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(Cover) Tushkiiz, Mongolia, TM 2001.36.9. Gift of Della Dash

(Above) Sarong, Indonesia, TM 2001.22.1. Gift of David and Isabel Taylor

Photo Credits: p. 6: Jennifer Heimbecker; p. 7 top and bottom: Sandy Danielson; p. 8: Sheila Galagan; p. 9: Sandy Danielson; p. 10 left: Sheila Galagan; p. 10 right: Eric Krody; p. 13: Sandy Danielson; p. 15 top and bottom: Stone Photography; p. 17: Sheila Galagan.

Edited and written by Rachel Bucci and Sara Trautman-Ye eno lu g g Designed by Sarah C. McPhie, Cutting Edge Design The Textile Museum 2001 Annual Report ©2002




letters exhibitions public programs publications collections volunteers board of trustees advisory board donors fiscal year 2001 staff

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The Textile Museum is dedicated to furthering the understanding of mankind's creative achievements in the textile arts. As a museum, it is committed to its role as a center of excellence in the scholarly research, conservation, interpretation and exhibition of textiles, with particular concern for the artistic, technical and cultural significance of its collections. The mission is pursued through development and maintenance of collections, records and a library, as well as through scholarly research, exhibitions, publications and educational programs. In all of this, the standard of excellence established by the Museum's founder, George Hewitt Myers, will be maintained.

dear friends

The Textile Museum continues to build audiences for the textile arts, nationally and

internationally. Our commitment to textile scholarship through our publications, such as The

Textile Museum Journal and exhibition catalogues, highlights the strengths of our collections and advances knowledge in the field worldwide. On a recent trip to Burma, I was gratified to see an article from the most recent Journal being circulated among members of the Burmese textile community. In the same vein, we continue to pursue the development of the Thesaurus of Textile Arts Terminology, a classification system for cataloguing historical and ethnographic textiles. This thesaurus, to be published on the Internet in 2003, stems from the work of the Lloyd Cotsen Textile Documentation Project. In the past year we have continued to evaluate and explore a long-range plan to relocate The Textile Museum in more suitable quarters. To develop a concept for a prospective new building, the Board of Trustees selected the architectural firm of Cesar Pelli & Associates of New Haven, Connecticut. The selection was based upon Pelli's experience in three areas: in museum design in this country and internationally, the firm's work in Washington, DC -- particularly the Reagan National Airport -- and the ways in which Pelli projects have drawn inspiration from textiles, such as in the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur. The possibilities that a new space could afford The Textile Museum are legion. The opportunity to reposition The Textile Museum both literally and figuratively is a challenge we are exploring with purpose. On behalf of the Board of Trustees and staff of the Museum, I thank you for your support as we build our national and international presence and pursue opportunities to serve our audiences more fully.

David W. Fraser President, Board of Trustees

Having completed our 75th anniversary year in 2000, we maintained our upward momentum in 2001 -- it was a dynamic year for the Textile Museum

Eight widely divergent exhibitions -- including Yemeni ikat textiles, Ghanaian asafo flags, Central Asian pile bags, and the contemporary textile-inspired jewelry of Arline Fisch -- drew 31,559 visitors, a 15 percent increase over 2000 attendance. Close to 60,000 hits on our Web site each month reflect worldwide interest in learning TM news and having the opportunity to comment and pose questions to staff. Textile Museum educational programs are typically filled to capacity -- a testament to the growing interest in the textile arts and in the cultures around the world where handmade textiles are often the principal art form. With members in all 50 states and in over 53 countries, the Museum reaches far beyond the Washington, DC area. In 2001 over 1,100 new members joined The Textile Museum. We launched a biweekly e-mail newsletter, which is now sent to over 2,000 TM members and friends around the world. Our exhibitions were featured in national and international press such as The Washington Post, The New

York Times, Smithsonian Magazine, American Craft, Hali, Delta Sky, International Textiles, and Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot. Generous gifts to our 2001 Sustaining Fund generated a record total of $531,221 for general operating expenses. Our strengths as an institution and our optimism for the future of The Textile Museum stem from the leadership, dedication and generous support of the Museum's Trustees, volunteers and staff. As noted in David Fraser's report, the Board of Trustees began to put our vision for relocating the Museum into more concrete terms. Our Advisory Council has worked with our extraordinary staff to shape our thinking about the potential of our institution in a broad context. Our members and friends have been forthcoming in their work on behalf of the Museum, their advocacy for the textile arts, and their financial contributions which make it possible for us to be forward-looking in our programming. It has become all too obvious that we would all do well to learn more about the diversity of other cultures. With our commitment to presenting exhibitions and programs about the handmade textile traditions from around the world, I am happy that The Textile Museum is able to contribute to this effort.

Ursula E. McCracken Director


From the Amu Darya to the Potomac

Dyeing for Design

December 15, 2000 ­ March 25, 2001 From batik to ikat, there are many ways to resist-dye a textile, with dramatically different results. Dyeing for Design investigated this particular textile-patterning technique and the variety of ways it is used in different parts of the world. The exhibition included a brilliantly-patterned Central Asian ikat dress, a Javanese batik hip wrapper, and a Mixtec bowl decorated with resist-dyed textile designs.

Fanciful Flowers: Botany and the American Quilt

February 23 ­ June 3, 2001 Fanciful Flowers featured an array of botanically-inspired 19TH-century American quilts drawn from the Ardis and Robert James Collection of the International Quilt Study Center at the University of Nebraska, Lincoln. The exhibition included appliquéd and pieced quilts, intricately embroidered crazy quilts, and album quilts--all featuring flowers, color palettes and arrangements that reflected popular gardening styles of the time.

A Calligrapher's Art: Inscribed Cotton Ikat from Yemen

January 26 ­ April 29, 2001 A Calligrapher's Art showcased the Museum's collection of gilded and embroidered cotton ikats from 9thand 10TH-century Yemen purchased by George Hewitt Myers between 1928 and 1952. Curated by Carol Bier, the exhibition explored the inscribed textiles from four perspectives: as a calligrapher's art, the embroiderer's art, the dyer's art, and the weaver's art.

