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John Kane, CEC ([email protected])

Executive Chef · University Club San Francisco, CA Chairman of the Board Bruce Paton, CEC ([email protected]) Executive Chef · Cathedral Hill Hotel San Francisco Executive Chef · Carnelian Room San Francisco Secretary 2nd Vice President

Chefs Association

of the Pacific Coast

ACF San Francisco Chapter

Official Publication of the Chefs Association of the Pacific Coast · December 2004

David Lawrence, CEC ([email protected]) Bren Boyd, CEC ([email protected])

Executive Chef · Caylen's Restaurant Orinda Treasurer



Education Clyde Serda

In This Issue

President's Report

December Thank you!


page 3 page 4 page 5 page 6

Featured Writer Random Shots Wine Editor

Ian Morrison, CEC ([email protected])

Executive Chef · Corinthian Yacht Club Tiburon, CA Sergeant at Arms

Office Manager

Mary Forslund 415)834.9462

Magazine Staff

Editor/Advertising Mary Forslund

The Story in the Songs

Beer for the Holidays Carnelian Room Le Liège Diam

General Produce

page 8 page 12 page 16 page 19

Robert Gee, CEC ([email protected])

Executive Chef · Claremont Country Club Oakland, CA

CAPC Committees

Careme T rustees Clyde Serda Certification Dick Huisman, CEC


Wine Editor Salvatore Campagna, CEC

The Pomegranate

Loan Co ([email protected])

Assistant Pastry Chef ·San Francisco Marriott San Francisco, CA

Chefs Community Bruce Paton, CEC Culinary Arts Bren Boyd, CEC


KGRAFIX DESIGN Lynn Koellermeier

(925)672-6725 (

Time for Tangerines

Kevin Ly ([email protected])

Executive Chef · Cathedral Hill San Francisco, CA

Executive Pastry Chef · Sugar Bowl Bakery San Francisco, CA

Bruce Paton, CEC ([email protected]) James Petrizzo, ([email protected])

Chef Consultant · Albert Uster Imports San Francisco, CA

Entertainment Bruce Paton, CEC Membership Robert Gee, CEC Raffles Kevin Ly Loan Co

Web Site

Facilitator Clyde Serda Web Design KGRAFIX DESIGN

Joseph Renner ([email protected])

Executive Chef /Consultant San Francisco, CA

Chad Welch, CEC ([email protected])

Executive Chef · Palm Event Center Pleasanton, CA

Signature Chefs John Kane, CEC Vist us on the web

American Culinary Federation National President Edward G. Leonard, CMC, AAC


942 Market Street #412 San Francisco, CA 94102-4016


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The Culinarian Volume 49 No. 12

Copyright 2004 by Chefs Association of the Pacific Coast, Inc. The Culinarian is owned and published monthly by the Chefs Association of the Pacific Coast, Inc. · 942 Market Street #412 · San Francisco, CA 94102-4016 Phone (415)834-9462 · Fax (415)834-9467 Rates furnished upon request · All rights reserved Press releases are published as space is available The views expressed in the Culinarian by its contributors do not necessarily reflect those of the Officers or Members of the CAPC Photo and snowman courtesy of the Koellermeier and Mills families near Lake Tahoe at first snowfall.

truer flavor. All greens will add moisture and chewing the greens gives you a full taste around your mouth. If you are using fresh pomegranate seeds as a garnish, taste one to check for sweetness. Also, taste the dressing with the other salad components, just to see how well they all blend together.

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skim off any foam. Immediately pour jelly into hot sterilized jars, within 1/8 inch from top; cover with hot sterilized lids. Cool. To make jelly shelf stable, follow jar manufacture's instructions.l

Pomegranate Jelly

For a special homemade treat for the holidays, try making your own jams and jellies. It's not that hard and oh-so satisfying. You can use the juice from seeds or store bought juice with equal success. Yield: 5 cups jelly Ingredients: 2 cups pomegranate juice 4 cups granulated sugar 1/4 teaspoon unsalted butter 2 pouches liquid pectin, for firm jelly Directions: Add juice to a 5 quart non-reactive sauce pan (stainless), stir in sugar, add butter. Bring mixture to a full boil while stirring constantly, being careful not to get hot liquid on yourself. Quickly stir in pectin and return to a full boil for exactly one minute. Remove from heat;



Montgomery Ward, they held the copyright and he received no royalties. Deeply in debt from the medical bills resulting from his wife's terminal illness (she died about the time May created Rudolph), May persuaded Montgomery Ward's corporate president, Sewell Avery, to turn the copyright over to him in January 1947. With the rights in hand, May's financial security was assured. Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer was printed commercially in 1947 and shown in theaters as a nine-minute cartoon the following year. The Rudolph phenomenon really took off, however, when May's brother-in-law, songwriter Johnny Marks, developed the lyrics and melody for a Rudolph song. Marks' musical version of Rudolph the RedNosed Reindeer, recorded by Gene Autry in 1949, sold two million copies that year and went on to become one of the bestselling songs of all time, second only to White Christmas.

