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MOSAIC PRACTICE EXERCISE

Mosaic knitting is one of our favorite techniques here, because it looks more complicated than it really is! By using slip stitches, you can achieve a two-color look, while only working with one color at a time. This exercise will show you how to do mosaic knitting in the round and flat, and will have you prepared to knit the Mystery Sock II pattern in January 2010! YARN: Scrap fingering weight yarn from your stash. Ensure the two colors are of similar weight. Main Color: This is the lighter of the two colors, and is represented by white squares on the chart. Contrast Color: This is the darker of the two colors and is represented by black squares on the chart. NEEDLES: US Size 1 (or whatever gives you an acceptable fingering weight gauge). This exercise can be done using DPNs, Two Circs, or Magic Loop method. GAUGE: Not important. ABBREVIATIONS: CC Contrast color DPN Double-pointed needle k Knit MC Main color p Purl RS Right side sl1 Slip 1 (purlwise, unless otherwise specified) st(s) Stitch(es) wyib With yarn in back WS Wrong side

PART I: CIRCULAR MOSAIC KNITTING

INSTRUCTIONS: Cast on 60 sts using the MC for circular knitting. Distribute the stitches evenly over two needles for the Two Circ or Magic Loop methods, or evenly over 4 needles for DPNs.

Working in the round, complete the following 12 round chart. This stitch pattern has a 6 st repeat, so you will repeat the pattern 10 times as you work each round.

Practice Motif (multiple of 6 sts)

How to work the mosaic design: In the row number column, white squares indicate that the round is worked using the main color. Shaded squares indicate that the round is worked in the contrast color.

You will alternate two yarn colors by working the first two rows with the main color, the next two rows with the contrast color, the following two rows with the main color, and so on. You can also notice from the chart, that the pattern chart is comprised of duplicate rows. Rows 1 and 2 are identical, rows 3 and 4 are identical, and so on. When working on RS rows, charts are read from right to left (the same direction that most of us knit). When working on WS rows, charts are read from left to right. When you are working in the round, you will always be on the RS, and therefore will always read the chart from right to left. When working with the main color, you knit all main color stitches in the chart row (the white squares), and slip (purlwise wyib) all contrast color stitches in the chart row (the black squares). When working with the contrast color, you knit all contrast color stitches in the chart row (the black squares), and slip (purlwise wyib) all main color stitches in the chart row (the white squares). Now, more specifically: Rounds 1 and 2 are worked in the main color, and the chart shows that all six sts in the pattern for these two rows are also in the main color only. So, join your sts to work and the round, and knit two rounds in the main color. Rounds 3 and 4: The Row Number square is shaded, so this means the rounds are worked with the CC, and that we are going to k the black squares and slip the white squares. Attach your contrast color to your work, but do not cut your main color yarn. Just let the MC hang, and we'll use it again in a moment. The text "translation" for Rounds 3 and 4 would be: With CC, *Sl1, k5, repeat from * to end of round. Rounds 5 and 6: The Row Number square is white, so this means the rounds are worked with the MC, and that we are going to k the white squares and slip the black squares. Drop your CC yarn, and pick up your MC yarn. The text "translation" for Rounds 5 and 6 would be: With MC, *K1, sl1, k3, sl1, repeat from * to end of round. Rounds 7 and 8: The Row Number square is shaded, so this means the rounds are worked with the CC, and that we are going to k the black squares and slip the white squares. Drop your MC yarn, and pick up your CC yarn. The text "translation" for Rounds 7 and 8 would be: With CC, *Sl1, k3, sl1, k1, repeat from * to end of round. Rounds 9 and 10: The Row Number square is white, so this means the rounds are worked with the MC, and that we are going to k the white squares and slip the black squares. Drop your CC yarn, and pick up your MC yarn. The text "translation" for Rounds 9 and 10 would be: With MC, *K5, sl1, repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 11 and 12: The Row Number square is shaded, so this means the rounds are worked with the CC, and that we are going to k the black squares and slip the white squares. Drop your MC yarn, and pick up your CC yarn. The text "translation" for Rounds 11 and 12 would be: With CC, k to end of round. Congratulations! You have mastered mosaic knitting in the round, and how to read mosaic charts. Now let's move on to flat mosaic knitting.

PART II: FLAT MOSAIC KNITTING

Cut the CC yarn, and bind off 30 stitches using the MC. We will now work back and forth across the remaining 30 stitches, so the DPN users can consolidate all the sts onto one needle and get rid of a few sticks. Now we are going to repeat the same chart using flat mosaic knitting. The differences are: 1. The even numbered rows will be worked from the WS. 2. WS rows are purled instead of knit (just like stockinette stitch) 3. When you slip sts on WS rows, you slip purlwise with the yarn in front. 4. When you work WS rows, you read the chart from left to right. Rows 1 and 2 are worked in the main color, and the chart shows that all six sts in the pattern for these two rows are also in the main color only. So, knit across all sts for Rows 1, and purl back for Row 2. Rows 3 and 4: The Row Number square is shaded, so this means the rows are worked with the CC, and that we are going to k or p the black squares and slip the white squares. Attach your contrast color to your work, but do not cut your main color yarn. The text "translation" for Rounds 3 and 4 would be: Row 3: With CC, *Sl1, k5, repeat from * to end. Row 4: With CC, *P5, sl1, repeat from * to end. Rows 5 and 6: The Row Number square is white, so this means the rows are worked with the MC, and that we are going to k or p the white squares and slip the black squares. Drop your CC yarn, and pick up your MC yarn. The text "translation" for Rows 5 and 6 would be: Row 5: With MC, *K1, sl1, k3, sl1, repeat from * to end. Row 6: With MC, *Sl1, p3, sl1, p1, repeat from * to end. Rows 7 and 8: The Row Number square is shaded, so this means the rows are worked with the CC, and that we are going to k or p the black squares and slip the white squares. Drop your MC yarn, and pick up your CC yarn. The text "translation" for Rows 7 and 8 would be: Row 7: With CC, *Sl1, k3, sl1, k1, repeat from * to end. Row 8: With CC, *P1, sl1, p3, sl1, repeat from * to end. Rows 9 and 10: The Row Number square is white, so this means the rounds are worked with the MC, and that we are going to k or p the white squares and slip the black squares. Drop your CC yarn, and pick up your MC yarn. The text "translation" for Rows 9 and 10 would be: Row 9: With MC, *K5, sl1, repeat from * to end. Row 10: With MC, *Sl1, p5, repeat from * to end. Rows 11 and 12: The Row Number square is shaded, so this means the rounds are worked with the CC, and that we are going to kor p the black squares and slip the white squares. Drop your MC yarn, and pick up your CC yarn. The text "translation" for Rounds 11 and 12 would be: Row 11: With MC, k to end. Row 12: With MC, p to end. Congratulations again! You have now mastered flat mosaic knitting, and are ready for the Mystery Sock II KAL!

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