Body Conscious: A Look at Clothing from Around the World

April 27 ­ October 28, 2001 There are numerous ways to wear a piece of cloth ­ it can be cut and sewn, draped or wrapped to create a garment that fits the body. Body Conscious explored the cultural differences and similarities in making and wearing clothing, the cultural signals sent by


color, materials or decoration, and the ways clothing can indicate status, age or social group. Objects included a Chancay style man's tunic from Peru, Tunisian wrap-around dresses, and a tailored 16thcentury Persian tunic.

Fighting Words: Proverbs in Asafo Flags of Ghana

May 25 ­ August 12, 2001 Asafo flags, with lively pictorial renderings of local proverbs, are one way the Fante people of coastal Ghana manifest their rich oral traditions. Witty proverbs such as It is a foolish mouse that steals from the bag of the cat decorated the more than two dozen flags showcased in Fighting Words, curated by Dr. Mattiebelle Gittinger. The inspiration for the exhibition came as a result of textile donations made by Mary Hunt Kahlenberg and Robert Coffland in 1999, and Robert and Nancy Nooter in 2000.

Exhibition coordinator Claudia Brittenham leads of a tour of Japanese Fishermen's Coats from Awaji Island

preted in a variety of ways by Turkmen, Uzbek, Kyrgyz and Baluch ethnic groups. The exhibition, which was guest-curated by Advisory Council member Richard Isaacson, featured objects from private collectors in the mid-Atlantic area as well as Textile Museum holdings.


Japanese Fisherman's Coats from Awaji Island

June 29 ­ September 2, 2001 Elaborately stitched and indigo-dyed coats known as sashiko no donza were the subject of Japansese Fishermen's Coats from Awaji Island, which featured 22 coats, as well as artifacts and photographs illustrating life on the island in the late 19TH century. The exhibition, which explored the tradition of fishermen's coats in a social and historical context, was jointly organized by the UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History and the University Art Museum, University of California, Santa Barbara. The Textile Museum's presentation of Japanese Fishermen's Coats from Awaji Island was sponsored in part by a grant from the E. Rhodes and Leona B. Carpenter Foundation.

Elegant Fantasy: The Jewelry of Arline Fisch

September 28, 2001 ­ January 13, 2002 Arline Fisch's pioneering methods of incorporating metal weaving techniques into jewelry design have made her one of the most influential figures of the post-World War II art jewelry movement. Given that Fisch reaches back to historical textile antecedents as inspiration, The Museum invited the artist to reach into its holdings and draw forth objects that related to her work. Thus, such riches as hats from Palestine and indigenous North America, garments from preColumbian Peru, and textiles from Persia and Egypt were presented together with 60 works from Fisch's 40-year career. Elegant Fantasy was curated by Denny Stone and organized by the San Diego Historical Society. Its presentation at The Textile Museum was conceptualized by Rebecca A.T. Stevens, Consulting Curator, Contemporary Textiles. The Textile Museum's presentation of Elegant Fantasy was sponsored in part by a grant from The Rau Foundation.

From the Amu Darya to the Potomac: Central Asian Bags from Area Collections

September 7, 2001 ­ February 24, 2002 Taking the inspiration for its title from one of Central Asia's most important rivers, the exhibition From the Amu Darya to the Potomac featured pile bags that artfully combine striking designs in beautiful, yet fully functional objects for everyday use. Dating primarily from the 19TH century and earlier, the bags allowed visitors to compare differences in structure and color, as well as similar design motifs interRobert and Nancy Nooter pose in the exhibition Fighting Words with an asafo flag they donated to the Museum



A member of Fantse Kuw performs a traditional Ghanaian asafo flag dance in the Museum's garden

The Museum's educational programs introduce visitors to the rich history of the textile arts and their context in the cultures where they are produced. Programs are designed to complement and add dimension to our exhibitions and encourage visitors to explore how textiles are made, who makes them, and why they are important. Each year thousands of adults, school children, and families take part in docent-led tours, lectures, family festival days, and hands-on workshops that highlight the textiles and cultures featured in our exhibitions.


Festival Days

Family Festival days have long been a tradition at The Textile Museum. In 2001, several festival events welcomed families to the Museum and offered engaging activities for all ages. The 1,000 visitors who took part in the Winter Family Festival Day held at the end of February experimented with hot-wax batik, quilting and paper weaving. During Celebration of Textiles Day in June, 1,300 visitors watched sheep shearing in the Museum's gardens and participated in an array of textile-related activities including feltmaking, natural dyeing, and basketweaving. In mid-July the Museum's gardens came alive with the rhythms of Fantse Kuw, a local asafo group that performed traditional Ghanaian flagdancing accompanied by drummers and vocalists. More than 250 visitors watched the performance, toured the exhibition Fighting Words: Proverbs in Asafo Flags of Ghana, and created their own "flag" with a pictorial proverb.

Gail Martin comments on Central Asian ikats during the Rug Convention Show-and-Tell program

Workshops & Symposia

In connection with Fanciful Flowers: Botany and the American Quilt, young adults took part in a quilting workshop where they made pillow tops or wall hangings inspired by the exhibition. The Museum also presented a day-long symposia focused on 19TH-century quilting traditions and motifs. Speakers included curator of Fanciful Flowers Carolyn Ducey, garden historian Elizabeth McLean, and quilt-makers Jeanne Benson and Janice Maves. To complement Japanese Fisherman's Coats from Awaji Island, Washington-based artist Lucy Arai led a workshop on sashiko, the Japanese needlework technique highlighted in the exhibition. Inspired by the exhibition From the Amu Darya to the Potomac, the Museum's 24TH Annual Rug Convention explored Central Asian nomadic culture and its weavings. More than 125 participants gathered for a weekend of textile scholarship and presentations by anthropologists Thomas Barfield and Stephanie Bunn, Elena Tsareva, Curator of the Central Asian Department at the Russian Ethnographic Museum, Kate FitzGibbon, and James Blackmon. Arline Fisch, whose work was the subject of the retrospective exhibition Elegant Fantasy, led a two-day hands-on jewelry workshop that introduced participants to textile techniques in metal.