Text from's holiday guide, featuring trivia and tidbits about Christmas, Hannukah & Kwanzaa at

Christmas Songs continued from page 10

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ecember is here and we're knee deep in holiday parties. It began with a fantastic start at the University Club honoring three new Antonin Careme medal inductees, (one of them was me, and I not only hosted the event but also received the honor). I was truly humbled and elated to join this exclusive fraternity in which so many of my peers, mentors, and chefs for whom I have such professional respect also belong. It was equally exciting to be inducted with two chefs I respect so much. Chef Joseph Eidem CEC, AAC is from the ACF High Sierra Chapter and has been someone I have mentored behind for sometime. He is a true professional, great chef and fantastic ambassador of our profession. I also duly respect our ACF National President Edward M. Leonard CMC, AAC. He has guided our federation to high levels of professionalism; charted the way for our new national office; headed up our medal winning team at the Culinary Olympics (held in Germany this October), and has been a beam of


light directing our industry in regard New York), or Rack of Lamb with black olive crust with smoked eggto standards of professionalism and plant, preserved lemon, roasted apricontributions to the many charities cots and Acacia honey jus (from which the ACF and its local chapGlen Oaks Club), or Coconut ters support. I enjoyed talking with Tapioca with mango semifreddo and Chef Leonard about the managing basil syrup (from Voyseys, Kiawah of time. We focused on the balance of his time as president of the ACF, Island Club). We, as club chefs give our members what they want. It travel, the duties that are required, and the required time that is expect- allows a chef to experiment with different foods, ingredients and teched of him as executive chef of the niques. You won't find turkey Westchester Country Club in New Tetrazzini and jello salad anymore. York. Although there are similar We are part of a membership famiparallels with each of us, Chef ly. We have a dual share (with our Leonard's schedule is on a much members) in an investment in the grander scale. The true similarities success for the organization. At the are that we both work for a private club, and that our management and end of the day, I am very lucky to members see a true benefit in having hold such an office as president of the CAPC and Executive Chef of their chefs support their the University Club of San profession and charities. The clubs today are (on a Francisco. It allows the best of two whole) non-profit organi- worlds, giving back to our profession, insuring growth and profeszations who have higher sionalism, and the ability to create food cost ratios than our new ideas and menus on a daily restaurant counterparts basis, inspiring my crew and myself. and are only required not to lose money. We have I am blessed to find myself at a point become an amenity and in my career where I love my work asset to attract new mem- and am very proud to be a chef. I bers and grow our memwish all of you and you families a bership base. Clubs don't wonderful Christmas and the happineed their dining rooms to est of holidays. May this new year generate profits. But in the end, bring you all health, wealth and hapgood chefs and dining rooms add piness. value to membership. Club menus have changed from Veal Oscar, Bon Appetit, Chef Johnl Lobster Newberg, and Petrale Sole Dore. Now, club chefs have menus Active, Retired and Junior Members more like Seared Watch for the results of the election of Hamahci Tuna new with avocado, pickled peaches, 2005 CAPC Directors wild arugula and and toasted marcona CAPC Chef of the Year almonds (from Glen Oaks Club in the next issue of the Culinarian. in old Westbury, The Culinarian

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Words: Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, 1864 Music: J. Baptiste Calkin, 1872

I Heard the Bells on Christmas Day

hat you hear is not necessarily what was written; although Longfellow was credited with the authorship of the lyric, the truth is someone else had a major hand in revising it. Longfellow did in fact write a poem, I heard the Bells on Christmas Day, with many of the lines familiar to today's carolers. Longfellow wrote the poem on Christmas Day in 1864, four months before the close of the Civil War. At that time, the thrust of the poem was much more obvious:


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I heard the bells on Christmas day Their old familiar carols play, And wild and sweet, the words repeat Of peace on earth, good will to men. I thought how, as the day had come, The belfries of all Christendom Had rolled along the unbroken song Of peace on earth, good will to men. Till ringing, singing, on its way, The world revolved from night to day, a voice, a chime A chant sublime Of peace on earth good will to men. Then from each black, accursed mouth The cannon thundered in the south And with the sound The carols drowned Of peace on earth good will to men. It was as if an earthquake rent The hearthstones of a continent and made forlorn The households born Of peace on earth good will to men. And in despair I bowed my head

