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Active caffeine

High inclusion level No need for alcohol Face and body application

Active caffeine

ISOCELLTM SLIM and ECOSLIMTM are caffeine vectorized by phospholipid-based complexes and able to be perfectly solubilized in formulas. This technology enables caffeine to be included in a higher quantity in a formula without adding alcohol, avoiding its crystallization and a whitening effect upon application.

Cellulite is the visible effect of fat accumulation in adipocytes. Adipocytes are highly active cells which play a key role in the control of the body's energy. They are balanced by two main pathways : lipogenesis leads to the synthesis and the storage of triglycerides and lipolysis leads to the hydrolysis of these triglycerides to release energy. Caffeine, a xanthic base naturally found in coffee, tea and cocoa, is the most famous lipolytic ingredient for slimming formulas as its efficacy has been proven for many years. Caffeine is a competitive inhibitor of the phosphodiesterase (PDE) enzyme which converts cAMP to its non-cyclic form. Therefore, the raise of cAMP rate activates the HSL enzyme which stimulates the hydrolysis of triglycerides into fatty acids and glycerol. The slimming effect results from the elimination of these residues out of the adipocytes accompanied by a cell size reduction.













Nevertheless, caffeine has a poor solubility in aqueous media and crystallizes rapidly at concentrations above 1%. The formed caffeine crystals limit the penetration and the bioavailability of the molecule and consequently its efficacy. They are visible after application, leaving white marks on the skin. Alcohol, known as a penetration enhancer, is largely used to improve caffeine penetration and to optimize its efficacy. However, it causes skin dryness, inflammation and cannot be used for slimming face care products. To avoid these side effects, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has developed patented phospholipid-based solubilizing and vectorizing complexes ISOCELLTM SLIM and ECOSLIMTM - allowing a raise of the incorporation level of caffeine. Caffeine crystallization in the formula and on the skin is avoided, with no further need for alcohol. Indeed, phospholipids, essential constituents of the membranes of all living cells, have a particular affinity with the skin and can penetrate deeply. Combined with caffeine, they vectorize it and improve its cutaneous absorption to reach deep adipocytes. The slimming efficacy is improved. Furthermore, the skin feel is soft and silky thanks to the specific phospholipid touch.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © June 2009


ISOCELLTM SLIM is composed of caffeine vectorized by phospholipids and sodium salicylate. This optimized combination makes caffeine more soluble. Indeed, above 1%, caffeine is difficult to solubilize and forms fibrous crystals. With ISOCELLTM SLIM, up to 6 % of caffeine can be easily solubilized. Caffeine becomes bioavailable and can cross the cutaneous barrier.

Crystallized caffeine Solubilized caffeine

Emulsion with 4% caffeine

Emulsion with 6.9% ISOCELLTM SLIM (4% caffeine)

For a perfect bioavailability

The transcutaneous passage of caffeine was evaluated with the Franz cell method. Caffeine was delivered at 4% in an emulsion formulated with ISOCELLTM SLIM and in a hydroalcoholic gel (30% ethanol). The kinetic transfer of the caffeine was measured by evaluation of the quantity of the caffeine which has passed into the receptor medium as determined by HPLC.

8 7 6

Diffused caffeine (%)

5 4 3 2 1 0

ISOCELLTM SLIM is a penetration enhancer with a similar performance to hydroalcoholic gel but without the dehydrating effect on the skin.

Hydroalcoholic gel Emulsion with ISOCELLTM SLIM

2 4 8 24

Time (hours)

Emulsion with ISOCELLTM SLIM (6.9%), oil phase (1 1%), emulsifier (7%), water (up to 100%), TEA (0.3%), preservative (0.2%) Hydroalcoholic gel: caffeine (4%), water (up to 100%), ethanol (30%), TEA (0.3%), carbomer (0.3%), preservative (0.2%)


Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © June 2009


INCI Name Appearance Formulation Variant version Caffeine (and) Sodium salicylate (and) Lecithin (and) Silica White powder Disperse in water at 70°C for 20 minutes ISOCELLTM SLIM NC (with natural caffeine) Dosage Optimum pH Application 2-10% >4 Body and face slimming products


ECOSLIMTM is composed of vegetable caffeine vectorized by phospholipids and green coffee extract. ECOSLIMTM is registered by Ecocert.