New Collectors' Series

In 2001, we introduced a series of lectures to give new collectors an opportunity to explore the art of collecting, and gather basic information about different types of rugs and textiles, and the range of educational resources available to learn more about specific areas of interest. Audiences at New Collectors' lectures enjoyed such topics as: Online Collecting Resources, The Art of Collecting, Collecting Bags & Containers, Discerning Quality in Rugs and Carpets, Oriental Rug Weave: Foundation, Materials & Care, Collecting Oriental Rugs at Auction, and Collecting Rug Fragments.

public programs


Rug & Textile Appreciation Mornings

For more than 30 years, the Saturday Rug & Textile Appreciation Mornings have been a mainstay on The TM programming calendar, giving visitors an opportunity to expand their knowledge of textiles and gain insight into the cultures that produce them. Formatted as a lecture series with show-andtell components, the Saturday Morning programs have a loyal following. Lectures included such diverse topics as Wool Embroideries from Britain and the United States, Fakes, Forgeries and Frauds, 19THCentury American Quilts, The ABC's of Textiles, Commemorative Cloths of Africa, Caucasian Rugs, Central Asian Weavings, and Lakai Textiles.

Experimenting with hot wax batik at Winter Family Festival Day

Making bracelets woven of reeds and other natural fibers at Celebrations Day

public programs

School Programs

School programs at the Museum are designed to complement exhibitions, include touchable items, and enhance the curriculum in a variety of subject areas, including social studies, visual arts, and history. In 2001, more than 700 school children visited the Museum to tour exhibitions and explore the hands-on Textile Learning Center. Many local school groups visited Body Conscious: A Look at Clothing Around the World, which complemented a classroom component on clothing. Horizons Committee sponsors textile-related tours, lectures, and events. In 2001, the committee sponsored a behind-the-scenes tour of area museums, including the Cultural Resources Center of the Smithsonian's National Museum of the American Indian, the contemporary textile collection at the Renwick Gallery, and The Textile Museum. The New Horizons Committee also hosted a lecture on classifying Chinese textiles in the Victoria & Albert Museum by Verity Wilson, curator in the V & A's Far Eastern Department, and -- a dinner celebrating the exhibition Tribal Traditions: Village and Nomadic Weaving of Anatolia.

Curatorial & Conservation Consultation

The first Wednesday of the month (September to May), visitors are invited to bring in up to three textiles as part of the Museum's Conservation and Eastern Hemisphere Curatorial Consultation. Curators assist visitors with object identification and conservators provide recommendations on how to best care for and preserve their textiles. In 2001, more than 125 visitors took advantage of the Conservation and Eastern Hemisphere Curatorial Consultations.

Study Tours

Museum Study Tours are another way members can gain an in-depth knowledge of the textiles and cultures represented by the Museum's collections and exhibitions. Tours feature knowledgeable guides and unique itineraries that combine visits to historic sites, traditional textile workshops, and artisans' studios. The Museum sponsored a three-week tour to India led by Judy Frater, a scholar who lives and works in Bhuj, India, and a tour to the Transcaucasian Republics of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan led by Paul and Martha Henze.

New Horizons Committee

Established in 1990 with a mission of broadening the Museum's reach in the community, the New 10


The Textile Museum Journal 1999 ­ 2000, eds. Carol Bier and Ann Pollard Rowe, vols. 38 and 39, 2001. INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING ARTICLES: Subduing Demons: Women and Weaving in Rupshu, Monisha Ahmed Notes from the Field: On the Trail of Khumi, Khami, and Mro Textiles, Deborah Lindsay Garner and Jay Bommer Textiles of the Southern Thêi of Viêt Nam, Michael C. Howard and Kim Be Howard Men's Knitted Caps from Chinchero, Nilda Callañaupa and Ann Pollard Rowe Tablet-woven Curtains from Ethiopia: New Light on a Puzzling Group of Textiles, Martha Henze A Group of Possibly Thirteenth-Century Velvets with Gold Disks in Offset Rows, Milton Sonday Bulletin (published quarterly), eds. Rachel Bucci and Julia Neubauer. 2000 Textiles Bibliography, compiled and edited by Mary Mallia. Washington, DC: The Textile Museum and Earleville, MD: The Textile Society of America, 2001.

Kimono, Japan, TM 2001.27.3. Gift of Mrs. Takakazu Kuriyama



"Steeped in Tradition," Hali, no. 114, January/ February 2001, p. 37. " `Village Voices' Raises Provocative Questions Concerning Constructed Meanings," Ghereh, no. 26, Winter 2000, p. 51-53. "Understanding Islam: Resources on the Web," The Baltimore, November 7 , 2001, <> "Resources to Learn about Islam," Institute for Christian and Jewish Studies Web site, 2001, <> "Visions of Infinity: Looking at Symmetry in Islamic Art," paper presented at the 5TH International Congress and Exhibition for the International Society for the Interdisciplinary Study of Symmetry (ISIS-Symmetry), Sydney, July 2001. "Symmetry-Breaking in Oriental Carpets," ISISSymmetry CD-ROM, Sydney, July 2001.

"Japanese Fishermen's Coats from Awaji Island," Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot, vol. 32, no.3, Summer 2001, p.17-21.



"Elegant Fantasy: The Jewelry of Arline Fisch," Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot, vol. 32, no. 4, Fall 2001, p. 17-20.


"The Evolution of a Thesaurus of Textile Arts Terminology," Oxford Asian Textile Group Newsletter, no. 20, October 2001, p. 8-10.


"The Threads of Tapestry," Karpit/Tapestry, ed. Edit Andras, Budapest, Hungary: The Museum of Fine Arts, 2001. "10TH International Triennial of Tapestry and Much More," Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot, vol.33, no. 1, Winter 2001/2002, p. 18-20. "Karpit-Tapestry," (with Beatrijis Sterk), Textile Forum, March 2001, p. 23.



Charles Grant Ellis, whose archives came into The Textile Museum's collections in 2001, examines a rug in the Kyoto National Museum during his visit there in 1986

Collections are the heart of any museum. As appreciation for the textile arts grows, so does collectors' interest in donating important rugs and textiles to The Textile Museum's collections. In 2001 many notable textiles were accessioned into the Museum's holdings, including 93 Eastern Hemisphere textiles and 73 Western Hemisphere textiles.

