convenient. At present a pre-purchased ticket is 40 RSD while a ticket bought from the driver/conductor is more expensive, 80 RSD. Ticket punching machines are located inside the vehicle at the front and rear and must be used. Tickets are also usually available on public transport vehicles. However, it should be noted that in the absence of a conductor, the driver should be paid, and a sign will be displayed both inside the vehicle and on the windscreen to indicate this. When in doubt, check with the driver as there are regular ticket inspectors who impose a high on-the-spot fine (1800 RSD at present) for passengers travelling without tickets as well as passengers whose tickets have not been punched. Private busses operate on the same routes as the city busses and also accept pre-paid tickets. You can also purchase a monthly ticket per Zone from an office near McDonalds, Slavija Square, but for this you need to obtain a travel identity card. An identity card can be obtained from GSP, Zmaj Jovina 41 (go to the counter area), tel. 2633-873, website http://www.gsp.rs/english/main.htm You will need one small photograph, a photocopy of your own ID card (take the original, too, just in case), and approximately 250 Dinars. Busses, trolleys & tramways operate from 4 PM ­ 11:30 PM at intervals of 3-20 min. Night Lines operate at far longer intervals and with slightly modified bus numbers. For all information on city lines contact: tel. 2629-019 Transport of handicapped persons: tel. 2625-582 Subway operates on 3 lines: Batajnica ­ Pancevo Resnik ­ Pancevo Resnik ­ Batajnica Vukov Spomenik Station (04:00-24:00) tel. 337-0047 Railways website: www.yurail.rs Taxis Fares are metered; so do ensure that the taxi driver is using his meter and that it is correctly set at the start of the journey. There are three tariffs, the most expensive being used after 10PM, which at present is double the normal daily tariff. Also beware of taking taxis to/from the airport before checking in advance how much the fare is going to be, as some ,,cowboys operate on this route. Only use a taxi displaying a taxi sign. Beotaxi (as well as Lux and other taxi companies) accepts bookings sent by SMS. Send your message to tel. 970 enter your location address and the address of your destination, and you should shortly receive an answer (i.e. which vehicle will pick you up and when or, alternatively, no vehicle available at that moment). For example: to request a taxi from the school to home, send the following message: Temisvarska 19 to your home address. You will receive one of the

9 following replies: Nista slobodno (nothing available) OR the taxi number and the number of minutes until it will arrive. If you receive the "nothing available" message, wait 2-3 minutes and try again. Below is a small selection of the many taxi companies in Belgrade. Alfa Taxi tel. 011/244-1100 Alo Taxi tel. 011/3564-555, 3537-123 Beotaxi tel. 011/9801 Bell tel. 011/9808 Cukarica tel. 011/9805 Lux Taxi tel. 011/3033-123 Naxi Taxi tel. 011/2164-714 Pink tel. 011/9803, 4889-977 Taxi Maxis tel. 011/581-111, 9804 Zuti Taxi tel. 9802 Radio Beotaxi tel. 970 Car rental

HERTZ rent-a-car Beograd Trg Nikole Pasia 1, Beograd (+381 11) 3346 179 HERTZ - Palmira Toljatija 9, Novi Beograd (+381 11) 2695 225 HERTZ - Aerodrom Beograd Nikola Tesla (+381 11) 2286 017 BUDGET Rent a Car Proleterske solidarnosti 38, 11000 Beograd Tel: +381 (0)11 3113050 Budget Rent-a-Car Aerodrom Beograd Nikola Tesla Telefon: +381 (0)11 209 49 59 RCS rent a car system d.o.o.. Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 10V/I, vp.26, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 10I, VP 75, Beograd (+381 11) 2140 861 Star Car Bulevar Aresnija arnojevia 66 - lokal 31, Novi Beograd (+381 11) 2129-881 Enterprise rent-a-car Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1 (+381 11) 2449657 Enterprise rent-a-car Beograd (+381 11) 311 91 43 (+381 65) 8 699 699 (+381 65) 5 555 754 ZIM Rent a Car ubrina 6-8, Beograd (+381 11) 218 5851 Eminence Rent a Car Aerodrom Nikola Tesla Beograd (+381 11) 2097515 VIP Rent a Car Partizanov stadion, Humska 1 (+381 11) 3690890 PriMero rent-a-car Bulevar Dr Zorana inia 59, Beograd (+381 11) 301 5004 PriMero rent-a-car - Aerodrom Beograd (+381 11) 228 6362 AVIS rent-a-car Hotel Hyatt Regency Beograd Milentija Popovia 5, Beograd Tel:+381 11 212 99 44 Avis - Aerodrom Nikola Tesla, Beograd Tel:+381 (0)11 20 97 062

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PriMero rent-a-car - Hotel Intercontinental, Vladimira Popovia 10, Beograd Autotehna Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 94 (+381 11) 2433314 Autotehna Aerodrom Nikola Tesla (+381 11) 2286133 Autotehna Obiliev venac 25 (+381 11) 2620362 Auto Rent Aerodrom Beograd (+381 63) 349 341 (+381 11) 311 29 10

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Motor Vehicles

Vehicle Registration Foreign cars must be registered in Serbia within thirty days of clearing customs. Foreigners can register their cars with the transportation department of the nearest local police station. Documents required: Proof of customs clearance Proof of ownership Proof of foreign registration translated into Serbian Passport, Serbian visa, as appropriate Work permit (if applicable) Proof of temporary residence in Serbia Results of technical examination or inspection of the car Foreign cars used by tourists in Serbia (in cases when the simplified procedure of customs clearance without documentation was applied) do not need to be registered as long as the inspection certificate is still valid. Car Insurance You will need third party insurance for the journey out, including a "Green Card," to cover you once you get across the border. Some Western European and American insurance companies will cover you in Serbia, but many don't. If your company doesn't, you can buy third party insurance when you come across the border. There are various kiosks next to the bureau de change ("Menjacnica" in Serbian). Dunav Osiguranje and Gererali are the kiosks that the British Embassy uses, for example. They normally accept Dinars or Euros. Get 4-6 weeks worth of insurance to cover you until you get re-registered. Most embassies recommend purchasing comprehensive and collision insurance from your home country and Third Party liability insurance here. For more information or to get a policy, contact MAI-CEE Insurance Brokers ­ Serbia

Nil Karli ­ Nada Jocic Tel : 011 3130780 [email protected] [email protected] www.mai-cee.com

12 Main local insurance companies here: www.dunav.com www.wiener.rs www.ddor.rs www.deltagenerali.com www.ams.rs Parking Parking can be paid by SMS from your mobile phone. Check in which zone you are parked on the sign on the street and send a message with your cars license plate number as follows: (as an example) BG123A123 to 9111 if in Zone 1, to 9112 if in Zone 2, or to 9113 if in Zone 3. You will immediately receive a message back saying "Za vozilo broj BG123A123 vi ste kupili kartu...." which means you have successfully paid for parking until the date and time noted in the message. If you get a different message, check that you have correctly entered your license plate number and try to send it again. You may park for one hour in Zone 1, two hours in Zone 2, and three hours in Zone 3. You will receive an SMS about 5 ­ 10 minutes before your parking expires. You may send another message to renew your parking up to the parking time limit. If you know you will be parked for 2 or 3 hours, you may send 2 or 3 messages (in Zones 2 and 3, respectively) all at once to avoid missing the reminder and not risk receiving a parking ticket (costing about 1500 RSD !). If you do receive a parking ticket, it is advisable you verify the time it was issued. Some have found that tickets were issued in error and were able to call the parking ticket office to contest this. Keep saved in your cell phone the SMS messages which you received which say you are allowed to park until such-and-such time as proof that you were legally parked. You may not move to another parking spot in the same zone once you have parked for the maximum time allowed in that zone until 35 minutes after your time has expired. For example, you can park in a Zone 3 spot anywhere in town (moving from one Zone 3 spot to another Zone 3 spot) for a maximum of three consecutive hours (and paying for that parking, of course). However, after you have paid to park three hours, you will not be allowed to send a parking message to request parking in any Zone 3 parking place in town until approximately 35 minutes has passed after your 3 hours of parking expired. The same is true for after two hours in Zone 2 or after one hour in Zone 1. However, you may immediately move to another Zone to park if you used up your time in one particular Zone (and in that case, you do not need to wait 35 minutes before sending a SMS parking request).

Public Parking Garages

OBILIEV VENAC, Obiliev venac 14, 630-824 ZELENI VENAC, Narodnog fronta 13, 361-1515 MASARIKOVA, Masarikova 4-6, 645-922 AIRPORT, 601-555 lok. 2958 VUKOV SPOMENIK, Ruzveltova 1, 3370-915 PIONIRSKI PARK, Dragoslava Jovanovia 4, 3344-416

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NECESSITIES

Moving Companies used by other ISB families MOVE ONE AGS

Real Estate Agents recommended by ISB families

CB Richard Ellis Dragan Radulovic, Vladimir Popovic Genex Apartments, A305, New Belgrade 011/222-3407, 065/64-00-146 [email protected] (Dragan), 065/20-68-442 [email protected] (Vlada) 063/10-24-018 (Katarina); 063/321-598 (Bora), 011/313-9955

Colliers International

Katarina Dzelebdzic, Borivoj Popovic

Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115D, New Belgrade

[email protected] [email protected]

Eurent

Nemanja Mihailovic

Dobraina 21

064/1193671, 011/2623 395

[email protected]

King Sturge

Srdjan Vujicic, Sasa Zlatkovic

Usce Tower, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, New Belgrade

2637570, 3287057, 063/234805

[email protected] [email protected]

Vos Mediator

Vojislav Noveski, Dejan Komlenac

Bulevar Vojvode Bojovica 4

29-20-472, 29-20-466, 062-28-24-34

[email protected] [email protected]

West Properties

Vladimir Vukicevic, Ljiljana Teodosijevic

Trnska 2

011/34-88-41, 011/3835-888, 063/309039 (Vlada), 063/282-558 (Ljilja)

[email protected]

Habitat

Dejan Jevremovic

Kralja Petra 9

011/263 83 84, 062 859 4281 [email protected]

Paying Bills Normal household bills (electricity, Internet, etc.) may be paid at any post office or bank. You need to bring a copy of your bill, showing the amount to be paid and account number and routing number for the company to be paid. Go to the teller and complete a payment form with all the pertinent information. S/he will enter it in the

14 computer, and then you will go to the cashier "Blagajna" to pay. Be sure to get your receipt to prove your payment in case of any disagreement with the vendor. Communications Internet Service at Home The first international Internet link in Serbia began in 1996. Since then, internet service has improved dramatically. Today, many Internet Service Providers offer a reliable variety of communications services, such as wired and wireless Internet connection, ADSL service, and modem connection. Major Internet Service Providers: BeoTelNet, Kumodraska 241, Nemanjina 40, Tel: 3955-155 www.beotel.rs Bits, Misarska 11, Tel: 3239-494, www.bitsyu.net EUnet, Zmaj Jovina 3, Tel: 3281-121, Fax: 3030-811, www.eunet.rs Verat Net, Gavrila Principa 58, Tel: 3065-423 SezamPro, Kralja Petra 20, Tel:308-18-18, Fax: 308-18-11, www.sezampro.rs YUBC Net, Brae Jugovia 16/I, Tel: 30-83-350, www.yubc.net SCnet, Sava centar, Milentija Popovia 9, Tel: 311-5684, Fax: 311-3481, www.net.rs Online telephone book of Serbia - www.telekom.rs For almost all these Internet providers, clients may pay for several months service at once and receive a discount for doing so. Local Mail Post offices on duty (daily 08.00-20.00): Posta () Post Office 01, Takovska 2, Tel: 323-8481 Post Office 80, Zemun, Glavna 8, Tel: 610-695 Post Office ­ Posta () In Dedinje - Neznanog Junaka 2a (behind C Market) In Senjak ­ across from the C Market Express mail companies PTT, Express mail service, Takovska 2, Tel: 9809 DHL, Omladinskih brigada 86, Tel: 318-1844 UPS, Aerodrom Beograd, Tel: 601-555 ext. 2112 TNT, Cvijieva 60, Tel: 769-232 FedEx, Autoput 22, Tel: 3149-075 Telephones Public telephones are generally available only for local calls. Telephone cards are purchased from post offices or tobacco kiosks (Duvan). International calls can be made through hotel telephone exchanges and in the following post offices: Beograd 1 at

15 Takovska 32 and Beograd 3 at Zmaj Jovina 17. There is direct dialing from Serbia to the United States and most other countries in the world: dial 00 then country code (001 for US). Visitors are warned that international calls can be expensive. Local telephone numbers that begin with 011 are land line numbers, and numbers beginning with 060, 061, 062, 063, 064, 065, and 069 are mobile phone numbers. If you are calling from land line to mobile, you must dial the 06_ part first; likewise from mobile to land line, dial 011 first. From landline to landline you do not need to dial 011 code first. Most landline phones have 7 digits, but some still have only 6 and are in the process of being converted. Mobile numbers can be 6 or 7 digits. If you need to give your number to someone outside of Serbia, the country code is 381. Many people choose to get Voice Over IP services to make calls home. People have used Skype (www.skype.com), a free download which allows you to make calls from your computer to any telephone cheaply (Calls to US cost approximately $.02/minute.). Through Skype you may also purchase a US-based telephone number that your friends and family from America can use to call you on your computer. Finally, if you get your friends or family to sign up and talk computer-to-computer, you can talk for free. You will need a high speed connection and a microphone to use this service. Others have used Vonage which requires you to purchase a phone and equipment to use it. See www.vonage.com for details.