"There is no peace on earth," I said, Rudolph, The Red "For hate is strong Nosed Reindeer and mocks the song Of peace on earth, good will to men." Johnny Marks 1949 Then pealed the bells more loud and deep: n a way, one could consider "God is not dead, nor doth He sleep; Rudolph as one of the pioneers The wrong shall fail, of the Modern American the right prevail With peace on earth, good will to men." Christmas songs. Not surprisingly, it all started as an advertising camLongfellow's poem was written of a paign for a department store. In 1939, Montgomery Ward asked very specific period in time; it covone of their copywriters, 34-yearered the start, dark and uncertain old Robert L. May, to come up middle, and the hope of the end of America's Civil War. It was a poem with a Christmas story coloring book they could give away to shopmade obsolete within a year of its writing. The 1872 revision universal- pers as a promotional gimmick. ized Longfellow's concerns, and in its May, rather sickly, shy and introrevision, change uncertainty to suri- verted as a child, based the story on his childhood feelings of alienation ty. Notice the replacement of the from children of his own age. As to third stanza to the last the world HAS spun from night to day - uncer- the name, May considered and rejected Rollo (too cheerful) and tainty is gone: we live in brighter Reginald (too British) before decidtimes, with doubt banished. ing on Rudolph. May's boss was worried that a story featuring a red I heard the bells on Christmas day nose--an image associated with Their old familiar carols play, drinking and drunkards--wasn't And wild and sweet the words repeat exactly suitable for a Christmas Of peace on earth, good will to men. tale. May responded by taking I thought how, as the day had come, Denver Gillen, a friend from The belfries of all Christendom Montgomery Ward's art departHad rolled along th' unbroken song ment, to the Lincoln Park Zoo to Of peace on earth, good will to men. sketch some deer. Gillen's illustraAnd in despair I bowed my head tions of a red-nosed reindeer over"There is no peace on earth," I said, "For hate is strong and mocks the song came the hesitancy of May's bosses, and the Rudolph story was Of peace on earth, good will to men." approved. As an interesting sideThen pealed the bells more loud and note, you might notice that deep: Rudolph has a similar rhyme "God is not dead, nor doth He pattern to another Christmas sleep; classic, 'Twas the Night Before The wrong shall fail, Christmas. May's story continthe right prevail ues below the lyrics. With peace on earth, good will to men." You know Dasher and Dancer and Till ringing, singing, Prancer and Vixen, on its way, Comet and Cupid and Donder The world revolved from and Blitzen., night to day, But do you recall a voice, a chime The most famous reinA chant sublime deer of all? Of peace on earth good will to men.


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frozen until ready to use, up to 1 week. Chef's note: I also like to add a few mint leaves during the making of the simple syrup for a more rounded flavor. You can also freeze the mixture into ice cubes for that vodka or tequila on-therocks drink.

Pomegranate Syrup Grenadine

Use this syrup with mixed drinks or a sweetener for iced tea. If your making Tequila Sunrises, don't forget to invite me! Makes: about 2 cups syrup Ingredients: 2 large pomegranates, about 2 cups seeds or 2 cups pomegranate juice 1 1/2 cups sugar Directions: In a stainless or non-corrosive sauce pan combine seeds and crush with a masher, add sugar and stir well. Cover and let stand for 24 hours. Or, add pomegranate juice and sugar together in a non-corrosive sauce pan. Bring mash or juice and sugar to a boil, lower heat and simmer for two minutes. Strain mash, pressing down to extract juice from seeds. Or strain liquid and pour into a hot sterilized jar. Cover with sterilized lid and allow to cool. Keep refrigerated until use.

ful vinaigrette you can make, however, it also is the hardest stain to remove, so, be careful. Pasteurized pomegranate juice is now readily available in many supermarkets. Try to find one that is pure and unsweetened if possible. Yield: one cup vinaigrette Ingredients: 2 cups pomegranate juice reduced to 1 cup 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon lemon juice (if using sweetened pomegranate juice) 1 medium shallot, finely minced sea or kosher salt to taste fresh ground black pepper to taste Directions: In a sauce pan, add one cup pomegranate juice and reduce over

medium high heat to 1 cup. Let cool. In a medium size bowl, add reduced pomegranate juice and salt. Whisk well until salt dissolves. Add diced shallot, fresh ground black pepper. Slowly add olive oil while whisking. Test taste for sweetness and salt with a piece of lettuce. If too sweet add some lemon juice, a little at a time. If too tart, add some sugar or honey and whisk until dissolved. Chef's Note: Always test your vinaigrettes with the greens you are serving; some greens may be sweet or bitter depending on the variety. Adjust flavoring such as, salt, acid or sweetness with the greens for a

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Association, along with the Staff of the Culinarian, wish all of those who have made our progress possible, a very Happy Holiday Season.