Manuscript Collection of Charles Grant Ellis

A unique resource came into The Textile Museum's possession in 2001 -- the archives of Charles Grant Ellis. Charlie Ellis (1908-1996) served as a Research Associate at The Textile Museum for more than 25 years and was recognized as perhaps the foremost authority on Oriental carpets. The collection includes


Ellis's correspondence files, photographs and slides, travel notebooks, and notes and analyses of individual rugs in private and public collections worldwide. The collection also includes drafts of lectures and publications, exhibition planning files, and copies of articles and manuscripts by Ellis's colleagues.


His Excellency, Abdulwahab A. Al-Hajjri, Mary Balzer Buskirk Ambassador of the Republic of Yemen Joan Batchelor Dr. Jane Armstrong M. Bodtker Ed Carter Jorge Colaço Jane and Worth B. Daniels, Jr. Jed Taro Dornburg Della Dash Margot Gerson Mr. and Mrs. Joseph W. Fell Mattiebelle Gittinger Mae Festa Mohammed Ilali Bernard Fisken Richard Isaacson Harry and Diane Greenberg George Krotoff N.L. Greenway Jung-sook Lee Dr. and Mrs. Walter H. Hodge Christi Lan Lin Joyce F. Kater-Hoeke Arlene McBair Ann Knox Katie Reeder Meek Mrs. Takakazu Kuriyama Lynne Lederman Detail of sofreh (floor spread), Caroline McCoy-Jones Turkey, Ottoman Empire, Bill and Joann Meeks TM 2001.6.1. Gift of Roy P. Mottahedeh Roy P. Mottahedah Marion Stirling Pugh James and Irmtraud Reswick James Saakvitne John and Donna Sommer David and Isabel Taylor Edward Thawnghmung Robert W. and Silvia B. Zimmermann


Bonnie O'Connell Betty Rosenberg Dr. David M. Sa'adah Helen Simon (books of Myrtle Simon) John L. Sommer Joanne Soroka Rebecca A.T. Stevens Dr. Paul Vandenbroeck Kristine Vejar Ray Westbrook Eileen White Joyce Williams


Volunteers are vital to the operation of The Textile Museum. From the members of the Board of Trustees and Advisory Council who provide governance in shaping Museum initiatives, to departmental interns who help with a variety of administrative tasks, loyal volunteers have provided their valuable time and talent to all the departments of the Museum.

In 2001, the Museum instituted a formal Program Volunteers group, providing the opportunity for members of the community interested in short-term volunteer projects to be more involved with the Museum. Members of this group helped out with various evening and weekend programs, such as Rug Convention, lectures, exhibition opening receptions, and Family Festival days. The Museum's Study Tour program is dependent on a volunteer Study Tour Manager who has extensive experience from years in the Middle East with the State Department. Other Textile Museum volunteers include those in the Arthur D. Jenkins Library who shelve books and assist with bookbinding, and members of the New Horizons Committee who help to plan tours and dinners for the Museum. With the help of 21 dedicated docents, the Museum was able to provide free tours to more than 1,500 visitors in 2001. Forty-one volunteer presenters enabled the Museum to offer 33 Saturday Rug & Textile Appreciation Mornings. Altogether 198 Textile Museum volunteers contributed 7,784 work hours to the Museum in 2001.

TM Docent Albertina Frenkel (left) and Program Volunteer Gabrielle Tyler greet participants and distribute registration packets at the 24th Annual Rug Convention.




In addition to the many volunteers listed below, we wish to acknowledge the members of the Museum staff who generously contributed volunteer service in 2001.

Dennis R. Dodds Robert J. Emry Joseph W. Fell James A. Ffrench Lisa Finn Mike Finn Melody Gordon Healy R. John Howe Cheryl Imperatore Richard Isaacson Phyllis Kane Harold M. Keshishian Mark S. Keshishian Irina Koshoridze Dabney N. Lewis Mikal Mast Nancy Nooter Robert H. Nooter Irene M. Petty Gordon W. Priest Marjorie Ransom Michael Seidman Daniel A. Sellers Ev Shorey Joan Shorey Wendel R. Swan Gerald W. Thompson Lisa Watanaki Nora Watanaki Andrew Weber David Weiss John T. Wertime Louise B. Wheatley David Zahirpour Edwin M. Zimmerman


A member of Daughters of Dorcas and Sons leads a quilting activity at Celebration of Textiles Day


Sabita Sankaran Elizabeth Stockton Stephanie Kapplow Wise


Carol Ross


Julie Evans Richard Isaacson Ellen McQueary Michael W. Monroe Melissa Rudder Kristine Vejar



Mary W. Ballard Mary Dusenbury Judith Strupp Green Norman Indictor Grace Johnson Diana Ryesky Kathy Staples Bobbie Sumberg James Trilling Sara Wolf


Joan T. Batchelor Kathy Schmidt


Petra Deul


Anne H. Adams B.J. Adams Tavishi Alagh Meg Arai Heidi Bahr Brenda Batt Sharon Bearfield Jeff Binsley Cynthia Boyer Karen Brown Shelly Bruner Lynne Caldwell Carlos Centeno Barbara L. Coon Barbara Craig Nancy S. Davis Virginia Delfico Ann Eichenberger Katherine England Ellen Ennes

Kathryn Ennes Jane Fletcher Geniesse Barbara L. Gentile Mahin Ghanbari Monica Glockner Peggy Greenwood Molly Gummere Martha Henze Mary Alice Hern Sandra M. Hoexter Paula Hunt Richard Isaacson Nancy Johnson Richard Kavanaugh Ann Liddle Andrea Lowther Susanne McCoy Ursula G. McKinney Jordon McLeish Patrice Miller Sarah Miller Ellery Allen Owens Claire Paisley-Jones Heather Paisley-Jones Beverly Ringel Ambika Sankaran Faith SanFelice Michael Seidman John L. Sommer Srini Srinivasan Becky Suma Wendel Swan Gerald W. Thompson Adrienne Torrey Kenneth R. Trapp Elena Tsareva Matt Urda Lisa Watanaki Andrew Weber Rich Wengler John Wertime Lisa Young Mohamed Zakariya Edwin M. Zimmerman


Jane Hart, Co-Chair Katharine C. Hart, Co-Chair Caroline Backlund Jeanne Beekhuis Elisabeth R. French Virginia McGehee Friend Sandra M. Hoexter Phyllis Kane Jill Martin Pauli McClanahan Elmerina Parkman Jane Moss McCune Rebecca A.T. Stevens Florence Stone