Mobile Phones 062, 063, 069 Telenor, www.telenor.rs 064, 065 TELEKOM SRBIJA, Makedonska 2, Tel: 064-789, www.064.rs 060 and 061 VIP Communications www.vipmobile.rs Important Phone numbers Wake up calls Police Fire Department Ambulance Exact time Directory Assistance (info)

tel. 9811 tel. 92 tel. 93 tel. 94 tel. 95 tel. 988

Information in Belgrade

Looking for a business in Belgrade? Visit www.011info.com and enter a name or type of business. Maps of Belgrade can be found online at http://www.planplus.rs/index.aspx Simply enter the address that you are looking for, and it will quickly appear.

Religious Services

16 Christian

Protestant

St Mary's Church 23 Visegradska 1st Floor, Caritas Building Tel: 180-854 The Reverend Robin Fox Tel. 323-2948, mob. 063 750-2469 [email protected] www.stmarysbelgrade.org Service: Sundays 10.30­11.30 in English, followed by fellowship with refreshments. Sunday school for children aged 4-16. International Christian Fellowship Zira Hotel Congress Hall Ruzveltova 35 (free parking is available in the basement level of the Zira Centre). Forma pand directions: www.zirahotels.com/location.html . Meets twice monthly (the first and third Sundays of each month) at 10:00 a.m. Offers nursery/kid's church for those with small children. For more information, contact Laura Harvey at: [email protected] or 065 306 7630 Prva Baptisticka crkva Slobodanke Savi 33 Tel: 410 964, mobile: 063 392912 Pastor Dane Vidovi Sunday worship 11.00h + Sunday school ­ all ages, Wednesday 18.00 prayers, services in Serbian, personal translation available. Holy Trinity Pentecostal Church Simina 8 Tel: 622 642 (09.00-15.00) Pastors: Boban and Ann-Christin Aneli Sunday worship: 10.00-11.30 with Sunday school ages 2-13 18.00-19.30 followed by refreshments and prayer meeting Translation by headphones

Roman Catholic

Christ the King Church (Crkva Krista Kralja) Krunska 23 Tel: 323-4846, mobile: 063 359 326 A diplomat mass is held at 11.30-12.30 on Sundays. Childrens religious education in English on Sundays after mass. St Peter's Church Makedonska 23 Tel: 303 0815, 303 0814

17 Fr. Ivan Cindori, SJ Sunday Mass in English 09.00h, contemporary youth mass 18.00h St Anthony's Church Strosmajerova 6 Zemun

Jewish

Jewish Elders tel. 2624-359 Synagogue, Marsala Birjuzova 19 Tel: 2622-634 Regular services on Fridays

Muslim

Bajrakli dzamija, Gospodar Jevremova 11 Tel: 2622 428

Russian Orthodox

Crkva Svete Trojice Takovska 4 Tel: 334-2717

Serbian Orthodox

Saint Sava Krusedolska 20 Tel: 2636-684 Saint Aleksandar Nevski Cara Dusana 63 Tel: 2629-274 Saborna Crkva Sime Markovia 3 Tel: 2432-585

SHOPPING

Please remember to pick up your receipt when making purchases because you may be stopped and asked for proof of purchase as you leave the store. Shopping Hours Department stores are open weekdays 8 AM ­ 8 PM, Saturdays 8 AM ­ 3 PM Shopping centers are open weekdays 9AM ­ 8 PM, Saturdays 9 AM ­ 3 PM Delta City and ZIRA are open on Sundays till 8 PM, Mon-Sat till 10 PM Usce Shopping Center is open every day from 10 AM to 10 PM Local shops vary but usually are open only until 1 PM on Saturdays and Sundays.

18 Apparel Small clothing stores with eclectic collections exist throughout the city. Chain stores with several locations in Belgrade are Ateks, Kluz, Srbijateks, Yugoexport, Beko, Mona, and Afrodite. Beogradski Sajam (also known as the Bazar) has lots of small shops inside the pavilions, where clothing for both adults and children is easily available. Department stores usually also have a good selection of apparel. Main Shopping Streets Knez Mihailova (pedestrian zone) Terazije Kralja Milana (Srpskih Vladara) Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra (Bulevar Revolucije) Poeska (Banovo Brdo) Shopping Centers Banjica Chinese Shopping Center - New Belgrade - good for ribbons and crepe paper City Passage, Obiliev venac 18-20 Cumicevo Sokace entrance through Terazije or Trg Republike Trg Repubike and the surrounding area is Belgrades shopping hub, particularly Knez Mihailova, the pedestrian street. In addition to a plethora of toy stores, boutiques, souvenir stands, books stores, and a variety of other shops, the area hosts many cafes and restaurants and is a great place to spend an afternoon or evening. Other shopping districts are Terazije, Kralija Milana (Srpskih Vladara), and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra (Bulevar Revolucije). Delta City ­ New Belgrade ­ http://www.deltacitymalls.com/cms/item/home/en.html, a shopping mall including international brand shops, Bowling alley, Cinema, SuperMaxi supermarket, and restaurants. Usce ­ New Belgrade- http://www.usceshoppingcenter.com/ A new shopping mall, with more than 140 shops, restaurants, bowling center, multiplex cinema and much more. Working hours: every day from 10AM-10PM. Eurosalon is located on the Sajam grounds (Fairgrounds) on Vojvode Misica Blvd. Aside from the selection of office, kitchen, and bedroom, the store has a nice selection of home furnishings from relatively inexpensive china and kitchen utensils to bathroom fixtures and area carpets. One can also find frames, wrapping paper, a nice selection of candles, and a lot of electronics. While you can probably find some of the products available here in other stores in downtown Belgrade, the huge advantage of this one is that you have a little bit of everything under one roof so you might be able to complete your shopping list in just one trip. The store is opened Monday - Friday from 10 AM ­ 8 PM; Saturdays from 10 AM ­ 7 PM; Sundays from 10 AM ­ 5 PM. Mercator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, Telefon: 2132-872 New Belgrade; working hours: 9AM- 9 PM except Sundays (9AM-3PM) www.mercator.rs Piramida, Jurija Gagarina, Blok 44, New Belgrade Sava Centar, Milentija Popovia 9, New Belgrade Zira, near Pionir Hall, with Super Vero Greek-chain supermarket, Mamut book store, and other shops. www.ziracentar.com Supermarkets

19 You may check stores websites, but they are not updated regularly. Its always best to call ahead before making a trip to a grocery store outside of normal, weekday business hours. Grocery stores are usually open from 6:30 AM to 8 PM or 9 PM on workdays; they close slightly earlier on Saturdays and are open until 1 PM or 3 PM on Sundays. Larger supermarkets such as MAXI and bigger C-Market stores are open until 9 PM or 10 PM everyday except Sunday (when they close around 2 PM). Shopping malls and shops in the city center are usually open until 10 PM everyday. The state-controlled supermarkets are known as Centroprom and Pekabeta. Open Monday to Friday from 8 AM ­ 7 PM, Saturday 8 PM ­ 5 PM and Sunday 8 AM ­1 PM. MegaMarket and Idea in New Belgrade are large, new, clean supermarkets next to each other with groceries, clothes, housewares, etc. Mercator in New Belgrade is open from 9 AM to 9 PM everyday except Sunday, and 9AM to 3 PM on Sundays. It is a supermarket with clothes, housewares, toys, and groceries in a shopping mall with many other stores including shoes, toys, sporting goods, gifts, and with a small play area for kids and a couple of cafes. http://www.mercator.rs/ Metro Metro has two locations near Belgrade, one in Pancevo (Zrenjaninski Put 11M) and the other in Zemun. A membership card is required to shop at this store, similar to Cosco in the U.S. The selection includes groceries, clothing, shoes, housewares and even garden furniture and play equipment. They only accept cash. Open Monday ­ Saturday 6:00 ­ 21:00, Sunday 9:00 ­ 19:00. http://www.metro-cc.rs/servlet/PB/menu/-1_l41/index.html Rodic is further out, towards the airport but is a good bet to get lower prices on bulk purchases of drinks and other staples. Super Vero in New Belgrade; a Greek company, nice complex offering other services as well. Small indoor playground for kids. It also has a small café where you can get sandwiches, pastries and drinks. This shopping center also includes a couple of other stores. Tempo Address: New Belgrade on the way to the airport Viline vode bb, Beograd http://www.tempocentar.com/code/navigate.php?Id=44 Tempo call centre: 0800/3537 040 (free call), E-mail: [email protected] Working hours of Tempo: 0-24h Butchers ­ kasapnica, mesara Most butcher shops and supermarkets sell a good range of meats and charcuterie, though lamb can be difficult to obtain when out of season. Also it should be noted that many cuts of meat are different to those available in Western Europe. In addition, ground meat is passed through the meat grinder twice. To get the type of ground meat more similar to that in America, ask the butcher to cut off however many grams of juneci but and pass it through the grinder only once ("mleveno samo jedan put").

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The following butchers have been used by ISB families recently: Butik Mesa "Uzelac," Beogradskog Bataljona, in Banovo Brdo. They have lovely cuts of meat and will grill them for you (at no extra charge) if you call ahead or while you wait. Very good chicken livers or chicken breast wrapped in bacon, which are excellent for cocktail party hors doeuvres. Telephone number: 011/355-8289 Konstancia is good for venison, wild boar and the like, which should be ordered a few days in advance. Tel. 3231 863, 3230 776, or www.konstancia.rs Mama Dana, located at Kaleni market Maxi Diskont supermarkets have been mentioned as selling good meat. Mesara Cubura, Kalenieva 4 Mesara Uno ­ on Sarajevska Street just across from the bottom entrance of the American Embassy. Tel. 011/265 9273. Has great beef fillet that you can order if you need it. Perper Located at the end of Bulevar Avnoj in New Belgrade, offers first class beef, veal, pork, and ground meat. Also offers a large range of delicatessen products like proscuitto, salami, and sausages, as well as a good fruit and vegetable shop outlet opposite it. There is a popular restaurant outside belonging to the shop, and they are open 7 days a week. Alternative food options (or what is is called in Serbian...?) Cornflour ­ Buy Gustin by Dr Oetker from most supermarkets

Double Cream ­ Buy the green Halta tetrapak. This is vegetable fat but it behaves in the same way as double cream when you cook with it. You can find this in Mercator or any other supermarket. Porridge oats ­ Buy the Blue paper packet (500 g) from "Hahne." You can find these in Mercator or Idea, and they are located together with bio/organic foods Single cream ­ Buy slatka pavlaka Frozen vegetables ­ the best brand is Frikom (especially for the peas)

Open Markets Open daily 6 AM ­ 5 PM in summer and 8 AM ­ 4 PM in winter, they are the best places to buy vegetables, fruits, and flowers (except on the coldest winter days). Around these markets you will also find many butchers, fish shops, bakeries, and small grocery shops. Some of the best known open markets are...