The Members, Board of Directors of the Chefs

for the Holiday Season

and Warmest Wishes

Thank You

Pomegranate Vinaigrette

We are most grateful for your support.

This is about the most color-

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his fruit has been around for over 5 thousand years. The Egyptians made carvings on the walls of their tombs of the fruit and trees. The pomegranate is one of the many foods that were buried in the tombs of the great kings. It is believed that pomegranates originated in the northern part of India, at the foot of the Himalayas, and in what is now known as Iran. This fruit traveled quickly around the world. On a subsequent voyage of Columbus, he traveled to the new world with 17 ships and fifteen hundred men and many new items to plant in the name of Spain. Some of the items were peach and apricot seeds as well as pomegranates. When the Spanish explorers sailed along our southern coastline, they left pomegranate seeds. The trees were later found growing wild in Georgia (in 1773). Although they may have floated ashore from a sinking galleon, a similar discovery happened in Southern California, when it was being traveled by Father Baegert in 1783. This fruit, with its multitude of seeds, spread across southern Europe, and can be found in Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Southern Switzerland, and in Tyrol. It was taken to the Gold


The Pomegranate

Coast of Africa by the Dutch and Portuguese and to Northern Africa, the Middle-East, by Persian traders. Some say that it was the pomegranate (not the apple) that Eve fed to Adam, but I don't know anyone who would bite into a pomegranate like an apple, so I am tossing that idea out! I do know that pomegranates are depicted in great works of art from masters such as Dali, Raphael and Cezanne. The great writers, like Homer and Shakespeare mentioned this richly colored fruit, and now, I mention it. There have been many different myths about this fruit, all of which, in one way or another, make it the fruit of eternal life. Beliefs of it are so powerful, that in Greek mythology, Persephone was sentenced to marry Hades and to live six months a year in the underworld, just for eating six pomegranate seeds. During the ancient Greek festival of Demeter, women of stature were allowed to eat pomegranate because it was the fruit of fertility. It was said that the Greek Goddess Aphrodite planted the first pomegranate on Cyprus and in Greece. Bowls of scented pomegranates adorn the tables during the Jewish celebration of Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, also implying a blessing of many children in the coming year. What is this new rage of pomegranate juice all about? I for one, was delighted to see pomegranate juice at my local supermarket. I really didn't care about the little tag that told me that the pomegranate juice had more antioxidants than red wine,

green tea, blueberry or cranberry juice. I wanted the flavor of my childhood. I didn't even wait to get home. I popped the cap and had some in my car. It took me back to when I was a child, and we would put on old tee shirts and pick pomegranates at my grandfather's house. My grandfather sat on his chair under a huge pomegranate tree and would quarter them on an old wooded table, handing the pieces to the kids, who plucked the seed sacks open, put the jewel like seeds in the hand crank meat grinder, and made gallons of juice at a time. Our mothers and aunts would make pomegranate jelly, and our fathers poured tequila in a glass and filled it with fresh pomegranate juice. Our treat was to lick the jelly pot and drink a glass of fresh pomegranate juice. Later that night, our purple hands were badges of honor at the dinner table, and there were dozens of the clear, ruby colored jelly jars lined up on the counter. I still have a Crab Pomegranate tree in my yard, from which I get loads of sour (or tart) tasting pomegranates. This fruit is not the best to eat from the hull (like most pomegranates are), however, the fruit is great for making jelly or granite, which requires simple syrup anyway. Whenever I see pomegranates at the market or pick them from my tree, I am reminded of my school days, when my brothers and sister would rush home from school to do homework for a reward of a cold bowl of pomegranate seeds, that my mother would have cleaned for us. We just added a little salt and settled down to watch TV. There is always a food that will bring back a memory to someone. Now that I have done my homework and researched this great

