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With all mechanical work on your vehicle please make safety your first priority and remember, this article is to be used ONLY as a guide to assist the reader and should not be considered a replacement for mechanical expertise. If you are unsure about any aspect of this, or any other guide provided on the TAMON website, then please seek the advice of a professional in the area concerned. TAMON takes no responsibility for the accuracy of technical information provided, nor is TAMON or the author of this document responsible for any harm or injury incurred as a result of following any instructions written in or implied by this document. When making modifications to your vehicle, always abide by any rules or regulations set forth by your state Government's vehicle standards department or road and traffic authority.

F5A Engine Removal / F8B Conversion

Preface: This article details the process of removing an F5A engine from a MightyBoy and installing an F8B from a Suzuki Hatch. This article can also be used as a guide to replace a standard motor in a MightyBoy. Estimated completion time: 1 day Specialist tools required: Torque wrench, engine crane (or similar), heavy duty ratchet straps. Preparation and components. Preparation formed the longest part of my personal upgrade, and this is how the story goes. (If you're confident you have everything you need ready to drop in, you can skip ahead to the actual replacement removal procedure.) What you need: A full F8B long motor and gearbox including radiator and speedo cable. In some cases this will differ, and you can get away with having some parts and not others, but as a general rule that is what you should aim for. The F8B has larger intake and exhaust manifolds, and the gearbox has a taller final drive for better cruising at higher speeds. For this gearbox you'll need a matching speedo cable as some use male and some use female adaptors. The radiator is possibly the least important component, it only has an additional core to give better cooling capability. I purchased a complete Hatch with an F8B engine and running gear, for the purpose of fitting the engine into my MightyBoy. I believe that this is the best way to do the transplant, as you have all the bits you need to do the job. Technically you can just bolt up all the F5A bits to an F8B engine, but that won't get the best performance from the motor. If you are rebuilding a motor and need a copy of the torque specifications for various components, then please grab a copy of the F5A or F8B workshop manual, available on the TAMON website: Getting on with the job: To prepare the ute for removal of the old engine, I find the easiest way is to remove the following panels: · · · · · · Bonnet Front bumper Lower stone guard (panel under the bumper) Radiator support Grille Trim panel underneath headlights

After this, the next step is to unplug and remove the battery, and disconnect and plug the fuel line. Do not continue until this is done!

This guide was provided by The Australian Mightyboy Owners Network. Do not reproduce or host without permission.

Following the disconnection and removal of the battery, continue with the following: · · · · · · · · · · Drain and remove radiator Disconnect heater hoses from firewall Disconnect all wiring to carby, distributor, oil pressure and water temperature senders Disconnect power lead to starter motor Disconnect accelerator / choke / clutch / speedo cables Disconnect earth and plug lead from distributor to coil Undo all four engine and gearbox mounts and gearbox shifter linkage. (Engine mounts are: Underside of the subframe x2 bolts, rear lower engine mount x1 bolt, transmission stabiliser bar x1 bolt) Remove top engine steady Undo exhaust from manifold flange. Drain sump and gearbox oil (Gearbox uses a 10mm hex drive grub screw on the underside to drain)

After you've done all this, you can begin to remove the engine. To lift the motor, I use a block & tackle pulley and two ratchet straps (rated at 500kgs each). The straps are run under each end of the engine/box and the pulley is attached to a beam in the roof of my garage. If you have access to an engine crane then that's a better option, but I still recommend using straps to cradle the engine rather than lifting by a single point. As the engine is lifted SLOWLY, the driveshafts must be removed from the gearbox. To do this, I used a blunt tyre iron, and gently prise the shafts out from the gearbox at the edge of the CV joint as the engine is lifted. Once the shafts are clear, that should be about it for the removal, just continue to lift the engine slowly and check for anything that may still be connected. To install the new engine, it is simply a matter of reversing the proceedure of getting the old engine out. The F8B will bolt straight into the standard MightyBoy cradle. Connect everything up, and away you go! Some important points to note about doing this engine upgrade are: · · · The 4 wire F8B alternator from a Hatch will not work in a MightyBoy, as the Hatch unit requires an external voltage regulator. Do not try and use the driver's side lower engine mount from an F8B Hatch motor. It will NOT fit into the MightyBoy engine cradle because the mounting pin/bolt is out by 30mm or so. If you want to add the extra top driver's side engine steady then it will need to be modified to fit under the bonnet of an MB. Don't just bolt it on and try to slam the bonnet shut.

This guide was provided by The Australian Mightyboy Owners Network. Do not reproduce or host without permission.


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