21 Banjica Pijaca Still small but growing with a good butcher "Delicates urii," as well as a health food shop. Banovo Brdo green market, convenient to those living in Banovo Brdo, located just behind Grill Uno on Pozeska between the Hipodrom and the JugoPetrol station in Banovo Brdo Buvlja Pijaca (Buvljak) Flea Market, Novi Beograd. Take the road from the Hyatt (Milentija Popovia) and continue along Jurija Gagarina - the market is located on the right and cannot be missed for size. One can find everything ranging from clothes to cleaning products, electrical appliances to tools, carpeting to kitchenware, plasticware, chocolate, shoes, etc. Large, open-air, car park opposite the main entrance to the flea market and Ribrnica Kalenic (Tel: 0655477-347 or 063477347) situated behind the big health food shop in the fish sector. Working hours: 8AM-4PM (closed on Mondays) Kalenia Pijaca (Vraar), Maksima Gorkog An excellent place for fresh vegetables, fruit, meat and fish and especially well supplied on Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings. Also to be found are household goods, local cheeses, olive oil, herbs and home-made jams, as well as ducks, geese and turkeys. Flowers are sold in bulk at cheap prices, early in the morning, between 07.00 and 08.00h. Biospajz, a well-recommended vegetarian shop, is also located at this market. Also try fishmongers Gora Prom. Senjak Market (Vase Pelagia) A handy little market for Senjak residents, located at the bottom of the hill. Vidikovac Market ­ Near Garden Center and Vidikovac McDonalds. Large selection, especially nice plants, reasonable prices. Also to be found separately are honey, jams, household products, lighting, clothing, etc. Zeleni Venac Pijaca, Narodnog Fronta (below Moskva Hotel) This fruit and vegetable market is open until late afternoon. Also stocks eggs, honey, clothing, household products, pasta, and flowers, as well as small butcher shops and local cheese shops. Zemun Market An excellent fruit and vegetable market with produce being brought into town and sold direct from the countryside rather than via a middleman. Also to be found separately are honey, jams, household products, lighting, clothing, etc, in the second part of the market

Other Shops 24-hour Shops Iraqi Stores at Autokomanda (fruit and vegetables, groceries and cleaning products) Maki Market in Banovo Brdo on Beogradskog Bataljona ...among others in various neighborhoods.

22 Delicatessen Menattis near the British Embassy (corner of Svetozara Markovi and Vojvode Milenka) ­ comes well recommended. Takovo Food Products All Takovo food products, such as fruit juices, jams, spirits, ajvar, tea, etc. can be purchased from their warehouse at tax-free prices. Open. Monday - Friday 07.0015.00 Takovo Warehouse, Nikolaja Gogolja 11, tel. 542-384/522-252

Antiques Regular weekend antique fairs are held at Hotel Slavija A, Svetog Save Street, and Hotel Jugoslavija in New Belgrade. A large number of exhibitors offer diverse wares including furniture, china, jewellery, stamps, medals, etc. Art Galleries Serb Orthodox Church Museum & Gallery, Kralja Petra, 5 Gallery of the Serbian Academy of Sciences, Knez Mihailova 55 Art University Gallery, Knez Mihailova, 53 Sebastian Art Gallery, Rajiceva, 12 Verica DS Gallery, Rajiceva, 20 Radionica Duse Gallery, Knez Mihailova 48 (next to British Council Library) Trezor Gallery, Knez Mihailova, 19 Art Pavilion Cvijeta Zuzoric, Mali Kalemegdan Gallery of the Cultural Centre of Belgrade, Knez Mihailova 6 Fine Arts Belgrade Cultural Centre Gallery, Belgrade Window (souvenirs, shopping), Ethnographic Museum & Artmedia Gallery, Studentski Trg, 13 Gallery of the Jugoslav Army, Brae Jugovia 19 Graphics Gallery, Obiliev venac 27 Zepter Gallery, Kralja Petra I no. 32 Gallery Progres, Knez Mihailova 22 Gallery of Museum of Contemporary Art, Pariska 14 Ulus Gallery, Knez Mihailova 37 Gallery of the Faculty of Fine Arts, Knez Mihailova 53 Sanu Gallery of Science & Technology, Djure Jaksia 2 Kosaniev Venac Gallery (close to Patriarchate) Gallery of Students Culture Centre, Makedonska 22 Stara Kapetanija Art Gallery, Kej oslobodjenja 8, Zemun Gallery Haos, Cara Lazara 12

Books The following bookshops are good for English language books and newspapers: BNB Bookshop, Tel. 3442 975, e-mail [email protected] IPS Bookshop, Knez Mihailova 6 (basement), e-mail www.ips.co.yu or from IPS outlets in Mercator and Vero, New Belgrade. Longmans Bookshop, Akronolo, Krusedolska 1b Tel nos. 434 040 435 333, fax. 435 329, e-mail [email protected] Oxford Centre, Dobracina 27, tel. 631-021

23 Plato Bookshop, Knez Mihailova 48, tel. 625-834 The English Book (Oxford University Press), Staro Sajmiste 29 tel. 313 1044, e-mail [email protected] Mamut, Knez Mihailova & Zira shopping center Sand From the roundabout in front of Pink TV, take the street Neznanog Junaka past the street where the nursery school INSB is, as if you were going to Banjica. Continue along this road until you come to a major crossroads with Bulevar JNA (Oslobodjenja). Go straight over the road, and you will see a petrol station on the corner on your right. Just ahead there is a builders yard. Pull in there. Sand can be purchased from a man in a van, but you have to try a few times because he isnt always there. Fridays seem to work. Ask for a Djak (a bag) peska (of sand). Djak is said like "Jack." Plants and garden supplies Garden Centar, Vidikovaki venac 102a in Vidikovac. Open 9 a.m. ­ 8 p.m. Monday ­ Saturday and Open 9 a.m. ­ 4 p.m. on Sundays. (See also Vidikovac Open Market for nice plants and flowers.) Souvenir and gift shops Beogradski izlog, Knez Mihailova 6, 263-1721 Beosuvenir, Zeleni Venac, 263-1423 Ethno magazine Gral, Zetska 13, 324-6583 Ethnography Museum, Studentski Trg 13, 328-1888 Galerija ART, ulica Marka Leka 6 (near Australian Embassy), 262-8053 IPS Mahmut Megastore, Sremska 2, 639-060 Singidunum, Knez Mihailova 42, 185-323 Vukasovic, Gospodar Jevremova 63 ­ a side street in Skadarljia, tel 064 297 7994. A great book binding place that can also produce personalised photo albums and the like with beautiful personalised leather covers. Great for presents. Zdravo zivo, Nusieva 3, 324-7574

Toys Magaza (Veleprodaja Igracaka), Zemun - Ratarski Put 10b, Phone: 316-1721, 197-752, 197889 www.magazayu.com e-Mail: [email protected] (Goran Micovic)

SERVICES Auto Mechanic Andjelkovic, Senjak. On the street behind the Italian Deli in Senjak. Address: Stolacka 8. Tel no. 0112652385, 2653156. Recovery service number is: 0644121209 or email: [email protected] Rade Raji, Kruni Put 17 behind Land Rover shop, 063-778-5952 Bicycle Repair Ciclodrom. Bulevar Umetnosti N.1, Belgrade, tel: 011/2146-329 or mobile 063/7395-240. The shop is very close to Mercator centre, but a bit difficult to find. It is on the corner

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from Bulevar Umetnosti, in one of the big concrete buildings, there is a small entrance.

Computer repair Dejan Milakovi, 064-112-0794

Clothes rental Maslack - www.maslacak.rs tel: 011-8044963 or mobile: 064-1236883 / 063-8887469

Dry Cleaners Tip Top Kosta Glavinia 5c Tel. 2647-363 Pop's Mercator, New Belgrade Tel. 3130-251

Framing Pale Gallery, Blagoja Parovica 25 near diplomatic area in Banova Brdo. Tel: 011/254 7405

Flowers Many flower shops are located around town. Teleflora has been tried, tested, and proven reliable, and some staff speak English Svetogorska 11, 11000 Belgrade Tel. 303-0048, 303-0047, E-mail [email protected] Web www.teleflora.rs

Functions, Caterers and Domestic Staff

Babysitting, Pet Sitting Bebi Servis, tel. 2629 123 Gospodar Jevremova 18 at least 24 hours notice required. Mary Poppins - Kids, House Pets, and You in Good Care.

Phones: 061- 11 309 66, 061- 11 309 55. Rates 2008/2009: Babysitting 400dinars/hour Part-time 20hrs/wk (4hrs/5days), monthly 250 Euros Full-time 40hrs/wk (8hrs/5days), monthly 350 Euros Pet sitting 1-3 days 600dinars/day +3 days 300dinars/day Housekeeping A- 8hrs/wk (4hrs/2days), monthly 140 Euros B- 12hrs/wk (4hrs/3days), monthly 210 Euros

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C- 20hrs/wk (4hrs/5days), monthly 280 Euros Personal service In-home spa Women/Men's manicure Women/Men's pedicure Kid's manicure Kid's pedicure *please note for kid's care starting at age 4.* Women's cut, blow dry & styling Personal shopping Party service Breakfast, Lunch, Tea, Dinner, Cocktails & Parties

Pet Hotel (open all year) owned & operated by Dragana and Djordje. Located at Topcider, near Dedinje and Senjak. They are extremely loving & caring towards the animals and will be happy to take care of your dog or cat while you are out of Belgrade; Several Diplomats have left their pets here while traveling. You can see some photo's of happy pets that have stayed with them: www.geocities.com/smestaj . Pet Pick-up and Dropoff from your home is also available. Contact Djordje (Speaks English) on 063/ 8430303. Catering Catering Servis Lastavica Adresa: Sumatovaka 70a Telefon: 011/24-44-931, 064/16-33-874 Big variety, nicely presented, modest pricing (This is an NGO comprising of a catering service and a weaving works to support women on the margins of society and refugee women) Dejan Filipovi tel. 563-031 mobile 064 142 6142 Italian style. Well recommended. Dinners, lunches, buffets, good cakes. Waiters can be provided. La dane Laetitia Blankert, mobile:064/184 1128, e-mail [email protected] Well known within the international community. Also can supply tents, tables, chairs, crockery, cutlery, ice, waiters. Can cater for up to 150 guests with 2 weeks notice and 100 people with one weeks notice. Mary Poppins, Tel: 061 11 309 66, 061 11 309 55. (more info above under "Babysitting, Pet Sitting" above) Menu Home Cooking tel/fax: 3592 261, mob.: 064 127 8298, e-mail: [email protected] website: www.menu.rs Provides first class cuisine and service in the home. Mia Mati, Tel. 176-5920, mobile: 064 139 0163 Banquets, cocktail parties, cold buffets, wedding and engagement parties.