Vegetable caffeine is mainly extracted from green coffee beans harvested from an evergreen shrub belonging to the Rubiaceae family cultivated worldwide in tropical areas. The green coffee extract recreates the original environment of caffeine. Caffeine therefore has a particular affinity with all the molecules of the extract and it is easily solubilized as in the original plant.


The technology of ECOSLIMTM allows the formulation of emulsions containing up to 3.5% of caffeine with no further need for alcohol.

For a perfect solubilization

Visible crystals of caffeine are formed when used above 1% in aqueous media whereas the equivalent in ECOSLIMTM is perfectly solubilized.

Crystallized caffeine Totally solubilized caffeine

3% caffeine in water

4.4% ECOSLIMTM in water (3% caffeine)

The solubility of ECOSLIMTM in aqueous media depends on the pH of the formula. The more acid, it is, the higher amount of ECOSLIMTM that can be solubilized.

6 5 4 3 2 1 0

ECOSLIMTM Caffeine equivalent

Solubilization (%)













Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © June 2009


INCI Name Ecocert status Appearance Formulation Caffeine (and) Coffea arabica (coffee) seed extract (and) Lecithin Registered Beige powder Disperse in water at 70° C for 20 minutes Dosage Optimum pH Application Up to 5% depending on pH <7 Body and face preventive and slimming products

A N T I - C E L L U L I T E G E L C R E A M 9 . 0 76 . 01 C 79

INGREDIENT A Deionised water DERMOFEELTM PA-3* Glycerin Satiaxane CX 91 Natrosol 250M Pharm B HELIOGELTM INCI NAME Water Sodium phytate (and) Water Glycerin Xanthan gum Hydroxyethylcellulose Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil Hydrogenated polydecene Dimethicone Cetyl dimethicone Tocopherol Water Caffeine (and) Sodium salicylate (and) Lecithin (and) Silica Glycerin (and) Water (and) Nephelium longana seed extract Fragrance Fragrance % 72.30 0.10 2.00 0.30 0.20 3.00


Alphaflow 30 Abil 350 Abil wax 9814 DERMOFEELTM TOCO 70 NON GMO* Deionised water ISOCELLTM SLIM SVELTESSENCETM DERMOSOFTTM 1388* BELLA VITA 3895*

3.00 3.00 2.00 0.20 5.00 1.50 3.00 4.00 0.40

pH: 5.0 - 5.5 ­ Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm): 13000 - 18000 mPa.s

O N C T U O U S S L I M M I N G C R E A M 9 . 0 4 0 . 01 C 8 2 E C O

INGREDIENT A Deionised water DERMOFEELTM PA-3* Glycerin Satiaxane CX 91 ECOSLIMTM B HELIOFEELTM Avocado oil Fancol CB Cetiol OE Stearine DERMOFEELTM TOCO 70 NON GMO* C Deionised water Sodium salicylate Sodium benzoate D Talc luzenac pharma M E Body Firm** INCI NAME Water Sodium phytate (and) Water Glycerin Xanthan gum Caffeine (and) Coffea arabica (coffee) seed extract (and) Lecithin Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin Persea gratissima oil Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter Dicaprylyl ether Stearic acid Tocopherol Water Sodium salicylate Sodium benzoate Talc Fragrance % 66.00 0.10 4.00 0.40 5.00 6.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 1.00 0.20 2.00 0.50 0.50 2.00 0.30

pH: 4.5 - 5.0 ­ Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm): 15000 - 20000 mPa.s

* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. ** Non compliant with Ecocert standards.

We have made reasonable efforts to ensure that the information and suggestions regarding the statement of ingredients and conditions for use of our products is technically and scientifically accurate and up to date. We and our suppliers and agents neither commit nor guarantee the relevance, accuracy, presentation or use, or suitability of our products to any specific use. Such information and suggestions shall not be deemed to grant any patent license or any other intellectual property right. We cannot guarantee that the use made of our products, information and suggestions will respect the intellectual property rights of other third parties. Customers shall use our products, information and suggestions at their own risk and we will therefore not accept any liability whatsoever for any such above-mentioned accounts.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © June 2009

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Lucas Meyer Cosmetics - ZA les Belles Fontaines - 99 route de Versailles - 91 160 Champlan - France Tel: +33 1 69 10 69 69 - Fax: +33 1 69 10 69 70 -

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics © June 2009



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