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o most people in the US, the nametangerine applies to all zipper-skin (easy-to-peel) citrus. However, tangerine is the name for only one type of mandarin! The earliest recorded history of citrus dates back to 2200 BC in China. The tangerine was introduced into Europe early in the 19th century, and reached America the middle of that century, when the Italian counsul at New Orleans planted it on the consulate grounds. The root stock was brought to Florida some time between 1840 and 1893. It was Colonel G. L. Dancy, an early Florida grower, who laughingly referred to the tangerine as a kid-glove orange, indicating it could easily be peeled without soiling your finest. The Colonel also gave his name to one of the best known, most popular varieties of the fruit. There are a multitude of tangerine varieties, and an even greater number of complex hybrids. Throughout the US, retailers generally identify the varieties that are rather small, deep-orange colored, with a rather soft, short-necked, pebbly skin as tangerines. When a whole mandarin is cut crosswise, it looks identical to an orange on the interior. The segments are arranged in petal fashion, a small, pulpy core in the center. But when peeled, they immediately reveal their most distinctive feature: the segments separate easily into compact, taste-tickling sensations! Florida is the largest producer of mandarins in the US, with California a distant second, followed by Arizona and Texas. Mexico has also become a large producer of various mandarin varieties. Mandarins are generally available in October, with peak production in the November through January period. In selecting fruit, it should be heavy for its size, indicating ample juice content, and have the characteristic deep-orange or almost red

Time for Tangerines


color. A puffy appearance and feel is normal for many varieties, but it should have the weight and there should be no soft, water-soaked areas or mold. Dancy Tangerine, has a lively, sweet-tart flavor with many seeds in a loose, easy to peel rind. When the fruit becomes over-ripe, it looks dry and puffy. Fairchild Tangerine. Principallly grown in desert areas, generally medium to large size, slightly flat, smooth skin and deep orange color. Peels easily, has many seeds and a rich, sweet taste. Kinnow. This is another highbred Tangor. The fruit is slightly flattened with no neck and has a smooth, orange rind. The number of seeds is high and the segments do not separate easily. It has a rich and sweet flavor with thin, tender membranes around the segments. Very heavy fruit for its size. Minneola Tangelo. This is actually a grapefruit-tangerine cross, but in all characteristics, it resembles the tangerine. It is red-orange and tends to be slightly elongated, often with some neck. Pulp is tender and fine textured. Flavor fair to good with a grapefruitlike tartness. Honey-Tangerine. A Tangor fruit grown principally in Florida. Exceedingly sweet, rich, thin skinned; fairly easily peeled. Like the Kinnow, very heavy for its size, very firm, extraordinarily food keeping qualities. Orlando. A Tangelo that has the same parentage as the Minneola. Fruit is of medium size, slightly flattened and has an attractive, deep orange rind. Does not peel easily. Satsuma. This is the principal variety of Japan. Fruit may be smooth and rather flattened but sometimes quite rough and necked. The rind is orange, pebbled and peels readily. Essentially seedless. Tangerines are an excellent source of vitamin C. One 2.5 inch tangerine provides 37% of the RDA for an adult. A 3.5 ounce edible portion is only 46 calories. Eaten raw, it is one of the important deterrent fruits helpful to dental health. General Produce Co. Sacramento, CA Page 19

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ike the foods we eat at this time of year, beer is firmly rooted in the traditions of the holiday season. These roots reach way back to before there was a Christmas. In the early days of mythology in Greece, Rome and parts of Northern Europe, people commemorated the winter solstice with different kinds of celebrations. The Greeks called it the Halcyon Days, a time of peace and tranquility during the shortest days of the year. The Romans referred to this period as Saturnalia, a time when quarrels ceased and friends exchanged gifts. These people celebrated `looking forward to the brighter days to come' by feasting and drinking beer. Further to the north, in what is now Scandinavia, the hardy residents celebrated Yuletide in the same fashion. The beer they brewed was stronger, to fight off the cold nights, and flavored with spice to be special. Late in the fourth century, when Pope Gregory the Great sent his emissaries to convert the pagans across Europe, he thought it wiser to adopt the traditions of feasting and drinking rather than try to end them. Hence, Yuletide feasts became Christ