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Orah ­ Tel. 011 322 11 91, mobile: 063283412 or email: Cocktail parties, cold buffets ­ not too expensive

[email protected]

Windmill Catering Vladislav Velji ­ functions organiser, mobile: 064 210 7056, 063 815 0418 e-mail [email protected], [email protected] Barbeques, birthday parties and all celebrations. Finger food, salads, main dishes, desserts, beverages. Waiters on request Party Service Kalemarska 31g Tel: 011/3947-749, 064/84-11111 Dragan Ili tel/fax 394-6461, mobile 063 207868 www.partyservice.rs, email: [email protected] Whatever the occasion they are able to cope with banquets up to 400 or cocktail parties up to 5,000. Able also to provide waiting staff and drinks. Zivko Ginin tel.190-790 Serbian style ­ good meat ­ highly recommended. Waiting Staff Pavle (Paul), tel. 2660-377 English speaking Ice Zoran, mobile 063 203 543 Domestic Help If you are looking for daily cleaning help or someone to look after the children, it is worth checking with the women of the International Womens Club (IWC) of Belgrade, who have a listserve allowing people to ask for recommendations. The IWC Secretarys email address is [email protected] See also Mary Poppins above. Hairdressers/Beauty Salons/Massage Alexander Team No. 1 Salon, corner of Srpskih Vladara 1 and Resavska, unisex salon www.aleksandar-team.rs Body & Soul Goca

tel. 361 2134 mob. 063 288 228

tel. 064 250 1602

Cuperak (specializing in Childrens haircuts) T.C. City Hall, Banovo Brdo Pozeska 19/1, loc 3.12 Tel: 011/354-57-40 or Dragica: 063/8307-313 Dajana Bulevar JNA 20 tel. 264 7053 (just off the Autokomanda end of the bridge) mob. 063 771 6342

27 (Daniela is well recommended) [email protected]

Dajana Bulevar JNA 20 (just off the Autokomanda end of the bridge) (Daniela is well recommended) [email protected]

e-mail.

tel. 264 7053 mob. 063 771 6342 e-mail.

Dejan Salon Hyatt Regency Hotel, Milentija Popovia 5, unisex salon (Ivana is well recommended) Flamingo Knez Milosa Street (opposite US Embassy) Massages and facials for very reasonable prices

tel. 301 1152

tel. 361-7765

Gordana Matovic-Milenkovic tel.: 063/ 770 6518 Massage for 20 euros for approximately 1.25 hours, and she will come to your home. Ivana Salon tel. 064/ 115 9949 Pozeska 172, main floor, in Banovo Brdo For Nails, Facials, and great Massage - approximately $15 for manicure and pedicure & $20 for 1.25 massage & $25 for a facial

Mic Styling ­ Mercator Shopping center Hair-dresser. Walk up the escalator and turn left. The stylist Natasa speaks very good English. tel. 011/313 0038

Press Zetska 4a tel. 324-0466 Mia speaks English well and is recommended by many in the international community. Rock & Hair tel. 011/322-5426, 063/271 1919 Next to the American Corner on Makedonska Street (downtown Belgrade) Owner Mr. Branko Petkovic, President of the Serbian Hairdressers Association. He is fluent in English and an excellent stylist. Working hours from noon till 8pm, Saturday 10am-3pm. Salon Proleterske Solidarnosti 30, New Belgrade. Appointments for hair, manicures, pedicures, waxing, and massage available by calling Milena at 065 228 2828. Stage Salon Kneza Milosa Street tel. 268-8817 Angela, who owns it speaks perfect English, has given the best cuts Ive had here and at the lowest price (about $15 for a haircut) with a really pleasant atmosphere.

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Studio ore Koste Glavinia 3a tel. 2650 939 (opposite Senjaks green market) ore, who speaks excellent English, and Rade who speaks enough English to get by. See also Mary Poppins above under "Babysitting, Pet Sitting." Shoe Repair Vladan Andre Nikolia 1 Obucar, in the small alleyway on uphill side of Pozeska street, just before Jugopetrol station in Banovo Brdo. Skis & skates Banovo Brdo, Ljeska 2, lok. 3, tel 011/354-20-18, mobile 063/86-96-164. They provide a great service.

29 SIGHTSEEING IN BELGRADE

1. Kalemegdan 2. Old Town 3. Kneza Mihaila Street, pedestrian zone 4. Republic Square 5. Terazija 6. King Milan Street 7. Par lament 8. Skadarlija 9. Museums, galleries 10. St Marko, Tasmajdan Park 11. St Sava, Karadjordje Park 12. Embassy Road 13. Zemun, the old town 14. New Belgrade area 15. Belgrade Fairground 16. Sava Centre 17. Soccer Stadiums 18. Old Road to Avala, 16km/mile 10 19. Topcider 20. Ada Ciganlija Places of Interest In and Around Belgrade The Belgrade Tourist Board has an office in the Albanija underpass at the beginning of Terazije on the corner of Knez Mihailova as well as an office at Makedonska 5, 334-3460. Open weekdays from 9 AM to 8 PM, Saturdays from 9 AM ­ 5 PM, Sundays from 10 AM-4 AM. The staff is friendly and helpful and can offer a wide range of programs for visits to places of interest such as monasteries, spas, and ski

30 resorts in Serbia. They can also provide pamphlets about Belgrade on subjects such as events, shopping, and food. Handy websites with information on Belgrade in English are the Tourist Organization of Belgrade www.tob.rs (200 photos + web film on Belgrade) and www.beograd.rs, as well as the National Tourism Organisation of Serbia www.serbia-tourism.org, www.serbia-infor.com/ntos and www.siepa.sr.gov.rs/english. Visit www.belgradetourism.rs/english/zasto_bg/dogadjaj/ +month for a list of the current months concert and theatrical season. Also try ,www.expat.rs a website created by the EXPAT foundation to bring together foreigners living in Belgrade and http://belgradeinsideout.com

Belgrade Open Tour Hop on / Hop off

Seven days at week, from April to October Hop on-hop off service Audio guide - 8 languages First departure at 9:30 h, last at 18:00 h, Sava Passenger Dock, Karaoreva street Tour frequency approximately 30 min

Itinerary: Sava Passenger Dock, Hotel Hyatt, Sava Center, Hotel Holiday INN, Belgrade arena, Tresnjinog cveta street, Terazije Square, Nikole Pasia Square , Museum 25th May, Slavija Square, Terazije Square, Republic Square and Park Kalemegdan. You can buy the ticket directly on board. Information: Tourist information centers - Tourist organization of Belgrade Makedonska 5, tel. 3343-460 (09.00-20.00, Saturday.. 09.00-17.00, Sunday. 10.0016.00) Terazije, pedestrian zone, "Albanija" Palace tel. 2635-622 (09.00-20.00, Saturday. 09.00-17.00, closed on Sundays The bus stops approximately 30 min. at each stop Validity starts from the moment of first boarding on the bus Ticket valid 24 hours: 750 RSD / adults 500 RSD / children 6-12 Ticket valid 48 hours: 1 000 RSD / adults 750 RSD / children 6-12 Under 6 free of charge Panoramic Sightseeing of Belgrade ­ Hot Air Balloon flights The balloon flight includes: - organised transport to take-off point and return after the flight - flight of 60 to 90 minutes duration

31 - certificate and special gift - champagne celebration on touch-down - insurance Flights are available every day throughout the year when dry and when wind speed does not exceed 5 m/s. The flight rises to 1000m (3300 feet). Price- 60-90 minutes flight: 100 Euros per passenger Balon servis Salvadora Aljendea 5/9 tel. 062-252-067 www.balonservis.rs

Sightseeing by Boat (summer only) Departs from the quayside near Hotel Jugoslavija Tuesdays/Fridays: 6pm Saturdays/Sundays: 4pm and 6pm Children up to 6 years: free Children 6 to 14 years: 125 Dinars Adults: 250 Dinars

"KEJ" YACHTING CLUB Cruises all year round on the Sava and Danube with the culinary specialities of top chefs and a professional sound system (4 x 500 W) in two catamarans, one taking 110 and one 70 passengers. Business meetings, formal dinners, celebrations, and anniversaries are also catered for. Duration: 2 hours Price: 350 dinars per person Departures: From the Quay Yachting Club, daily at 20.00 and also at 22.00 and 24.00 if required Novi Beograd, Dunavski kej, Use Tel: 316-5432, mob. 064-825-1116 e-mail: [email protected] www.klubkej.com

METRO ON WATER Cruising down the Sava and Danube on the the Danka, Carpe Diem, and Bellagio boats. These vessels are suitable for day cruises, panoramic views of the city from the river, lunches, promotional events, cocktail parties, all types of parties and celebrations. The capacity of the boats is 60 people. Departures: By the Ada floating restaurant in front of Hotel Jugoslavija - Regular cruises: Daily at 7 PM from Zemun to the Brankov Most bridge and back. 350 dinars per person - Dinner cruise: Fridays and Saturdays at 8:30 PM from Zemun to Ada Meica and back. 1450 dinars per person Zemun, Kej osloboenja 11a

32 mobile: 063-444-443, 064-823-4531 e-mail: [email protected] ; www.metronavodi.rs TURISTIC BOAT "DANUVIJE" Boat with big covered deck, air conditioned, two level saloon, bar, sound system, upto-date GPS (all year round cruising ), kitchen, and saloon with beds, professional and experienced staff. Programs: - Belgrade sightseeing by boat - Belgrade sightseeing by boat with lunch in fish restaurant - Belgrade sightseeing by boat by night with dinner in fish restaurant - Cruising to Beska, Sremski Karlovaci, Smederevo, Titel, Vina, erdapske klisura, Viminacium i Novi Sad - Private parties and celebrations Departures: Savsko pristaniste, beside restaurant "Bella Vista" Capacity: 50 pax mobile: 064-355-8844, 064-2343-100 www.danuvije.com Sightseeing by Bus 10 AM Sundays from Nikola Pasi Square, 90 minute tour with guide including Town Hall, Federal Parliament Building, Terazije Square, Republic Square, Students Square, Belgrade Fortress, Varos Gate, New Belgrade, Topider, Dedinje Hill, Liberation Square, Slavija Square and Nikola Pasi Square. Price 200 Dinars. Contact phone number:3343-460 Tourist and cultural sites Ada Ciganlija Joined by an artificial isthmus to the Sava riverbank, this popular recreation and picnic-area lies 4.5 kilometres from the centre of Belgrade and attracts more than 300,000 summer visitors. Sports facilities include football, basketball, volleyball, cable water skiing, tennis, golf, mini golf, hockey, fishing, horseback riding, and bicycle trails; bikes - including trailers for small children to sit in for pulling behind a bike - can be hired. Water sport events in the summer. Parking for 1,000 cars at the entrance. Many boat/raft restaurants line the river. www.ada-ciganlija.com. Bajrakli Mosque Gospodar Jevremova 11. Bajrakli is one of three Islamic buildings remaining in Belgrade and the only mosque. Built around 1690 as a legacy of Sultan Suleiman II, it received its name at the end of the 18th century from the flag (barjak) which, when flown, was a sign for the simultaneous beginning of prayers in all of the towns mosques. Botanical Garden Takovska 43 Tel: 3246-655 The Jevremovac Botanical Garden was established in 1874 upon the suggestion of

