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William on 2007-11-20 at 00:50:30


(Roadfly member #18312; Roadfly Inner Circle member since 2003-07-15)

540 Zionsville HD Install DIY with photos (no 56K)

(249 views) (338 thread views)

Message: Note that this is what I did. I am not responsible if you get hurt, of if your car suffers damage as

a result of this DIY. I am just sharing what I did hoping this will help you plan your own work/install. My car recently had some cooling system trouble, and I opted for a complete overhaul with a Zionsville Heavy Duty System with the all aluminum radiator, expansion tank, and the two-speed fan: link to radiator failure ... I changed pretty much everything: - radiator - expansion tank and new expansion tank cap - main radiator hoses - hoses to the auto tranny heat exchanger - hoses to/from the water-cooled alternator - the remaining 3 hoses for the heater (one was changed a month and a half ago when it leaked) - water pump (need the gasket and the o-rings) - t-stat and housing (don't forget the o-ring that goes with it) - new belts (there are two of them) - new belt tensioners (there are two of them ­ not exactly alike) - various o-rings and hose clamps - optionally you might also do the pulleys ­ remove belts and examine for looseness Recommended tools and accessories: - Bentley manuals ­ read the appropriate sections and have it handy as it has all of the torque specs - Standard socket set (most everything is metric) - Open end wrenches, specially the 10mm used to remove the lowest bolt on the water pump - Teflon tape for the sensors and metal fittings that go into the new aluminum radiator - Thermal grease (same as used for CPU heat sinks) for the fan's power resistor for low speed - Drill/bits to install the power resistor to the fender - 2 gallons of distilled water - 2 gallons of BMW Antifreeze/Coolant - Funnel and fluid pump for refilling the radiator - Oil change pan or other to collect used radiator fluid - Screwdrivers in various sizes for the hose clamps - Engine de-greaser to clean areas being worked (I use brake cleaner as it leaves no residue) - Anti-sieze compound/grease for the bolts - Torque wrench - Voltmeter, electrical tape, solder, soldering iron, wire cutters, etc., to install fan relays/wiring - Flexible wire harness/protector ­ get on car stereo section of your favorite store - Cable ties ­ we want a neat and secured wiring/relay install

Well, I would not call the install easy - certainly doable for any/all weekend mechanics such as myself. It is however a very time consuming install, and the documentation on the Zionsville is poor - I had to depend on the good will of prior installers who posted information/photos about their install to be able to complete mine. Hopefully my post will help some for future installs. As many have pointed out, the Zionsville is very, very expensive, but a work of art as well:

OK, lets start, and try to capture and properly dispose of the used fluid!: 0) Remove the Air Filter, MAF sensor, and intake "plastic" pieces all the way until the input butterfly - you will need this extra space to work on the water pump. 1) Remove the fan shroud - there is a sensor in there!

2) Remove the fan - remember that it is a reverser thread. A thin wrench and a good whack with a rubber mallet is all I needed to get the nut moving 3) Remove sensors attached to expansion tank and exit temperature, then remove expansion tank and the thin hose that goes to the expansion tank. Then, remove radiator - two clamps hold it in place. Clamps come out easy, but I used Vaseline (or generic!) to put them back:

4) Remove hoses from radiator 5) Once the radiator is "disconnected" lift and throw in the trash!. But seriously, you might need to tilt it side to side and/or diagonal to come out. Not too bad - getting the new one in was MUCH harder - but I am getting ahead of myself ... 6) Loosen the belt tensioners and remove both belts. 7) Remove both belt tensioner brackets, but most specially the one to the right of the water pump - you need the clearance to route one of the hoses that goes to the heat exchanger that sits underneath the alternator (at least on my automatic transmission-equipped 540). 8) There is a metal pipe in front of the water pump - this needs to be disconnected and moved out of the way. Two bolts hold it in place, one on each side, and one in the middle. The pipe is here in the bottom of this picture - be careful not to damage the o-rings on each end of the pipe:

9) Disconnect hoses to the t-stat housing and loosen the 4 bolts that tie it to the water pump housing. 10) Remove the 4 bolts that hold the water pump pulley to the water pump, and then remove the 6 bolts that hold the water pump in place. 5 of them are easy, but the one behind the harmonic balancer is a tough one which I removed with an old fashion 10mm wrench (since I did not wanted to remove the balancer!). Like it says in the Bentley manual, please be careful not to remove the two pipes connected to the top of the water pump, that run under the intake!

11) At this point, things should look like this:

12) Remove the last water hoses under the water pump which are now fully exposed 13) Using a razor or something similar, gently remove the old gasket material to insure a good seal when we put the new parts:

14) Here on the left is the old one:

15) One thing that I forgot to buy (I though the water pump came with them!), were these two o-rings. Don't bother trying to re-use them - they were no longer "O" shape, but rather flat!:

16) Before you put your new water pump, please install the hoses that sit underneath the water pump, specially the one that goes to the heat exchanger:

Before you try to install these, please disconnect the heat exchanger - two bolts keep it in place: one faces front, one faces the left front wheel. With the heat exchanger "mobile", you can also install the hoses that go to/from the water-cooled alternator. 17) Pretty much in the reverse order, install the hoses and the water pump with the new gasket - I used Vaseline to keep the gasket in place, and to "very" lightly lube the o-rings in all new hoses. Then install the belt tensioners, new belts, and re-install the metal tube that you removed to get the water pump out:

18) Pretty much all hoses have the new style "clip" with internal o-ring, except this hose that goes to the expansion tank which still uses a traditional hose clamp (all heater hoses are the same way, by the way):

19) Change the heater hoses. There are 4 of them, and it is easier if you remove the pump/actuator from its mount to gain additional clearance, and if you remove the air filter housing on the driver's side:

20) Prep the radiator for installation: - put both rubber mounts:

- install sensor for 2-way fan - don't forget the washer (not shown in this picture!):

- install the sensor from the fan shroud:

- If you have an automatic like I do, you will have this extra house and "L" fitting on the bottom, driver's side of the radiator:

- Install the float inside the aluminum expansion tank (but first remove it from the radiator assemble guess how I know to remove it first!). Make sure sensor is pointed towards the passenger side of the car when tight.