Bassam Al-Kahouji Lucy Arai Saul Barodofsky Donald Berzosky Annet Couwenberg Raymond G. Dobard

Ingrid Caverly, Docent Chair Margaret Mast, Vice Chair/Social Events Diane Castrodale, Librarian Jerrilyn Pudschun, Treasurer/Statistician Marcia Collins, Secretary Penelope Pollard, Scheduler Patricia Reilly, Substitute Scheduler Jeanne Barnett June Bland Pat Collett Sheridan Collins Albertina Frenkel Joan Jackson Ethelmary Maddox Joyce Martin Suzanne Newberry Ethelyn Owen Deborah Riesenbach

Valentina Arbab, President Ed Gomperts, Vice President Janet Kobrin, Secretary Steve Porter, Treasurer Ann Trinz, Member-at-Large Mary Jane Leland, Member-at-Large Leonard Kattan, Member-at-Large Tom Kosakowski, Member-at-Large Fred Krieger, Textile Museum Liaison and ACOR Representative Tom Rutherford, Past President


Cheri Hunter, Program Lucilla Warren, Newsletter Editor Vera Indenbaum Tobe, Hospitality Carol Porter, Membership Stella Krieger, Honorary Memberships Marylin Kattan, Historian




David W. Fraser, President Daniel B. Silver, Vice President Roderick DeArment, Treasurer Joseph W. Fell, Assistant Treasurer Alexander Crary, Secretary Alice Dodge Wallace, Assistant Secretary Lloyd E. Cotsen, Advisor Edwin M. Zimmerman, Advisor


Betty D. Battle Cynthia R. Boyer Thomas D. Cook Aaron Feuerstein Virginia McGehee Friend Hannelore Grantham Shirley Z. Johnson Robert H. Nooter Deno Papageorge Eleanor Rosenfeld Joan Shorey John L. Sommer Florence Stone George S. Vest

Front Row (l to r): Crary, Battle, Rosenfeld, Wallace. Middle Row (l to r): Grantham, Shorey, Friend, Silver, Cook, Sommer, Johnson, Stone. Back Row (l to r): Zimmerman, Nooter, Fraser, Lehfeldt.


Sheila Hicks Christian C. Hohenlohe Harold M. Keshishian Frederick E. Landmann William W. Lehfeldt William T. Price Marion Stirling Pugh* Nicolas M. Salgo

Elizabeth Ettinghausen Jack Lenor Larsen



George S. Vest, Chair Jon M. Anderson Kenneth Bachman Bruce Baganz Joan Baldridge Jeanne Beekhuis Anne Braxton Julia Burke Ingrid Caverly Jane Daniels Bentley Terrace Dillard Joseph P. Doherty Lewis Eidson Colin England Kathy Epstein Mae L. Festa Louise Feuerstein Laura Fisher R. Jeremy Grantham Ann Lane Hedlund Karen Hein Martha Henze Fred Ingham Susan Ingham Richard Isaacson Joan Jacobson Christine Mullen Kreamer Fred Krieger Joan Long Anne L. Mehringer Carnig Minasian Kurt Munkacsi Fred Mushkat K. Thomas Noell Elmerina Parkman Rushton E. Patterson, Jr. Marta Phillips Lucia Buchanan Pierce Lydia A. Preston Sheldon Rapoport Sandra Read Peter Reed George Rogers Carol C. Ross Stanley Roth Jacqueline Rothschild Fred Seibold Wendel Swan Margaret Wallace Béa Welsh Weicker Marc Weksler Sandra G. Whitman Ellie Wotherspoon

Front Row (l to r): Braxton, Preston, Jacobson, Minasian, Anderson, F. Krieger. Second Row (l to r): Whitman, Parkman, S. Ingham, S. Krieger, Daniels, Henze, Pierce, Festa. Third Row (l to r): Wotherspoon, England, Caverly, Weksler, Hein, Mehringer, Hedlund, Isaacson, Wallace. Back Row (l to r): Baganz, Weicker, Patterson, Swan, F. Ingham, Doherty, Beekhuis, Burke.








Dress, India, TM 2001.5.1. Purchased with funds from the Ruth Lincoln Fisher Memorial Fund


The Textile Museum gratefully acknowledges the generosity of those who help the Museum fulfill its mission as a center of excellence in the scholarly research, conservation and exhibition of textiles. Gifts of $250 and above received during the 2001 fiscal year (January 1, 2001 through December 31, 2001) are listed below. The Museum extends its sincere thanks to all members and Sustaining Fund donors.


Bruce P. Baganz and Olive W. Baganz Houston, TX Cynthia and Alton Boyer Alexandria, VA Mr. and Mrs. Lloyd E. Cotsen Los Angeles, CA Dr. and Mrs. Worth B. Daniels, Jr. Baltimore, MD Joseph W. and Judith Fell Chicago, IL Virginia McGehee Friend Waterford, VA R. Jeremy and Hannelore Grantham Boston, MA Ms. Shirley Z. Johnson and Mr. Charles Rumph Washington, DC

Caroline McCoy-Jones Ware Neck, VA Deno D. Papageorge New Hope, PA Mr. and Mrs. Luther S. Roehm Summit, NJ Joan and Ev Shorey Washington, DC Daniel and Sybil Silver Chevy Chase, MD Dr. John L. Sommer and Dr. Donna M. Sommer Fremont, CA Alice Dodge Wallace Boulder, CO Béa Welsh Weicker Berkeley, CA Mr. and Mrs. E.M. Zimmerman Washington, DC


Two Anonymous Donors Mrs. Lucius D. Battle Washington, DC Tom and Fay Cook Evanston, IL Colin and Lee England Bethesda, MD Ruth Lincoln Fisher Memorial Trust David and Barbara Fraser Yardley, PA Harry and Diane Greenberg Palo Alto, CA Joan Teer Jacobson Tucson, AZ Matthew S. Polk, Jr. and Amy L. Gould Gibson Island, MD Mr. Frederick C. Seibold, Jr. Arlington, VA