33 scientist Josif Pani. King Milan Obrenovi donated the land, which he had inherited from his grandfather Jevrem, to be used for the botanical garden on the condition that it be called Jevremovac. It covers an area of about 5 hectares with more than 250 species of national, European and exotic trees and shrubs. The collection presently counts about 500 individual trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants. There is also a glasshouse where tropical and rare species are kept. Following a donation from Japan, the glasshouse is being renovated and repaired, and a Japanese garden has been established together with a teahouse. The botanical garden forms part of the Faculty of Biology at the University of Belgrade and opens yearly from May. Entrance fee ­ 120 Dinars, yearly membership - 2200 Dinars. Dorcol ­ Old Belgrade Old Belgrade, together with Kalemegdan, is probably the most picturesque portion of the old town. Originally it covered only a small area near the Danube and todays intersection of Kralja Petra and Cara Dusana and, consequently, took its name from the Turkish ,,dortyol meaning the place where four roads meet. Nowadays Dorol lies between Studenski Trg and the Danube and from Skadarlija to Mali Kalemegdan. Its main attraction is the streets themselves, especially the architecture of the 19th century buildings. It is mainly a residential area, containing many small cafes and bars (especially between Studenski Trg and Cara Dusana), and a popular summer promenade along the Danube. Also, originally being the Jewish area of Belgrade, it contains the Jewish Historical Museum at Kralja Petra 71a and the Monument Menorah, which lies on the Danube riverbank. Friendship Park Domestic trees, mainly oak, maple, willow, conifer, and plane, have been planted on this, the largest green area of New Belgrade. The idea of creating the park originated on August 31, 1961, at the opening of the First Conference of the Heads of State and Governments of non-aligned Nations held in Belgrade. The concept was that every Head of delegation would plant a tree as a symbol of peace and friendship among nations. Many important statesmen have since planted seedlings in this park to mark their visit to Belgrade. Kalemegdan Citadel This strategic hilltop fortress at the junction of the Sava and Danube rivers is the oldest part of Belgrade, although due to the numerous battles fought here the fortifications were frequently destroyed and rebuilt. Roman walls and Serbian medieval fortifications can be found within the framework of the present fortress, as well as Austrian and Turkish old buildings. In particular, the fortress has well preserved battlements, trenches, several towers, and gates, mainly dating from the 18th century when the Austrians built onto older fortifications according to the plans of the military engineer Nicola Doxat de Morez. From the terrace in the Upper City, you can view the Sava Bridges, New Belgrade, Zemun, and the banks of the Danube. The large Military Museum on the battlements of the citadel presents a complete military history of Serbia in 53 rooms. The Belgrade Zoo is located next to Kalemegdan, and overlooking the river lies Ivan Mestrovis highly-visible monument to The Winner, which was unveiled in 1928 to mark the 10th anniversary of breaking through the Thessalonika Front.

34 Kosutnjak The largest forested park (and former Royal hunting park) in Belgrade, Kosutnjak is located 10 km from the heart of the city. It lies at 250m above sea level and is covered with deciduous and coniferous forests. There are basically two separate complexes on Kosutnjak: Pionirski Grad childrens center and Filmski Grad with numerous studios and other film production facilities. In 1915 Marshall von Makenzen ordered a monument to Serbian soldiers to be built as a sign of respect to the brave defenders of Belgrade. The Sports Center there includes swimming pools, fitness tracks, and tennis courts. Also visit Hajduka esma (Brigands Fountain) and the German military cemetery. Princess Ljubica's Residence Kneza Sime Markovia 8. Princess Ljubica was the wife of Prince Milos Obrenovi. Built according to the plan of Hadi Nikola ivkovi and incorporating oriental characteristics with decorative elements of classicism, her residence is a wellpreserved and fine example of early 19th century Serbian architecture (1829-31). In its time it has been used as a lyceum, Court of Appeal, and church museum. Today it is home to various exhibitions and forms a portion of the Museum of the City of Belgrade. Royal Residence HRH Crown Prince Aleksandar Karadjordjevic has opened Beli Dvor, the White Palace, and the Royal Chapel to visitors wishing to tour the buildings and see the treasures contained within. Contact the Palace Information & Press Dept, on tel. 3064000, or find out more at www.royalfamily.org, which gives details in English on obtaining tickets. The residence is open for visitors from May until the end of October by prior arrangement only. Saborna Crkva (Belgrade Cathedral) Kneza Sime Markovia 3. This Orthodox Patriarchal Church was built in 1840 by Friedrich Kwerfeld on the site of an earlier 18th century church. Adjacent to the Serbian Orthodox Museum, it provides a nice display of Serbian Orthodox construction and artefacts with ancient icons and richly adorned works of 17th-20th century master goldsmiths. Dositej Obradovi and Vuk Karadi are buried in the churchyard, the tombs of princes Milos and Mihailo Obrenovi are in the crypt, and the relics of Prince Lazar, Tsar Uros, and Despot Stevan Stiljanovi are in the church. The Church of Sveti Sava Katanieva Built on the place where Sinan Pasha burnt the remains of Saint Sava in 1494, the idea for the memorial church arose in 1927 with work beginning in 1935. The outbreak of World War II interrupted construction, and it wasnt until 1985 that work resumed under the supervision of architect Branko Pesi after permission for work to resume was given in June 1984. The style is Serbian-Byzantine and boasts four 44 meter bell towers, a total surface area of 91 x 81m², and a 70 meter dome. It is already the largest Orthodox church in the world, albeit unfinished, and is decorated with 18 goldplated crosses in 3 sizes.

Topcider Park Named after the artillery camp (topdi ­ dere) sited in the

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Topider river valley during Turkish rule and of strategic importance during both Serb uprisings as an observation point of the movements of the Turks in the city below. Pretty walking and jogging area, Prince Miloss Residence, Topider church of the Apostles Peter and Paul, the Priests House, and the obelisk are all things to see by walking around this area.

Entertainment

Belgrade is the main cultural center of Serbia. Serbia has 134 museums that showcase numerous artistic, scientific, historical and ethnographical objects. The National Museum in Belgrade - which was founded in 1844 & contains four collections: prehistoric, medieval, recent Serbian art and foreign painting with 290,000 catalogued objects - is presently closed and is undergoing renovation. When it reopens, it will host prominent exhibits of local and international artists and collections, as well as smaller thematic exhibits. In addition to permanent collections and exhibits, the National Museum also will host chamber music concerts, lectures, and various presentations. The National Museum is famous for its technical library and conservation and restoration center, which is among the largest of its kind in the world. Check out their website in English to see news of partner museums exhibitions and when the museum will be re-opened (sometime in 2010): http://www.narodnimuzej.rs/code/navigate.php?Id=74) There are 45 professional theaters in the country and numerous amateur theaters. The National Theater in Belgrade, one of the most significant cultural institutions in the country, hosts three ensembles - drama, opera, and ballet. It has three stages with the capacity of 1,100 seats. During the 130-year history of the National Theater, almost all great European artists have performed on its stage, as well as a number of foreign theater companies. The ensembles of the National Theater have performed in almost every European country in more than 90 theaters, as well as on other continents. Belgrade hosts several international festivals with a long tradition. Since its foundation in 1967, Belgrade International Theater Festival (BITEF) has hosted modern and avant-garde theater and dance performances. Belgrade Music Festival (BEMUS) was established in 1969 and has brought numerous prominent composers and musicians from abroad to the local audiences. Movie theatres (Bioskopi) are popular in Belgrade showing feature films from all over the world, many of them recent U.S. films. Most theaters show films in the original language with Serbian subtitles. The price is around 250 Dinars. Where to get information about the events: A monthly guide of events and performances is published by the Tourist Association, and copies can be obtained from the Tourist Information Center in the Albania Tower pedestrian passage, among other locations. Museum & Gallery Information Museum/gallery exhibition information, including hours of operation, is available at the Belgrade Tourist Board on Terazije or Knez Mihailova 18 (tel. 064 818-1016). Open weekdays from 9 AM ­ 8 PM, Saturdays from 9 AM ­ 4 PM. Many museums are closed on Mondays. Its wise to check before planning an outing....

Museums Ethnographic Museum, Studentski Trg 13, tel. 328-1888, www.etnomuzej.rs. Serbian national culture in the 19th and 20th centuries. Interesting souvenirs.

36 Daily from 10 AM ­ 5 PM. Sundays from 9AM ­ 2 PM. Closed Mondays. Ticket price-120 dinars, Sundays FREE. Gallery of Frescoes Painting, Cara Urosa 20, 11000 Beograd phones: (+381) 11/2621.49, fax: (+381) 11/2183.655, copies of medieval frescoes from Serbia, Montenegro, and Macedonia from 11th to 15th century. National Museum, Trg Republike 1a, phones: (+381) 11/33.060.00 fax: (+381) 11/2627.721, Serbian painting of the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Jugoslav sculpture. http://www.narodnimuzej.rs/code/navigate.php?Id=74. Closed for renovation until 2010. Vuk and Dositej Museum, Serbian educator Dositej Obradovis High School, Gospodar Jevremova 21, phones: (+381) 11/2625.161. The oldest and best-preserved example of the Balkan style architecture in the city, this Turkish house was built in the mid-18th century and used for a while as the French Consulate. In 1808 the Serbian government purchased the building as the premises for a school to educate future state employees. It has since been renovated to enclose the Vuk and Dositej Museum. Exhibitions to Serbian educator Dositej Obradovi and Vuk Karadi, the Serbian language reformer. Museum of Contemporary Art, Use Save, 311-5713, Yugoslav Artistic Space from 1900-present days, daily except Tuesday, from 10 AM -6 PM, Wednesday FREE entrance. Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church, Kralja Petra 5, presents the history and development of the Serbian Orthodox Church through documents, religious objects, and works of art. Memorial Museum of Nadeda and Rastko Petrovi, Ljube Stojanovia 25, 11000 Beograd Military Museum, Kalemegdan Museum of Applied Art, Vuka Karadia 18, 262-6494 http://www.mpu.org.yu/english/index.htm Museum of Zemun, Glavna ul. 9, history of Zemun from prehistoric to present day Museum of Nikola Tesla, scientist and inventor, Krunska 51, 243-3886 Price-100 dinars Museum of Theatrical Arts, Gospodar Jevremova 19, historical and contemporary development of the theatrical arts in Serbia Museum of Yugoslav Aviation, Surin, Belgrade Airport, 670-992 Museum of Belgrade Fortress, Kalemegdan, Sahat Gate Manaks House, Kraljevia Marka 12, 303-6114, objects, costumes and jewelery of Serbia and Macedonia

37 Ivo Andric Memorial Museum, Andriev venac 8, Nobel Prize winner for literature. Jewish Museum, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 262-2634 http://www.jim-bg.org/hp_en.htm Museum of Banjicas WW2 Camp, Veljka Lukica-Kurjaka 33 History Museum of Serbia, Nemanjina 24 Museum of African Art, 14 Andre Nikolia, 265-1654 Masks, ancestral figures, tapestries, ceramics, musical instruments, bronze sculpture. Daily from 10AM ­ 6 PM, except Sundays from 10 AM ­ 4 PM Museum of Film Archive, Kosovska 11 www.kinoteka.rs/ Museum of Old Cars, 30 Majke Jevrosime, 3241-566, daily from 11 AM ­ 7 PM. Closed Mondays. Railway Museum (covers the period 1849-1918) Nemanjina 6, 9AM ­ 2PM weekdays only National Sciences Museum, Njegoseva 51, 344-2149

Walks in and around Belgrade By the Sava in front of the Museum of Contemporary Art in front of the Belgrade Fair By the Danube in front of Hotel Jugoslavija in front of the Sports Centre 25 Maj by the restaurant Venecija in Zemun Zemun old town restaurants along the river Places to Visit Outside of Belgrade Serbia has a wealth of castles, such as Smederevo Castle on the Danube, which is Serbias last medieval fortress, and Petrovaradin Citadel at Novi Sad, one of Europes great baroque fortresses. Mount Avala (512 meters high) There are magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. Northernmost point of the Sumadian mountains, named after the Turkish havala (hill or rising), is about 15 km south of Belgrade. Its the location of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, killed in the defense of Avala during the retreat of the Serbian Army in 1915, which was designed by

38 Mestrovi, the renowned Yugoslav sculptor. It is also the site of the monument to the Soviet World War II Veterans who died in an air crash when returning to Belgrade to celebrate Liberation Day in 1964. Fruska Gora is a favorite picnic site located about 69 kilometres from Belgrade (located to the left, small hills overlooking Novi Sad). There are many monasteries to visit in this pretty region (7) including Hopovo and Krusedol. Good walks on main east/west ridgeline. www.fruskagora-natl-park.rs Grocka is 29 km from Belgrade on the road to Smederevo and is situated on the bank of the Danube among vineyards and orchards. It also has sandy beaches.