20) Install the new radiator. No, really - I dare you. Try it. You will swear it will never fit. Of course, I first removed the fan, but even without the fan, I think I spend like 20-30 minutes just trying to figure out a way to "slide" it in place!. I ended up doing it diagonally, and one side first - but in the end I still had to cut some plastic right above the driver's side mount point to give it full clearance:

Once the radiator is "in", install the two clamps (Vaseline helps!) and then take another break. You earned it!. It should look like this:

21) Start installing the rest of the hoses, and of course don't forget the lower left that goes to the heat exchanger, as shown in these pics:

22) Install the expansion tank's thin hose:

It should look like this:

23) Connect the sensors that go on the passenger side of the radiator (one for the expansion tank, one for the little black box that was on the fan shroud, and the temp sensor that goes in the output/lower hose of the radiator:

By the way, in my case, that last sensor, the one that goes here, the o-ring was bad/weak. Make sure that you check yours, or better yet, buy a new o-ring from the dealer (it is the GREEN one). I found an alternate one to get the system going, but the fit is not 100% perfect, so I am going tomorrow to pick up the correct o-ring:

24) Then fill the system with a 50% mix of distilled water and BMW coolant.

I used both a funnel to get some into the engine side, and then a fluid pump to get more into the radiator:

25) Install back the air intake, MAF, air filter, etc.. Re-install the electric fan, but no need to wire it yet ­ we do this later on. 26) Now comes the time consuming part of "burping" the gas out of the system, which is something that you do several times, 4-5 times. Start the car (note that you don't need the fan for this yet ­ this comes later). Start car, preferably with the front raised to help air bleeding, let it warm a little, slowly release the cap in the expansion tank ­ you will note the air escaping. Wait for the car to cool some, add more coolant (half-way the expansion tank, more or less), and repeat. You might want to even take a very short run up-down your street (you don't want to be left stranded far from your house, do you?) to get the car to warm up more. Keep burping air and adding coolant. Your car will even tell you (once the t-stat opens) to "check coolant level" or something like that. This means the process is working. Once you do this several times and there is no more air in the system, and there are no leaks, you can then take another well deserved break before tacking the wiring part of this project!. 27) Wiring of the electrical fan, relays, etc.. The diagram sent by the Zionsville folks is just OK, and although correct, it does not say "how" to do it. It just shows you what needs to be connected:

I am an electrical engineer, so I might do things a little bit different ­ there are many ways of wiring this system, so don't take my way as the only way. Be safe, and try to have everything secured, welded (not crimped!), and think about heat/vibration and anything else that might create a short. First, you need to find a place for the high wattage power resistor. Since I have a CAI and I have a duct that brings cold outside air right into my AFE filter, I decided to place the resistor in this "colder" cavity:

For ground I used the system ground as shown here:

This dual temp sensor for the fan, has wires labeled 0, 1, and 2 ­ this matches the diagram on the left side that shows T0, T1, and T2:

The "enable" signal for the relays is available on the OBD connector ­ it is the green wire with a white strip. But don't take my word, use your trusty voltmeter and check it for yourself ­ it should be zero volts with no key in the ignition, and right at 12-13 volts with the key in the ON1/ON2 positions:

28) Label the high and low relays. There are two many wires to try to keep remembering who is who. Labels make it idiot proof:

29) Solder both control wires to the ON wire (green/white), and of course tape everything up nice and tight:

30) Note where I will be installing the relays ­ away from the hot engine, and very accessible from the passenger's side. Note I use cable ties for everything. I also shield cables as much as possible with the flexible outer protector, especially where they might "rub" against something:

31) Wire the 3 green wires as in the diagram. This is where having label them helps again ­ don't get them confused! 32) Wire the power resistor as in the diagram. Not much to say here, except that as mentioned in the Zionsville instructions (or some other Internet post) that the heat resistor has to be completely separate from any/all wires ­ it "will" melt them!. I also used some thermal compound to help thermal transfer to the fender:

33) I decided to run just one of the thick wires to the +Bat terminal, so here I combine them:

This wire I used with the wire protector all of the way, and I used zip ties to keep it away from hot stuff as much as possible, following the inside perimeter of the engine bay (sorry for the blurry photos): - behind the ABS module:

- by the firewall, back of the engine:

- by the firewall, back of the engine:

And then routed on top of the air intake towards the battery terminal:

Note that I placed the fuse in the right place ­ next to the terminal. If there is any short, you want it to cut the power to the whole wire. If you put the fuse by the relays, you would still have a "live" wire at battery potential running around!:

Here I am almost done:

That is all for now. I hope this was helpful. I will add photos/clarify/edit the post to clarify/correct mistakes as necessary. William Quiles Nov 19, 2007



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