United Arts Organization of Greater Washington


Four Anonymous Donors Jon M. and Deborah Anderson Columbus, OH Jean Ann and Robert Augsburger Los Altos, CA Patricia Beall Bach Silver Spring, MD Sylvia Bergstrom and Joe Rothstein Washington, DC Anne Braxton Athens, OH Jane Venable Brown Winchester, KY Mr. David Dew Bruner New York, NY


Ms. Pauline I. Carroll Birmingham, AL Young Yang Chung New York, NY Mr. and Mrs. Robert G. Cleveland Washington, DC Sheridan and Richard Collins Arlington, VA Mary and David Colton Albuquerque, NM Ms. Arlene C. Cooper New York, NY Alexander D. Crary Washington, DC Rosalee and Richard Davison Baltimore, MD Mr. and Mrs. Roderick DeArment Great Falls, VA Joseph P. Doherty New York, NY Elizabeth S. Ettinghausen, in memory of Richard Ettinghausen Princeton, NJ Dr. Susan J. Fiester Bethesda, MD Ms. Laura Fisher Bedford Hills, NY Elisabeth R. French Washington, DC Mr. and Mrs. George S. Harris Bethesda, MD Mr. and Mrs. John Limond Hart Washington, DC Mrs. Parker T. Hart Washington, DC Mr. and Mrs. Mones E. Hawley Washington, DC George and Marie Hecksher San Francisco, CA Dr. Karen Hein and Dr. Ralph Dell New York, NY Donald L. Holley Paris, France Mr. Joseph F. Horning and Mrs. Lynne N. Horning Washington, DC Mr. George J. Hossfeld and Mrs. Mary Jo Hossfeld Huntington, NY Mr. Fred Ingham and Mrs. Susan Ingham Seattle, WA

Nancy Jeffries and Kurt Munkacsi New York, NY Nobuko Kajitani New York, NY Cornelius F. Keating New Canaan, CT Dr. and Mrs. Duane Kline, Jr. Cheyenne, WY Mrs. Louis B. Kohn II Lutherville, MD Mr. and Mrs. Frederick E. Landmann Hanover, NH Mr. and Mrs. William W. Lehfeldt Potomac, MD Darcy J. Lenzgrinden Grand Rapids, MI Don and Pamela Lichty Honolulu, HI E. B. and Joan C. Long Akron, OH Maud Mater Great Falls, VA Edward and Ursula McCracken Baltimore, MD Mr. and Mrs. Armen S. Minasian Evanston, IL Mr. and Mrs. Carnig A. Minasian Evanston, IL Mrs. Marie E. Minnich and Mr. Stephen J. Minnich Danville, PA Fred and Kathleen Mushkat Charlotte, VT Elsie Nazarian Washington, DC Robert and Nancy Nooter Washington, DC Dr. Sanford L. Palay Concord, MA Dr. Rushton E. Patterson, Jr. Memphis, TN David and Judith Peterson Pittsboro, NC Michael and Penelope Pollard Chevy Chase, MD Mrs. William M. Preston Washington, DC Sheldon Rapoport Lahore, Pakistan Dr. Sandra I. Read and Dr. Hugh F. Hill III Washington, DC

Trustees Ed Zimmerman and Lloyd Cotsen at the annual Founder's Dinner

Mr. and Mrs. Fred M. Richman New York, NY George Rogers and Patrick Watson Boston, MA Professor and Mrs. Richard Rose Helensburgh, Scotland Mr. and Mrs. Samuel J. Rosenfeld Chevy Chase, MD Stanley Owen Roth Alexandria, VA Mr. and Mrs. Robert H. Rountree Fort Worth, TX Mr. and Mrs. Peter B. Seamans Marblehead, MA Stephen and Bonnie Simon Washington, DC Ms. Amelia L. Stafford Cambridge, MA Mr. and Mrs. Gary Stevens Washington, DC Florence and Roger Stone Washington, DC Mary Hammond Sullivan Wilmington, DE Dr. Marc E. Weksler and Dr. Babette Weksler Tenafly, NJ Virginia West Baltimore, MD Sandra G. Whitman San Francisco, CA Ann L. Willard New York, NY Janney and Jean M. Wilson Purcellville, VA Leila F. Wilson Mitchellville, MD Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence A. Wishner Fredericksburg, VA Mr. David Zahirpour and Mrs. Shirin Zahirpour Rockville, MD


2 Anonymous Donors James and Marjorie Akins Washington, DC Joan W. Baldridge New York, NY Helen and Daniel Banes Silver Spring, MD Dr. and Mrs. William H. Batchelor Washington, DC Mr. and Mrs. Roger Blackshaw New York, NY Mr. Bernei Burgunder and Mrs. Amelie B. Burgunder Chevy Chase, MD Rebecca and Gene Christy Arlington, VA Michael and Georgia de Havenon New York, NY Jane B. Evensen Arlington, VA Gisela and Bill Evitt Stanford, CA Mr. Marc Feldman New York, NY Mae Festa New Haven, CT Dr. Giraud V. Foster and Mrs. Carolyn E. Foster Baltimore, MD Nelson and Priscilla Gibbs Los Angeles, CA David Greenblatt and Sheila Gelman Cincinnati, OH



Allen and Clara Gresham San Bernardino, CA Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hollensteiner Washington, DC Mrs. Margot Kelly Washington, DC Mr. and Mrs. Harold M. Keshishian Washington, DC Frederick and Stella Krieger Los Angeles, CA Mr. Robert E. Krueger and Mrs. Elizabeth W. Krueger Lafayette, CA

Michael Seidman and Lynda Couvillion Washington, DC Mr. William S. Siegal Santa Fe, NM Mr. and Mrs. Everett G. Spurling Bethesda, MD Mr. and Mrs. Hervey S. Stockman Albuquerque, NM David and Isabel Taylor Washington, DC Textile Museum Associates of Southern California Los Angeles, CA Textile Museum Docents Washington, DC Mr. Bruce Thayer and Mrs. Nancy Thayer Webster, NY Christa C. Thurman Winnetka, IL Larry and Marilyn Waisanen Great Falls, VA Mr. Jeffrey M. Zell and Mrs. Lauri Zell Washington, DC