Golubac A beautiful ruin on the banks of the Danube near the Romanian border (east of Belgrade past Pozarevac). A great sight for a day trip as it takes about 2 hours to drive to from Belgrade through pretty countryside ­ stop at the Toma Restaurant on the left side of the road about 10 minutes drive farther from the ruin itself. Good traditional Serbian food.

Kovacica is a popular place for a day out (45kms north of Belgrade). The road runs through flat-but-picturesque, rural countryside. The small town has typical peasant homes. It is primarily noted for its local artists, who paint the popular naïve or primitive canvasses. There is a very small museum, but paintings may also be seen in the homes of the artists. The quantity and quality of the work varies, and artists may be found working in the fields at any given time. Visit the museum and ask for directions to the artist that appeals to you. Monasteries of Serbia. The most famous are Manasija and Ravanica, Studenica, Sopoani, ia, Milesevo, Graanica, Deani, and the Patriarchate of Pe. Although the many monasteries lie a little off the beaten track, they are all easily accessible. Rakovica, a suburb of Belgrade, also boasts a monastery worth visiting ­ see below. Novi Sad, a major city with its own university and cultural life, is the capital of Vojvodina - about 80km northwest of Belgrade. The principal attraction is Petrovaradin Fortress, built on a hill overlooking the Danube. Obedska Bara is a lake surrounded by woods with a bird sanctuary. Rakovica Monastery. Located 12km south of Belgrade and first mentioned in 1502, the Rakovica Monastery played an important role in the religious, social, and historical life of Serbia. The monastery church (mid-16th century) is of the Morava school of Serbian architecture and contains the tombs of Jevrem and Tomanija Obrenovi and General Milivoje Blaznavac. The iconostasis (1862) was financed by Prince Mihailo Obrenovi. Many outstanding works by Serbian goldsmiths, as well as a collection of 18th and 19th century icons, are kept in the monasterys treasury. Romantika Train. See www.yurail.rs for the summer timetable. This year the Romantika train will visit (on varying weekends) Vrnjaa Banja, Smederevo, Sremski Karlovci and Vrsac. Sarganska Osmica (Sargan Eight) Railway. This route was built in 4 years, starting in 1921. The route crosses the rocky gorges, steep cuttings, and slopes of the Tara,

39 Zlatibor, and Sargan mountains on a narrow-gauge line which runs in the shape of a number eight - the only way to resolve the 300m difference in altitude between Mokra Goran and Sargan - comprising 15.5 kilometres including 22 tunnels, 10 bridges, and viaducts. Until its closure in 1974, the line connected Belgrade with Sarajevo and Dubrovnik. In the late nineties work began to clear the route and make it passable again, and the train now operates daily in the summer months, usually until September, leaving Mokra Gora at 10:30 AM (best to get there by 10 AM) and returning about 1 PM. Nowadays, it is normally pulled by a diesel with the steam engine being kept for special occasions. Tickets cost 500 Dinars per adult. Further information can be obtained on 031 510-288 or http://www.serbianrailways.com/ Sirogojno. A village situated on the slopes of Zlatibor. It is a living museum of folk architecture, a treasury of the cultural inheritance of this region. Local sweaters are for sale and usually available from November to May (during the summer the ladies work on the farm instead of knitting). Skiing. The largest ski resort is on Kopaonik (2,017 m/s/l) about 4 hours drive from Belgrade. Also Zlatibor (1,100 m/s/l) and abljak on Durmitor Mt. (2,500 m/s/l). Topola, the burial place of Serbias kings, is 85 km from Belgrade. It is the historical site of the first Serbian uprising against the Turks with an old church, museum, and monument. Above Topola is the church of Oplenac, which is decorated with some of the best mosaics in former Yugoslavia. Home of the Oplenac vineyards. Aleksandrovac there is one of Serbias best wineries. For guide in English, arrange in advance with [email protected] Also see the website at www.topolaoplenac.rs Vinca is one of the largest prehistoric settlements in Europe, located about 14km by road from Belgrade on the way to Smederevo. It can also be reached by boat along the Danube. The oldest remnants (about 10m below ground level) show that Vina was populated around 5500 to 5000 years BC and became a large economic, cultural, and religious center around 4500 to 3500 BC. Finds include tools, armaments, crockery, skillfully modelled statuettes, and jewellery. The archaeological site and museum are open from May to September, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Tel: 3343-460. A tour leaves from Nikola Pasi Square every Saturday at 11:00 AM and lasts 180 minutes and includes King Aleksandar Boulevard, Smederevo Road, village of Vina, and the archaeological site, and some leisure time. Vrnjacka Banja is in the central part of Serbia about 200 km south of Belgrade. The spa is situated among the wooded foothills of Mount Go, which slopes gently into the Zapadno Pomoravlje region. It has a long tradition as a health resort and recreational centre. www.vrnjackabanja.rs Serbia has numerous spa (banja) resorts with thermal and mineral water, as well as specialised health resorts, usually located amidst beautiful scenery. Take a look at websites www.vrnjackabanja.rs www.bukovickabanja.com and www.sokobanja.rs for information on three of the most popular of Serbias spa resorts. Museums Outside of Belgrade Iron Gates Archaeological Museum Trg Kralja Petra, 19320, Kladovo phone: (+381) 11/330.60.52, 19/811.30 ext. 2311

40 Lepenski Vir Museum Boljetin village, 19220 Donji Milanovac phone: (+381) 63/206.271 contact Routes to Follow

River route from Novi Sad to Baka Palanka to Apatin. Western boundary with Eastern Slavonija. Subotica. En route to Budapest. Good museum in Town Hall. Wine area in Pali. Belgrade to Panevo-Kovin-Bela Crkva-Vrsac (small fort). Bela Crkva ­ Banatska Palanka. Ferry across river. 3 times daily at 8:00, 11:00 and 15:00. Opposite direction 7:00, 10:00 and 14:00. Belgrade to Smederevo. Visit the fort. Poarevac (Milosevis hometown). Veliko Gradiste on the Danube. Take route close to river. Golubac fort and view of Romania and on to Donji Milanovac. One star hotel to stay and continue on down river to Djerdap (Iron Gates), Traianas Stone, Lepenski Vir museum and ancient civilisation remains. Nis-Pirot-Zajear-Bor. Take minor roads north from Pirot through beautiful remote and unspoilt countryside. Do not miss Poganovo Monastery (gem under UN protection). Kilims can sometimes be bought on road leaving Pirot from Sofia. Belgrade-Sabac-Loznica and then route along Drina Valley and border with Bosnia & Herzegovina to Bajina Basta National Park. Valjevo and south to Divibare. Good walking area with simple hotels. Ravna Gora area where the etniks held out in World War II. Kragujevac ­ Remembrance Park and museum about massacre by Germans of local men and children in October 1941. Scottish Nurses Memorial from typhoid epidemic of World War I. Home of Zastava cars. Belgrade-aak-Krusevac-Jagodina. Central area known as Sumadija (Serbian Midlands). Serbia has numerous spa (banja) resorts, with thermal and mineral water, as well as specialised health resorts, usually located amidst beautiful scenery. Take a look at websites www.vrnjackabanja.rs, www.bukovickabanja.com and www.sokobanja.rsfor information on three of the most popular of Serbias spa resorts.

Distances from Belgrade to: Novi Sad Vrsac Subotica Sofia Budapest Skopje Podgorica 85 km 84 km 178 km 380 km 393 km 440 km 460 km Prague Munich Warsaw Athens Rome Bucharest Vienna 943 km 1,020 km 1,100 km 1,198 km 1,648 km 769 km 850 km

41 Travel Agencies The staff at most large travel agencies speak English. The following is a list of some of the major agencies in Belgrade: Odeon Travel & Service - Carlson Wagonlit Address: Kneza Milosa 80 Telephones: Travel packages bookings: + 381 11 361 00 11 Air tickets counter: + 381 11 361 02 50 or + 381 11 361 02 51 or + 381 11 361 02 52 E-mail addresses: Company manager: Travel packages bookings: Air tickets counter: Working time:

[email protected] [email protected] or [email protected] [email protected] 8 AM ­ 8 PM, Monday-Friday 9 AM ­ 4 PM Saturday Tel: 3345015 Tel: 328 17 15 Tel: 3232-591 Tel: 3344-987 Tel: 3248-077 Tel: 328-1303 Tel: 3113-313 Tel: 3232-372 Tel: 3034-944 Tel: 3030-140

Unidea, Krunska 10 Kompas, 26/I Obiliev Venac Putnik, Dragoslava Jovanovia 1 Yugotours, Dragoslava Jovanovia 11 Austrian Airlines British Airways, Knez Mihailova 30 JAT - Bookings JAT - Tickets, Bul. Kralja Aleksandra 17 Lufthansa Swissair

There are at-least-daily flights out of Belgrade to: Amsterdam Athens Dusseldorf Frankfurt Istanbul London Milan Moscow Munich Prague Rome Sarajevo Skopje Tivat Vienna Podgorica Paris

..as well as flights to most other major European cities several times per week. For more information, visit the very professional website (in English) for the Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport at: http://www.airport-belgrade.rs/code/navigate.php?Id=54, which has a constantly updated "arrivals and departures" page to check if flights are on time, a listing of all airlines servicing Belgrade with the addresses, phone numbers, and working hours of the airlines' offices, as well as other useful information.

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Useful Travel phone numbers: Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport: 209-4444, 064 8485 402, or 063 255 066 Railway station: Switchboard - 361-6722, Call Center - 360-2899 Railroad company website: http://www.zeleznicesrbije.com/active/en/home.html (in English) - (unfortunately, presently the railway is in very bad shape and not recommended).

LEISURE ACTIVITIES "Beogradski Izlog"/Bilet servis (The Belgrade Shop Window), a cultural center in Republic Square, has information on entertainment and sells concert and theatre tickets. Contact number: 2628-342 www.biletservis.rs Concert Halls Atrium of the National Museum, Trg Republike 1 (closed for renovations until 2010) Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22 Kolarac, Studentski Trg 5 (reasonable season tickets: http://www.bgf.rs/_english/) Sava Centre, M. Popovia 9: http://www.savacentar.com/eng/index.jsp?lang=en Dom Sindikata, Trg Nikole Pasia 5 Theatres Atelje 212, Svetogorska 2a, Tel: 324-7342, www.atelje212.rs Belgrade Drama Theatre, Milesevska 64, Tel:2835-111, www.bdp.rs Bitef Theatre, Skver Mire Trailovic 1, Tel: 3220-608, www.bitef.rs Jugoslav Drama Theatre,Kralja Milana 50,Tel:3061-957, www.jdp.rs National Theatre, Francuska 3, Tel: 2620-946, www.narodnopozoriste.rs Kamera Opera Madlenianum, Glavna ul. Zemun, Tel. 3162-533, http://www.madlenianum.rs/en/index.php Pozoriste na Terazijama, Trg Nikole Pasia 3, Tel: 3229-943, www.pozoristeterazije.com Zvezdara Theatre, Milana Rakia 38, Tel: 2419-664, www.zvezdarateatar.rs

Movie theaters (4 Largest and most modern are at top of the list...)