Beer for the Holidays

Mass and the beers became Christmas beers. Over time, the tradition grew and strong beers became associated with the holiday season all over Europe because people did not have to work and had time to consume and deal with the hangover aftermath of this consumption. The strength of the beers also provided a winter warmer for the chilly nights of winter. These traditions continue to this day, and specialty beers are brewed here in America as well as all over the world. San Francisco's own Fritz Maytag of Anchor Brewing revived the tradition here in 1975 with Our Special Ale and continues it to this day. He varies the recipe slightly every year but, there is always a definite spice character in this dark ale. Coors was the first of the big breweries to offer a holiday beer with Winterfest in 1986. As you are reading this article, there are many holiday beers available on tap in multi-tap establishments and in bottled form at grocery stores. All of our local breweries produce excellent examples of the holiday style, so you can sample them by visiting these establishments. Today's holiday ales are flavored with everything from vanilla to cranberry and some contain no spice profile at all. The common theme, is strength and specialty, just like we have traditional dishes like turkey, ham, roast beef, seasonal fruits and vegetables during this time of the year. Our foods are usually heartier and more sumptuous in nature, as are our other holiday quaffs like eggnog and holiday punch. In Switzerland, they make a beer called Samichlaus, which translates to Santa Claus and is also the strongest lager in the world at fourteen per cent by volume, (which would make it three times as strong as the mass produced American lagers). If you recall from a previous article,

the lager style is usually light and clean and not usually high in alcohol content. The fermentation process always takes place under cold temperatures, normally about six weeks. Samichlaus is lagered for almost a year in caves at the base of the Alps. The brewery uses special yeasts, because ordinary yeasts would be stunned into inactivity by the level of alcohol. This wonderful dark beer is obviously meant for sipping, to sooth away the cold of a winter evening. This wonderful example of a seasonal specialty beer can be found in better liquor stores in the area. In closing, let's all get out and sample some new beers and enjoy the holidays.l Cheers, Chef Bruce · The Beer Chef

after selecting a preference (or rating the pair as equal), were we told of the type of closure. The results were quite surprising, to say the least. Of the twelve pairs on my score sheets there were four no preference or equal marks and eight Diam cork preferences. No one was more surprised than me. Other scores did not reflect as high a preference for the Diam closure as mine, but the Diam was the overall preference of the majority. In my judgment, the tasting was conducted as fair as possible and in a highly professional manner.

Diam appears to be the cork of the future. The price is far below natural cork and below synthetic closures and screw caps. Now, if you owned a winery and were faced with the decision of choosing a closure for your wine bottles, it is very likely that the Diam would get some serious consideration. Vive Le Liege! Often, in past Decembers, this space has offered holiday wine suggestions. Please refer to the November issue of The Culinarian for some ideas re wines to accompany holiday fare. It seems as if the Christmas spirit is a bit dampened this year because of the world situation. You can be sure that the seasonal marketing blitz will be in full swing as this issue comes off the press. Yet, with so many of our voluntary military personnel serving in a zone where murdering terrorists listen to a few deranged pseudo clerics, the free gift of prayer from people of faith may be a powerful ally. If ever the world needed a Prince of Peace, now is the time.l

White Cocolate Mascarpone Cheesecake

makes two cakes


16 oz chocolate wafers or ginger snaps or biscotti 2/3 C melted butter


2 pounds cream cheese 1 pounds mascarpone 2 cups sugar 10 eggs 2 yolks 1/2 pound white chocolate, melted and cooled 2 vanilla beans, split and scraped 4 ounces framboise, grand marnier or brandy Grind cookies in processor and combine with melted butter. Press into bottom of springform pan. Beat cream cheese with sugar on low speed. Add mascarpone. Add eggs, one at a time. Beat in yolks and vanilla seeds. Fold in white chocolate, framboise and cream. Add filling to pan and bake at 275 degrees about 45 minutes to an hour until set. Let cool and refrigerate. (Bruce D. Paton, CEC)

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few months ago, an article called The Romance of the Cork appeared in this space. It discussed some recent trends in wine closures, including synthetic corks, screw caps vis-à-vis natural cork and a, relatively new, product from a French company that uses natural, specially processed cork. The reason that so many companies are working on alternative wine closures is to eliminate the culprit that causes the wine taint generally referred to as a corked wine. The trouble maker for natural cork is a fungus produced compound called Trichloroanisole 2, 4, 6 that, too often, finds a home in natural cork fiber. Wine professionals shorten this chemical compound to TCA. When present in the cork, it causes the wine to take on an unpleasant, musty, dank, wet cardboard odor. TCA affects the taste of the wine as well. It tends to `rob' the wine of its natural fruit qualities and throws off the important fruit/acid balance that is an integral part of a wine's ability to go with foods. Faulty corks show no preference. They are just as apt to appear in first growth wines as in vin du pays and they give no advance warning of their insidious mission to assault the olfactory and