Patricia Bauman and the Honorable John L. Bryant Washington, DC Mr. Mark Bayuk Arlington, VA Mr. William B. Bechhoefer and Mrs. Sondra Bechhoefer Bethesda, MD Ms. Margaret L. Bishop Tucson, AZ Mr. Stephen K. Bonnet San Ramon, CA Ms. Karen J. Boyd and Mr. William Boyd Racine, WI Mr. and Mrs. Michael Caverly Gettysburg, PA Michael A. Ceurvorst and Lucille Barale Ceurvorst Hong Kong, China Mr. Larry Chernikoff and Mrs. Allison B. Chernikoff Washington, DC Earl M. Collier and Maren Anderson Newton, MA Andrew L. and Gayle Shaw Camden Detroit, MI Ken and Jane Cole Washington, DC Romayne Cox Galveston, TX Douglas Dawson Chicago, IL Mr. Richard Denison and Ms. Paula Bryan Providence, RI Mr. Mark DeOca and Mr. Harold J. Hendershot New York, NY Mrs. Frederick Dockstader New York, NY Mr. and Mrs. Dorsey Dunn Washington, DC Dr. Earl V. Dunn and Dr. Ruth Dunn Al Ain, United Arab Emirates Mariana T. Durbin Arlington, VA Ms. Mary Dusenbury Attica, KS Elizabeth and Julian Eisenstein Washington, DC Ms. Lesley Ewing and Mr. Gerald F. Tremblay Frederick, MD

Ms. Rebecca Fenneman and Mr. Ed Fenneman Arlington, VA Ms. Kathy FitzGerald Washington, DC Mr. and Mrs. George Gardner Minnetonka, MN In Memory of Margie Garrett Washington, DC Ms. Beth Greenberg and Mr. Jim Wright New York, NY Sarah and Edgar Hagopian Birmingham, MI Kathryn L. Hatch Tucson, AZ Dr. Ann Lane Hedlund and Mr. Kit Schweitzer Tucson, AZ Mr. Andrew Janquitto and Ms. Elizabeth Albert Ruxton, MD Valerie and George Justin Sag Harbor, NY Ms. Mary H. Kahlenberg and Mr. Robert Coffland Santa Fe, NM Ms. Catherine Kahrs Pomona, NY Sona Kalousdian and Ira Lawrence Chicago, IL Edward and Phyllis Kane Washington, DC Ms. Leah Kaplan and Mr. Jon Smollen Washington, DC Ruth Kaufmann New York, NY Ms. Julie M. Klement and Mr. Joe Bernstein Alexandria, VA Mr. James Klumpner and Mrs. Elsie Klumpner Silver Spring, MD Sherley Koteen Washington, DC Ross and Christine Kreamer Washington, DC Ms. Ann Lennartz Seattle, WA Richard L. Linkins Arlington, VA Mr. Arthur K. Mason and Mrs. Jane S. Mason Washington, DC W. Howard McDonald Saltspring, British Columbia


Mr. and Mrs. Frank A. Ladd Amarillo, TX Linda Lee Lowry Brooklyn, NY Leigh A. Marsh Philadelphia, PA Dorothy M. McClatchey Clayton, GA Ms. Katherine W. Merten San Diego, CA Ms. Susan L. Miller and Mr. Elon H. Gilbert Arlee, MT M. Joy Moore and Mark D. Myers Washington, NC Ms. Jill A. Moorier Belton, MO Mrs. Helen M. Murway Rocky River, OH Dr. David A. Paly Gig Harbor, WA Elmerina and Paul Parkman Kensington, MD Dr. and Mrs. William T. Price Amarillo, TX Mr. and Mrs. Owen W. Roberts Washington, DC

Six Anonymous Donors Mr. and Mrs. Robert T. Atwood Charlotte, NC Mr. and Mrs. Kenneth L. Bachman, Jr. Bethesda, MD Jean Galloway Ball and James R. Ball II Bethesda, MD Jeanne B. Barnett McLean, VA Mr. Dennis Barry and Ms. Judith Hecht Washington, DC


Artist Arline Fisch talks with TM Trustee Cynthia Boyer at the opening reception for Elegant Fantasy.

Kilim (warp direction horizontal), Tunisia, TM 2001.10.7. From the Irmtraud H. Reswick Collection

Eleanor McMillan Glyndon, MD Mr. Charles Merrill, Jr. Boston, MA Mr. Eric Michael Washington, DC Dr. Florence K. Millar Bethesda, MD Dr. and Mrs. William L. Mundy Shawnee, KS Donald C. and Carol Noble Reno, NV Mr. Braham Norwick and Mrs. Thérèse Norwick New York, NY Nonna A. Noto Washington, DC Mrs. Patricia O'Connor and Mr. Paul R. O'Connor St. Paul, MN Dr. Leslie E. Orgel and Mrs. Alice Orgel La Jolla, CA Dr. Seymour Perlin and Mrs. Ruth R. Perlin Bethesda, MD Trudy and Gary Peterson Washington, DC Ms. Evelyn A. Petschek Washington, DC Mr. Roger S. Pratt and Mrs. Claire Pratt Basking Ridge, NJ Mary H. Pujol Barcelona, Spain Ms. Rosemarie Rauzino-Heller and Mr. Robert Heller Rockville, MD Mr. Earl Ravenal and Ms. Carol M. Ravenal Washington, DC Dr. Gladys M. Riddell Summerville, SC

Ms. Letitia Rogers and Mr. Phillip M. Payne Littleton, CO Mr. James Saakvitne New York, NY Ms. Susan Safer Washington, DC Ms. Emily M. Scheuer Washington, DC Mrs. Frederick Seibold New York, NY Ms. Margie M. Shackelford and Mr. Alex Caragonne San Antonio, TX Mr. Dean Smith and Mrs. Andrée Smith Washington, DC Mr. Tefft Smith and Ms. Nancy Smith Washington, DC Mr. and Mrs. Thomas R. Stauffer Washington, DC Ms. Lina A. Steele Washington, DC Alissa Stern and Louis Boorstin Bethesda, MD Roberta and Jerry Tankel McLean, VA Mr. Tom H. Tarantino and Ms. Barbara Scott Philadelphia, PA Peter and Rhoda Trooboff Washington, DC Mr. Alexander B. Trowbridge and Mrs. Eleanor H. Trowbridge Washington, DC Mr. and Mrs. George S. Vest Bethesda, MD Ms. Yoshiko I. Wada and Mr. Hercules D. Morphopoulos Berkeley, CA