STER CINEMAS (Delta City) Address: Jurija Gagarina 16, 10070 Novi Beograd, Phone: +381 11 2203400

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KOLOSEJ MULTIPLEX CINEMA (Usce TC) Address: Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4 ,11070 Novi Beograd , Phone: +381.285.45.05 TUCKWOOD CINEPLEX Address: Kneza Milosa 7, Phone: +381 11 323-6517 RODA CINEPLEX Address: Poeska 83a, Beograd, Phone: +381 11 542-260 SUMADIJA PALACE Address: Turgenjevljeva 5, Phone: +381 11 555-465 KINOTEKA (Yugoslav Film Archive) Address: Kosovska 11, Phone: +381 11 324-8250 SAVA CENTAR Address: Milentija Popovia 9, Phone: +381 11 311-4322 DOM SINDIKATA Address: Trg Nikole Pasia 5, Phone: +381 11 3234-849 AKADEMIJA 28 BIOSKOP Address: Nemanjina 28, Beograd, Phone: +381 11 3611-644 BALKAN Address: Brae Jugovia 16, Phone: +381 11 3343-491 DVORANA KCB Address: 6, Phone: +381 11 2621-174 DOM OMLADINE Address: Makedonska 22, Phone: +381 11 3248-202 DKC Address: Kolarceva 6, Beograd, Phone: +381 11 621-174 KOZARA Address: Terazije 25, Phone: +381 11 3235-648 KOSMAJ Address: Terazije 11, Phone: +381 11 3227-279 ZVEZDA Address: Terazije 40, Phone: +381 11 687-320 JADRAN Address: Trg Republike 5, Phone: +381 11 624-057 MASLESA Address: Resavska 78, Phone: +381 11 361-1866 ODEON Address: Narodnog fronta 45, Phone: +381 11 643-355 MALI ODEON Address: Kneza Milosa 14-16, Phone: +381 11 643-280 ART BIOSKOP MUSEUM Address: Uzun Mirkova 2, Phone: +381 11 3281-888 VUK Address: Kralja Aleksandra 77a, Phone: +381 11 422-012

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JUGOSLAVIJA Address: Bulevar Mihaila Pupina bb, Phone: +381 11 676-484 MALA KOZARA Address: Ivana Ribara 91-93

MILLENNIUM Address: Knez Mihailova 19 SLOBODA Address: Glavna 15, Zemun, Phone: +381 11 618-126 FONTANA Address: Pariske komune 13, Phone: +381 11 602-397 CITY ACADEMIC Address: Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, Phone: +381 11 691-442 OKTOBAR Address: Balkanska 2, Phone: +381 11 687-182 DK STUDENTSKI GRAD Address: Studentska, Phone: +381 11 269-8222

English Language resources It is possible to subscribe to English language newspapers and journals through Global Press, tel. 276 4538, website http://www.globalpress.rs Alternatively subscribe to Beta News Agency to access a news service by computer. All information on using this service in English can be obtained from tel. 3602461 or www.beta.rs Foreign citizen residents in Serbia can access selection of books available at the National Library at 4 Skerlieva, which is close to St. Savas church. An ID or passport is sufficient to receive membership, allowing access to a wide range of local and foreign books and other publications. Information is available on tel. 2451-242 or web www.nbs.bg.rs Cultural Life ­ Foreign Cultural Centers

The American Corner Dom Omladine Makedonska 22/I 11000 Belgrade tel: +381­11­3227-694 e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.ac-belgrade.net

Working hours: Monday-Friday: 2 PM-7 PM The general public has access to American reference materials and literature books, periodicals, CD-ROMs, and the Internet. The American Corner in Belgrade hosts about 12 programs per month & has a library of 2000 books in English and over 200 books in English for children. Membership is free and allows access to borrowing books and participating in a wide variety of events and programs in English and Serbian including English conversation hours, debate club, literary circle, current event discussions, and more.

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The British Council Library Terazije8/1, tel. 3023-800

www.britishcouncil.rs

Membership is 2,700 dinars per year and covers books, videos, DVDs, and access to the information center. Public hours: Mondays to Fridays from 12 noon to 6PM and Saturdays from 10AM to 3 PM. The British Council connects people worldwide with learning opportunities and creative ideas and builds lasting relationships between the UK and other countries. The British Council has been present in Serbia since 1940. Belgrade was among the first eight cities where the British Council started its overseas work. Please see the British Council website for a list of available DVDs. French Cultural Center, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 630-666, www.ccf.rs Goethe Institute, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 622-823, http://www.goethe.de/ins/cs/bel/srindex.htm Large public library with books, magazines, newspapers, CDs, and videos. Italian Cultural Center, Kneza Milosa 56, tel. 362-9435 www.italcultbg.rs Various cultural activities including films, concerts, shows, literary meetings, scholarships, and research assistance for students. Canadian Cultural Center, Kneza Milosa 75, tel. 644-666 Russian Home, Narodnog fronta 33, tel. 642-178, http://www.rcnk.rs/

Here are some Language Teachers recommended by other ISB families in Belgrade: Zoran Gaci Mira Danilovi Francuska 53 Institute for Foreign Languages Masha Selimovi Head of the Serbian Department Gospodar Jovanova 35 tel. 754-493/mobile 064 117 0787 tel. 187-217/mobile 064 120 1243 e-mail: [email protected] tel. 2623-022/034 tel. 2621-129 www.isj.rs

www.serbianschool.com provides on-line Serbian language instruction. It remembers where you left off in your previous lesson and picks up at that point.

Sports Activities

The following sports facilities are a small selection of what is available in Belgrade:

Fitness Centers:

http://www.nadlanu.com/Dynamic/ListAddress,intLangID,2,intCat egoryID,239.html

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Banjica Sports Centre Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999, 2668-711 (Water Polo Club "Partizan"). The center has an enclosed Olympic swimming pool (with 2,000 sitting and 1,000 standing places for spectators), two open Olympic swimming pools, and 6 tennis courts. The center has a medical center, sauna, hydro-massage, recreation room, & weight room. It is designed for sport competitions: water polo, swimming, synchronized swimming, as well as tennis tournaments. Membership fee varies according to standard, silver, gold, or VIP card, as well as the length of membership taken out. Contact Aleksandar Sostar or Biljana Mili, tel. 2668-143, or e-mail [email protected] for info. Club Olympus Fitness Centre & Spa Hyatt Hotel, Milentija Popovia 5, New Belgrade Tel: 301 1107 or 064 290 6282, Olgica Misi. Facilities include indoor heated pool, jacuzzi, steam sauna, and effusion showers. In the gym qualified counselors prepare personalised programs using a combination of high-tech cardio-stations and free weight equipment. In addition exercise classes include step aerobics, fitball, Pilates, yoga, and aerobics ­ available to non-members, too. In the spa rooms you can either choose for yourself from the treatment menu or in private consultation with a qualified therapist. The spa rooms have been individually designed and equipped with dimmed lighting, shower, and soothing music, and are also available to non-members. Diplomatic membership available. Family membership can also be arranged. It should be noted that the Hyatt now charges 30 dinars an hour for car parking. Colonial Sun Tennis Club Bulevar Vojvode Putnika 32-34, tel. 369 2156; 369 1150, Club Hours: 8 AM ­ midnight. Also gym, football and aerobics hall, swimming pool, and a restaurant. Continental Hotel, New Belgrade, http://www.ichbg.com/, Vladimira Popovica 10, 11070 Belgrade, Tel: +381/11/220-42-04, Fax: +381/11/311-14-02. The Continental hotel Sports Center includes a 20-meter long indoor swimming pool on the hotel ground floor, sauna, massage, bar, open air tennis court, & fitness center, where its possible to obtain membership. The Diplomatic Club Bulevar Oslobodjenja 317 (JNA), tel. 309-5000. Included in membership: gym and aerobics: Mon, Wed, Fri; sauna, small open air swimming pool. Also available for an additional fee are tennis courts (2 covered during winter months) and tennis coach. Additional facilities include a childrens playground, free parking, garden, restaurant and bar, and regular exhibitions and events. Oftentimes Happy Hours on Fridays, 6 PM ­ 8 PM (open to non-members) Flex Fitness Studio Ljutice Bogdana 38, tel. 2667-516

47 Gemax Veljka Lukica Kurjaka bb, tel. 306 1813. Subscription includes gym, swimming, sauna, jacuzzi. Restaurant and sports shop available. [email protected]

PowerGym Steve Todorovia 32, tel. 354-5935, (aerobic, pilates, and step classes + gym) www.powergym.rs

The Wellness Land

Boidara Adije 25, 11000 Beograd; http://www.thewellnessland.com/eng/wellnes_land.htm Tel: 011/3444-544; fax: 011/3444-548

Located in the heart of the city, The WellnessLand offers a fitness zone equipped with highend Technogym tools, a wide aerobic facility with spinning and Pilates equipment, locker rooms with saunas, a pool, and many other amenities.

Zvezda City Oaza Ada Ciganlija, 5, 355-4652, [email protected] or price list: http://www.zvezdaada.rs/index.php?page=cenovnik&item=123&get_treerot=110&rbr=1, indoor pool, fitness center, classes, nursery school for children starting at age 1. Other Sports Facilities Badminton Contact the Badminton Club of Belgrade for details. Radomir on mobile 064 167 5228 or Jovan on mobile 064 158 6555. Both speak English. Bowling First Bowling, Gradski Park 2 (Hala Pinki)Zemun, tel. 377 1612, 800-1350 Dinar per lane/hour Monday thru Thursday ; 1600 Dinar per lane/hour on Fridays and weekends. Colosseum Bowling, Dobanovaka 56, Zemun, Tel.316-5403, www.colosseumbowling.com 800-1320 Dinar per lane per hour Monday thru Thursday, 1620 Dinar per lane per hour on Fridays and weekends. Kolosej Lounge&Play Bowling Center, www.kolosej.rs, Delta City Shopping Mall & Usce Shiopping Mall, New Belgrade, 2nd Floor, tel: 011 3129 940; ; 011 3129 944; offers light sports and social activities such as bowling, billiard, lasertag shooting, and video arcade with music and a variety of refreshments. MONTHU/SUN ­ 9 AM - midnight; FRI/SAT ­ 9 AM ­ 2 AM Football Stadiums In Belgrade there are two rival football clubs, Red Star (Crvena Zvezda) and Partizan, each with its own stadium. In addition, they each have volleyball and basketball teams. Nevertheless, football is the main attraction, and for the keen football fan this is an opportunity not to be missed!

48 Stadium FC Crvena Zvezda (Red Star), Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel: 667-2062 website: www.fc-redstar.net Stadium JNA FC Partizan, Humska 1, tel: 2648-222, website: http://www.partizan.rs/home.php?Jezik=en The best fixture list is on Partizan's site: click on 'competitions' on the tool bar at the top right and then 'fixtures'. Matches are listed round by round. Flying Lessons JATs Vrsac-based flying school offers the possibility of obtaining a basic pilots licence. Information on 013 812-185 Go-carting ,,Floyd indoor go-carting, Mostarska Petlja (under Gazela bridge), modern, asphalt track, races last 8 mins and cost 400 dins, electrically powered carts, refreshments, and bar.

Golf The first professional 10-hectare golf course on Ada Ciganlija finished in early June 2003 with nine holes. Main organiser of the project was the Belgrade Golf Club (www.golfclub.co.yu) and Aleksandar Andjelkovi. Tihomir Bikiki from Australia is the professional coach. Tel. 063-896-3816 Hiking, Mountaineering, Cycling ACE Cycling & Mountaineering Centre is a non-profit organization founded in 1993 to promote and educate the public in these activities. Weekend hiking and cycling guided tours are organized the whole year round in Serbia and are designed for people wanting to see the country, its culture, food, folklore, and history, while spending an active weekend out of the city. Contact Misa Koli for details at ACE, B. Krsmanovia 51/8, Nis. Tel: 064 247-6311, Fax: 018 325-852, e-mail [email protected] or try www.ace-adventurecentre.com Horse Racing Hippodrome, Pastrovia 2, Tel: 3546-834, 3546-826 Summer horse racing every Sunday afternoon. Horseback Riding Konjicki klub `Beograd', Pastrovieva 2, 11030 Beograd. tel: 011/355 3550 or 0637636387. Call Vanja ­ she speaks good English and the horses/ponies are in great condition. Email [email protected] or [email protected] Cost is 8800 Dinars for 10 lessons (lessons last 1 hour). Skola Jahanja Aleksa Dundi, Pastrovieva, Beograd, tel. 011/266-5675. Near the hippodrome is the oldest riding school in former Yugoslavia. Qualified staff. Call Mirko Firfri.