Le Liège Diam

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palate senses. The cost of corked wine is not just in the cost of the wine but also in the inconvenience and disruption of the dining experience. Synthetic corks are definitely on the increase in America and other countries. Screw caps are making some inroads, too, but not nearly at the rate of synthetic corks. One producer of synthetic corks offers a choice of colors and custom design, logo and printing. In the June issue of The Culinarian, a new process by the French company, Sabaté, for treating natural cork was briefly discussed. This process is designed to remove the TCA compounds from the cork. Sabaté calls this super critical CO2 extraction process Diamant (French for Diamond). Sabaté has worked on this project with the French Atomic Energy Commission's Supercritical Fluids Laboratory. Granules of natural cork are subjected to this extraction process and then, agglomerated granules are molded into the shape of natural cork closures. Extensive testing of these corks has been ongoing for the past two years in Europe, Australia and America. Sabaté has coined the word Diam (shortened form of diamant) as the name for their processed cork. The company is continuing to research the extraction process with regular natural corks as opposed to granules. If Sabaté has comparable success with natural whole corks, it will give their company a considerable advantage in the market place, especially in the premium and ultra premium wine and spirits market. In order to test the Diam The Culinarian

corks against other wine closures including natural cork, Sabaté has staged various tasting tests in some of the major wine markets in America. The format for the San Francisco tasting included a double blind tasting at the Rubicon Restaurant under the supervision of Master Sommelier Larry Stone. Larry set up the rules and scoring system for a session attended by about thirty invited wine professionals from the greater Bay Area, including me. Wines were tasted in random order so that direct comparison was not possible. Two bottles of the same wine with different closures were tasted in random order so that the ones having the Diam corks were unknown to all. The other closures were not known either except that they were to include natural cork, synthetic corks and screw caps. There were 12 pairs of different wines that included seven whites, four reds and one rosé. The whites were tasted first, followed by the rosé and the reds. Each wine was rated by color (max., 2 points), aroma (max., 4 points), palate (max., 4 points) and overall quality, max., 2 points. Neither the varietal character of the wine nor the countries of origin were known in advance. The wines were tasted in random order, that is, a Chardonnay may have been followed by a Riesling and a Sauvignon Blanc etc., before or after the same wine with a different closure was tasted. The judges were not informed of the pairs until all the wines were scored. Then, after being told which wines (but not what type of closure) were the same the judges were able to retaste and to select the wine they preferred in all of the 12 pairs. Only



fruit, it was surprising to find out just what it can do. I read a study in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, which showed in a study about a group of people who drank two ounces of pomegranate juice a day and showed an increase of 9% in antioxidant activity. Pomegranate juice has a high concentration of flavonoids which are the antioxidants that offer protection and help to fight heart disease and various cancers including skin cancer. There is also a study which used mice and showed that with a daily minimal intake of pomegranate juice, the amount of plaque build up in their arteries was reduced by 44% as well as showing a reducuction in the Low Density Lipoprotein (LDL) bad cholesterol. Most pomegranates are about the size of a softball. They range from reddishorange to deep red in color and some are partially green or light pink. Pomegranate blossoms appear in early spring. They are pink to bright red and orange in color and Pomegranate Granite have the trumpet shape at the crown of the fruit. It takes around 5 to 7 months for the This is usually used as an intermezzo. fruit to mature from the bloom. The leaves However, I have been know to have it on a are bright to dark green and turn a wonderwarm summer evening as a dessert to cool ful yellow in the fall. Pomegranate trees down. With flash pasteurized pomegranate grow 12 to 16 feet high, but can reach juice readily available, you can make this year heights of 20 to 30 feet. The thin, but very round. You can use your home ice cream pliable limbs almost take on the look of a maker, a professional ice cream maker or simweeping willow, however, some have long ply just a bowl and whisk. spines that come off of the branches. They Serves: 12 intermezzo servings should be planted in the sunniest part of the Ingredients: yard and are considered a fine landscape 2 cups pomegranate juice, reduced to one cup plant, making a great low shade canopy for 1 cup sugar or sugar substitute that summer snooze on the lawn (I know!). 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt The skin is leathery in texture and usually 2 1/4 cups spring water needs to be cut open to expose the fruit. If 2 tablespoons vodka you should find them split open at market, they are alright to buy and use, as long as Directions: In a sauce pan, add sugar, salt and there is no mold in the split. The split usualspring water, bring to a simmer, stir until sugar ly happens when the pomegranates are and salt dissolve. Allow simple syrup to cool. rained on, and the pomegranate seeds take Reduce pomegranate juice from 2 cups to 1 in more water and outgrow the skin. cup over medium high heat, simmer only, do There are over 20 varieties of pomenot boil. Once juice has reduced, allow to cool. granates, some of the more popular types Use, following instructions on ice cream are: Babylonian White, Balegal, Cloud, maker. Or, in a stainless bowl, add simple Crab, Early Wonder, Fleshman, Granada, syrup, reduced juice and vodka. Place in freezKing, Sweet and Wonder. er and set timer for 30 minutes, remove and I know you have seen them, but, gently whisk, scraping sides of bowl; repeat how do you use them? 1) Cut off the pomeevery hour until it resembles granité or a dry granate top or crown, or open split. 2) slurpy. Place in a air tight container and keep Lightly score the skin into quarters. 3) Place pomegranate cut side down in a Photos courtesy of The Pomegranite Council Education, continued on page 20