Mr. and Mrs. James N. Wallace Vienna, VA Dr. Ida M. Welsh Mendham, NJ Ms. Christy Wise and Mr. Robert Axelrod Washington, DC Eleonore Wotherspoon Washington, DC


The J. M. Kaplan Fund Irving Kohn Foundation Inc. The Landmann Foundation The Ronald and Maxine Linde Foundation The Page & Otto Marx, Jr. Foundation Mid Atlantic Arts Foundation National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers Foundation Ralph E. Ogden Foundation, Inc. The Rau Foundation Gloria F. Ross Foundation The Esther Simon Charitable Trust The Charles H. Stout Foundation The Wampus Fund Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf Foundation


Two Anonymous Foundations Jane and Worth B. Daniels, Jr. Fund of the Baltimore Community Foundation Judy Kohn Family Fund of the Baltimore Jewish Community Charitable Fund The Rotten Dock Fund at the Boston Foundation The Morris and Gwendolyn Cafritz Foundation The Community Foundation for the National Capital Region Community Foundation for Southeastern Michigan The Cooper Family Foundation Cotsen Family Foundation The Charles Delmar Foundation The Max and Victoria Dreyfus Foundation Inc. Flohr Family Foundation Friends of Fiber Art International Institute of Turkish Studies Robert and Ardis James Foundation



ExxonMobil Foundation The Freddie Mac Foundation Grantham, Mayo, Van Otterloo Merrill Lynch & Company Foundation, Inc. Mobil Foundation, Inc. The Peruvian Connection


D.C. Commission on the Arts and Humanities Institute of Museum and Library Services National Capital Arts and Cultural Affairs Program


The Museum was successful in exceeding many of the operating revenue goals for the year in the areas of lobby donations, Sustaining Fund gifts, and membership. Total operating revenues of $2,700,592 were used towards program and support expenditures of $2,696,966, leaving a slight excess of $3,636. For the period ending December 31, 2001, the total market value of the Museum's long-term investments were $15,520,018, which compares to $15,842,374 at year-end 2000. The Museum's total net assets increased $1,266,447 in 2001 to $19,914,108.

Fundraising 3% Museum Shop & Other 17% Program Services 60%

2001 Operating Expenses

fiscal year 2001

Management & General 20%

Museum Shop & Others 18%

Public Programs 2% Individuals 38%

2001 Operating Revenue

Investments 27%

Corporate & Foundation Gifts 3%

Government Grants 12%



December 31, 2001 (with comparative totals for 2000)


CURRENT ASSETS: Cash and cash equivalents Receivables Inventories Prepaid expenses Total current assets Receivables Fixed assets, net Investments Collections


$2,276,068 1,196,984 188,894 64,818 3,726,764 300 667,026 15,520,018 -


$1,121,117 599,129 199,514 44,338 1,964,098 143,641 697,548 15,842,374 -

fiscal year 2001





LIABILITIES: Accounts payable and accrued expenses NET ASSETS: Unrestricted: Available for operations Net investment in fixed assets Board-designated for long-term investment $82,294 $163,482

511,192 667,026 5,883,325 7,061,543 4,064,716 8,705,555 19,831,814 $19,914,108

507,566 697,548 6,167,681 7,372,795 2,084,306 9,027,078 18,484,179 $18,647,661

Temporarily restricted Permanently restricted Total net assets TOTAL LIABILIITIES AND NET ASSETS

The Textile Museum is a nonprofit educational institution. This financial report is based on an independently audited financial statement. For a copy of the complete financial statement, please write to The Textile Museum Development Office, 2320 S Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20008, or call 202-667-0441. 21



Ursula E. McCracken, Director Justina Barrett, Assistant to the Director* Melanie Rogers, Assistant to the Director* Crystal Sammons, Director of Finance and Administration Asarta Howard, Accounting Manager* Teti Goodarzi, Finance Assistant* Cypriana Hicklen, Finance Assistant/ Accounting Assistant Tricia Wright, Accounting Assistant* Kristen Frank, Receptionist* Louise O'Sullivan, Receptionist*


Rachel Bucci, Director of Marketing and Communications Julia Neubauer, Public Information Assistant Sara Trautman-Ye eno lu, Development Associate g g Melissa Davis Urda, Development Manager Sheila Freeman, Development Assistant/ Receptionist


Theresa Esterlund, Director of Education* Nicole Evans, Education Program Coordinator


Mary Mallia, Librarian Doris Hendershot, Library Assistant*


Richard Timpson, Director of Facilities and Exhibition Production Franklin Petty, Facilities Assistant Doug Anderson, Exhibitions and Maintenance Technician Greg Taylor, Custodian*


Lynne Perdue, Collections Manager/ Registrar Rachel Shabica, Assistant Registrar Jennifer Heimbecker, Photo Archives Manager


Sandy Danielson, Manager Lori Durgin, Assistant Manager Diego Silva, Mail Order Manager Lisa Salyer, Museum Shop Assistant


Sonja Nielsen, Project Director Carrie Beauchamp, Project Associate* Cecilia Cash, Curatorial Associate* Brewer Thompson, Project Assistant*


Anne Ennes, Associate Conservator for Collections Cynthia Hughes, Conservator for Exhibitions

Jackie Eley Jennifer Ferrie Marya Kahn Novera King Michelle Martello Jordan McLeish Lee Ann Sklar




Ann Pollard Rowe, Curator, Western Hemisphere Collections Carol Bier, Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collections* Sumru Belger Krody, Associate Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collections Claudia Brittenham, Assistant Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collections Erin Roberts, Curatorial Assistant, Eastern Hemisphere Collections

Carol Bier, Islamic Textiles William J Conklin, Pre-Columbian Textiles Thomas J. Farnham, Charles Grant Ellis Archives Mattiebelle S. Gittinger, Southeast Asian Textiles Mary Elizabeth King, Western Hemisphere Textiles James Trilling, Eastern Hemisphere Textiles


Rebecca A.T. Stevens, Consulting Curator, Contemporary Textiles

*position held for partial year

Belt, Ecuador, TM 2001.15.1. Gift of Dr. and Mrs. Walter H. Hodge







2320 S Street, NW, Washington, DC 20008-4088



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