49 Ice Skating Learn to skate all year round at the Pionir sports centre, arlija aplina 39, tel. 2766566, A number of open-air rinks, including at Tasmajdan, Beogradski Sajam (between Halls 2 and 3), next to McDonalds in Vidikovac neighbourhood, and beside Hotel Jugoslavija in New Belgrade. Boots available for hire. Open in winter only.

Jet Skiing Eurojetsport Mavanska 28, Tel. 306-5340, E-mail [email protected], Web www.eurojetsport.com Karate Karate Klub Diplomatik, at the Diplomatic Club, Coach Nikola Stevanovic, mobile: 063/568734. Rowing Red Star Club at Ada Ciganlija 3, Tel 3554 652; Vladan Milosavljevic, coach-063 269 410 Sessions are on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Or recreational on weekends at 12:30 PM. It is expected that participants be able to make it to sessions regularly. Usually starts with some running, a weight workout, and then rowing, either on the river or on the indoor equipment. Most of the trainers speak English. Soccer School "Slodes" Sports Centre, Borska 92f. Mr Sinisa Ruii is the contact/organiser. His mobile number is: 064 254 4797. Squash SquashLand, Pionirski grad, Kosutnjak tel: 065-855-8558, e-mail: [email protected] website: www.squash.rs/squashland.php Public Swimming Pools Tasmajdan, Ilije Garasanina 26, tel. 324-0901 25. Maj, Tadeusa Kosuka 63, tel. 2622-866 11. April, Autoput 2, New Belgrade, tel. 2672-939 Kosutnjak, Kneza Viseslava 72, tel. 3548-040 Banjica Sports Center, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999, 2668-711 (Water Polo Club "Partizan) Yoga Teacher Helena Rebernisak, lives in Belgrade. tel. 2637-291 Over 150 sports organizations and clubs can be found at http://www.krstarica.com/eng/catalog/Sports/Organizations_and_Clubs/

Children's Activities

Belgrade Zoo Open during the winter time from 8am until 5 pm, during the summer from 8am until

50

8pm. Entrance fee for adults (older then 15 years) is 300 DIN, entrance fee for children older then 3 years is 200 DIN, children younger then 3 years are for free. There is an annual fee as follow: Whole family (adults, grandparents, children) pays 5000 DIN, one family person (mum or dad) pays 3000 DIN, one child (between 3 and 15 years old) pays 2000 DIN. Go to www.beozoovrt.izlog.org where you can find a lot of information about the zoo, unfortunately almost everything is in Serbian, but on the navigation system on the left is written: English info. Here you can find the history of the zoo, the working hours and the entrance fee.

Casper's (near Kalini market) Childrens parties ­ animators and a coffee area for parents Topolska 22 Owner - Luka tel. 2455-497, mob. 064 249-3474 Circus, Childrens indoor play center, Delta City Shopping Mall, Second Floor, Store 314, tel:

011 2203 866; 2203 867, MON-SUN - 10:00-22:00

Extreme Kids Cvijeeva 1 (couple of streets down from 29th November police station) Adresa: Cvijieva 1, lok. 109 (PC ABC) Telefon: 011/2768-255 lok. 109 i 110, 063/7368-348 Similar to Puff Puff. It has a childrens area with balls and climbing frames and a section where they can just sit and draw, an area for parties (although this is not completely separate from the main play area), and an area for adults. Eko Park Adresa: 106 Bulevar Mihajla Pupina st. , lok 47 Telefon: 311-5463, 064/229-75-72 www.ekopark.rs

Igor the Magician Excellent ­ the Balkans champion, available for hire for parties. tel. 063 360-936 Klovn Pera, 064-128-2514, www.peraklovn.freeservers.com. Well-known clown for hire for birthday parties. Speaks English and Serbian, performs, makes balloon animals, and leads games. Kockica Gradski Park 2 (Hala Pinki) Zemun tel. 316 48 47 Kids indoor play area a bit like Puf Puf, non-smoking. Liliput Partizanska 62E, Vidikovac Tel. 234-9074 Open Monday ­ Friday, 2 PM ­ 9 PM, and Saturday and Sunday, 9 AM ­ 9 PM. Very clean, new looking play area for kids and café for adults. For a birthday there, you can bring in your own food, but you buy the drinks from them. Located just past the

51 McDonalds in Vidikovac, turn left at the light after McDs (not right next to McDonalds but the next one), and you will see it on your left. Also available just to come and play for the afternoon.

Puf Puf Children's Café, behind Mercator in New Belgrade, arranges parties and is a good place to leave the children under supervision, toddlers to seven years, while you do your shopping providing you leave one adult, too. Working hours 2:30 PM - 8:30 PM & on Saturdays 12 noon - 8:30 PM, Address: 165a Bulevar Mihaila Pupina (building Jugoagenta), Tel: 011/311-0147, 3111-793 Sati Childrens parties, Jove Ilia 86 (parallel with Vojvode Stepe), tel. 397-3317, 471-341, 309-5115, mob. 064 112 8159 Studio 91/1 Makenzijeva 91/1, 011-245-3396 Every Wednesday from 1 ­ 5 PM you may come and paint ready-made pots, plates, bowls, or cups with your own designs and colors. They will fire your work, and you may pick it up in a week. Prices range from 10 ­ 20 Euros/piece depending on the size. Great gifts for grandparents and fun afternoon activity for the kids. Also offer ceramics classes for kids and adults. Technokids ­ www.tehnokids.com/, a playground for big & small kids, Technokids can

host birthday parties, and they cater. Dobropoljska 2 (near Autokomanda) 011 36 999 77, Tel:063/712-7222, 063/259-189, 011/36-999-77, 062/514.825 (Ljuba), 063/247.360 (Lela)

Zamak (Play Castle), Zemun Near Hotel Jugoslavia and next to the lunar park. A good place for the children to jump about and get rid of some excess energy. Children under 10 years only at 250 dinars each for as long as you like. Inside are animators and a bouncy castle area, as well as a café for the grown-ups. The scoop ice creams in a bowl are a good buy, and they come with little plastic animals, swords and flags. A note of caution: Zamak is open-air, and there is little shade so its not a good idea to go along at midday in the summer heat.

Clubs for Foreigners

International Women's Club of Belgrade - Meets on the first Tuesday of each month and offers a variety of social activities for foreigners living in Belgrade including welcoming newcomers and enhancing cultural exchange. For more information go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/iwcbelgrade/ Belgrade Accueil ­ A social club "en francais" to help you get acquainted with Belgrade and meet other French speakers. http://belgradeaccueil.canalblog.com/

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USEFUL TIPS ON SERBIAN HABITS & CUSTOMS

Flowers When buying flowers remember to take an odd number of flowers when giving to any living being, but an even number of flowers if going to a funeral or to the cemetery. Slava A Slava is the celebration of a saints day and is one of, if not the most important, festivity for every family. When going to a Slava one usually gives a bottle of alcohol to the host, and flowers to the hostess, but ensure you take a bunch with an uneven number of stems, as even numbered bunches are for laying on graves. Scheduling business/mission dinners on such days should be avoided. Adage: one half of Belgrade celebrates St. Nicholas (19 December), the other half goes to it. Another mass Slava is St Georges Day on May 6th. Greetings People kiss three times on the cheek. Business Lunch Lunch is usually not around 12 noon but around 3 PM. Eating Habits Rather heavy meals with no distinction between supper and dinner (formal, that is sit down, versus informal). Heavy meat consumption in Serbia. Vegetarian Restaurant A rarity in Belgrade but do try Priroda macrobiotic-vegetarian restaurant on Batutova Street (on the green near the Zvezdara Theatre), tel. 2411-890. Coffee Coffee is taken anytime over tea. Not a big tea drinking culture exists, and, consequently, cafes will usually only serve herbal teas such as camomile, linden, mint, rose hip. Adage: "only drink tea when ill." Paying the Bill It is often the case that one person pays for all, and it is always the case that whoever did the inviting to lunch/drinks picks up the bill. Non-smoking Smoking is not allowed on public transport although the bus driver himself may take no notice of the sign above his head. A non-smoking policy exists in a few places, but it is generally disregarded. It seldom happens that people ask for permission to smoke in ones company ­ they usually just light up. Calendar While the country operates on the universally accepted Gregorian calendar, important church holidays, e.g. Christmas, use the Julian calendar, and this event occurs, therefore, two weeks after the Gregorian (e.g., Serbian New Years Eve takes place on January 13th).

53 Serbian Orthodox Religion The majority of the population of Belgrade who practice their religion do so within the Serbian Orthodox Church (SOC). This is from a "family of churches," such as the Greek and the Russian, which share common doctrines and practices. It is selfgoverning under its Patriarch. There are some differences between the Orthodox Church and Churches in the western world, which are worth noting. Calendar The SOC reckons its dates by the Julian, or ,,old calendar, although the state keeps to the Gregorian, or ,,new one. This is often shown in print as both dates (i.e. Christmas Day, Dec 25/Jan 7; St Nicholas, Dec 6/19). The date of Easter is also reckoned differently, and although this can coincide in both east and west, the Orthodox celebration is usually anything from 1 to 7 weeks after the Western one. Fasting This practice is worth keeping in mind if you invite Orthodox Christians to eat with you. There are 4 periods within the year when they will not eat meat, dairy products, eggs, chocolate or food prepared with margarine. These periods of fasting are: The Christmas fasting period called "Bozini post" lasts for six weeks leading up to the Orthodox Christmas - 7 January; The Easter fast, "Veliki post," starts seven weeks before Easter. Easter Sunday, unlike Christmas, is dependent upon the church calendar, and, therefore, has no fixed date; The third fasting period is called "Petrov post." In 2004, it took place from June 7th until 11th, leading up to St. Peters Day on July 12th. As per Easter, St. Peters Day is dependent upon the church calendar, and, therefore, is not a fixed date; The fourth fasting period is "Veliko Gospoinski post." This fast lasts from August 13th to 27th, leading up to August 28th and the holy day marking the death of the Virgin Mary. Like Christmas, this date is fixed. It is sensible to ask what a person is happy or unhappy to eat although no offense is usually taken if you are not aware of their rules. Liturgy The main church service is known as the Liturgy. In Belgrade church services begin at 9 or 9:30 AM. and will last for up to two hours ­ though not everyone stays until the end. Generally men and women stand on different sides of the church, though this is not enforced. Unless you are Orthodox, you will not be expected to receive communion. Ladies are encouraged to wear a head covering in church, and in summer, shorts or sleeveless shirts are unacceptable. This last point is valid even when you visit a church outside of service times.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Check out the following publications and websites: HitProm Magazine This magazine is in English and specialized for a real estate for CD and other EX-Pats leaving in Belgrade, including DIPOS properties and informations about moving etc. It is distributed complimentary to all Embassies, Consulates, and foreign companies in Belgrade and in Serbia, locally. www.beligrad.com/index.html This is a handy website with lots of great information. You can even puchase their

54 "How to Conquer Belgrade" book via one of the links on their site. http://www.b92.net/eng/ Serbian News in English. http://www.expat.rs/ Good website for expats living in Serbia, including lists of restaurants, medical services, and all kinds of other stuff. Good place to find the address or phone number of a place someone recommends to you. http://www.beograd.rs/ Website of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade. Good tips and info about various sites in Belgrade. http://www.serbia-tourism.org/index Website of the National Tourist Organization of Serbia. Welcome to Belgrade magazine and website www.tob.rs Helpful quarterly magazine from the Belgrade Tourist Organization with info on tours, sites, restaurants, shopping, etc. www.Yellowcab.rs Entertainment Pages (Serbian Only) which show films and movie times, but is not always accurate. Yellow Pages-Type Site: www.011info.com Belgrade Information http://www.krstarica.com/eng/ http://www.belgradeeye.com/index.html is another English-language guide of Belgrade.

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