Education, continued from page 6

bowl of water and allow to soak for 5 minutes. 4) Holding fruit under water, break sections apart. 5) With fingers, rub seeds off membrane, opening all seed sacks. 6) Remove floating membrane and drain. Then use the seeds as is or juice them. One of the different ways to use the seeds is as a garnish on a plate. The seeds are crushed and the juice is used in a sauce or as a finishing liquor drizzled on the plate. You can also purchase either pure flash pasturized pomegranate juice or flavored pomegranate juice. Let us not forget that pomegranate juice is great with vodka or clear tequila. Try freezing it into cubes for punch or drink it on the rocks. I like to use the pure pomegranate juice and reduce it by half to make my pomegranate granité, which makes a tasty, colorful intermezzo. Now, go out and pick up a few pomegranates, have fun peeling them, and make your own memories. Have a very, Merry Christmas and a healthful New Year!l

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Christmas Songs continued from page 4

Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer Had a very shiny nose, You could even say it glows. All of the other reindeer Used to laugh and call him names; They never let poor Rudolph Join in any reindeer games. Then one foggy Christmas Eve, Santa came to say: "Rudolph with your nose so bright, Won't you guide my sleigh tonight?" Then how the reindeer loved him As they shouted out with glee, "Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer, You'll go down in history."

Montgomery Ward distributed 2.4 million copies of the Rudolph booklet in 1939, and although wartime paper shortages curtailed printing for the next several years, a total of 6 million copies had been given by the end of 1946. The post-war demand for licensing the Rudolph character was tremendous, but since May had created the story as an employee of

Christmas Songs continued on page 22

he California Milk Advisory Board (CMAB) is offering a new free guide that invites travelers to experience Real California Cheese Country. Famous for its wine country, California is also emerging as one of the country's leading fine cheese-producing regions. Using the updated guide, visitors can identify cheesemakers who welcome visitors to taste the state's many award-winning cheeses. The newly expanded guide features a colorful map and identifies all 60 of the state's cow's milk cheesemakers, highlighting the 31 cheesemakers open to the public for tastings, tours or who sell directly to the public at the cheese factory or by mail order. In addition, the CMAB has produced an interactive version that is available at California's cheesemakers are located throughout the state and are an ideal side trip for these touring through California, said Nancy Fletcher, Vice President of Communications for the California Milk Advisory Board. Like the state's wineries, many cheesemakers welcome visitors to sample their products, learn about the many different styles and even learn how the farm's terroir is reflected in the flavor of the cheese. California's cow's milk cheesemakers produce more than 250 varieties and styles of cheese. The state is the nation's leading milk producer and currently ranks second in cheese production. How to order a Real California Cheese Country guide: Consumers can obtain a free copy of the Real California Cheese Country guide by sending a selfaddressed, stamped (37 cents postage) #10 envelope to the following address. Request brochure #24153.

New T ravel Guide to California's Cheese Country invites Visitors to taste the Cheese




Dale Bailey Armen Sujohn Michael Wille Thomas Crumpton Phillip S. Evans Werner Gebert Joey Jaraba, Jr. Jean-Pierre Mercanton Kevin Ramsay Patrick Finney Ernst Hofmann

1 1 2 2 6 6 13 21 23 25 28

Real California Cheese Country Brochure California Milk Advisory Board 3800 Cornucopia Way, Suite D Modesto, California 95358

Associate San Francisco Specialty Produce Chris Charlesworth San Francisco, CA Junior Amanda Golsch Student California Culinary Academy San Francisco, CA Page 10 The Culinarian December December

Welcome New Members

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FPO You have film

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Random Shots

from the October dinner held at the Carnelian Room, San Francisco on Monday, October 11, 2004. A breathtaking view of our great city of San Francisco was a beautiful complement to the fine cuisine, executed by Executive Chef David Lawrence, CEC and his staff.

Photos by Bruce Paton

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