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Chameleon Assembly Manual Assembly Instruction .This is for people who chose to have it shipped in smaller boxes (Fed EX ground) if you had it shipped in larger boxes (DB Schenker) a lot of this is already done for you. All Trident Trikes were preassembled at the Factory and then Disassembled for Shipping, so they require a lot less assembly and readjusting than other brands. Find a nice big open area to work in . Unpack and inspect all pieces. Take a DEEP breath. Tools you will need: Allen Wrenches 15 MM Wrench or Adjustable Wrench Chain Tool Lithium Grease Chain Lube (Any Brand) Blue Threadlocker (recommended) for most bolts http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=153

Notes: As we continually try to make improvements on our models, some specifications will change over time. For initial assembly we recommend leaving all the packing materials on the frame until the end to avoid accidental damage. Periodically check all bolts especially in the first 100 miles.

Check spokes after riding 50 miles and again after 100 miles it is common for Stainless Spokes to loosen up a little when first ridden. Tires These are 100 PSI Kenda Kwest Tires the DECAL is correct on the tire not what is stamped into the casing! (It's a long story... )

Most Trikes will need some readjusting after the cables stretch a little.

Step 1: Inflate all 3 tires to 100PSI.

Step 2: Turn Front Frame Assembly upside down on Blanket or cardboard. Insert front wheels into wheel slots and Brake Rotors into brakes. Tighten with 6mm hex wrench .Use some threadlocker as well on these bolts. Do not be concerned with brake adjustment at this time.

Step 3: With the front section still upside down, attach the next 2 frame sections to the Front Frame Section . Use some Threadlocker on the coupler bolts .The couplers only fit together one way. Tighten the 2 bolts with a 6 mm hex wrench. Smaller coupler takes a 4 mm hex wrench. Turn assembly right side up.

Step 4 : Attach the rear wheel to the back frame section. Tighten with a 15mm wrench. Again do not be concerned with the brake adjustment at this time.

Step 5 : Attach the Rear Section to the rest of the frame assembly. Use some Threadlocker on the 2 bolts and tighten with a 6mm wrench.

Step 6: Insert front and rear booms. Do not force!! Be careful if you remove the screws completely as it is very easy to cross thread them when reinserting and tightening . Slide them to approximate position and tighten slightly just enough to keep them from rotating. Note: it is always important to fully loosen screws when adjusting boom otherwise you will severely scratch the finish. It is also helpful if you put a little Lithium Grease on the threads of these bolts for loosening at a later date

Step 7: Wheel Spacing The Chameleon is delivered with the steering in the front holes this is for the TANDEM spacing

.

We have preadjusted the spacing at the factory, but.. this is the easiest time in the assembly process to recheck and adjust this. You want to measure the spacing at the front and the back at the same level as the axle.

The spacing should be the same. If you like you can give it about 12mm "toe in " (the front closer than the back). Make sure you tighten all the nuts on the steering rods as well . In addition 1 rod goes over the extension piece that is welded to the handlebar, and one goes under (see picture).

When you are making the Chameleon into a single trike, you will put the steering in the BACK holes and readjust the wheel spacing .

The way you adjust the wheel spacing is to loosen all 4 nuts ­ making sure you see that 2 have REVERSE thread and then twist the steering bar. When it is where you want it, retighten the bolts..

Step 8.: Chains. This is a good time to put the chains on. In all likelihood, you will need to adjust the length as well later but for now its much easier to get them threaded correctly through the tubes, pulleys derailleurs and tensioners BEFORE the seats go on!. Refer to the picture for the correct threading. There is a Master Link in each chain that can be taken apart without tools. At this time you can also attach the middle sections of the cables that go to the rear derailleur and the Dual Drive Hub. The Dual Drive must be in UPHILL mode or the cable won't reach. You can also attach and adjust the Dual Drive Click Box now. Please refer to the Dual Drive instruction book for this procedure.. http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/DualDrive_Ins_E_12_02.PDF Dualdrives can be tricky to adjust initially but once they are adjusted correctly they stay that way. If you can't catch the uphill gear when you are riding it means the cable is too tight. Front

Rear

Shifter Cable

Step 9: Put the seat cloth on one of the seat frames. Tighten all the Velcro straps fully. There are places for 2 water Bottle cages on each seat if you want to attach them to one or both sides. There is also a place on the left side of the frame behind each seat that you can put a water bottle cage. This will be the front seat. Attach the front seat to the frame using the quick release levers. There are 2 choices on the top 40 and 42 Degrees. For most people I would recommend using the 42 Degree setting to begin with. Tighten the seat.

Step 10 : Put pedals on the Captains crank if you have not already done so. Adjust the Captains Boom length. I know this sounds obvious, but the Captain needs to be sitting in the seat with feet in the pedals. Make sure you loosen the Boom bolts fully so you will not scratch the underside of the boom. Tighten the boom bolts fully also making sure that the crankset is perpendicular to the ground.

Step 11: Rear Seat. Turn the rear seat upside down and attach the set of longer bar ends please note the position on the picture below and tighten. Attach the seat cloth and fully tighten the Velcro Straps. Attach water bottle cages if desired. Attach the smaller Bar Ends to the larger ones. You can adjust the spacing and the angle to whatever is most comfortable. Don't forget to leave room for the rear mirror on the left (On the right in the UK), The Bar End Shifter is on the left the Brake Lever goes on the right. Attach the rear seat to the frame like you did the front seat. You will probably notice there is another place to put a quick release a few inches below the top attachment. This is where you will put the seat in the SINGLE configuration.

Step 12: Repeat step 10 for Stoker. Step 13: Take a break, admire your work. Mutter under your breath" DAMN this thing is long!"

Step 14: Adjust the chain length. I would start with the front. Make the length so that the chain tensioner has some movement both ways. Take the chain apart at the Master Link. With your chain tool take out some links and reattach them with the Master Link. We have included an extra Master Link, as well as a little extra chain in your parts bag if you need them. For the rear chain again chances are it's a bit long. This one is not as easy to get right the first time though because of all the Chain Rings. In the Smallest Chain Ring , and the Smallest Sprocket on the Cassette, the Derailleur Cage should be at about 8 O'clock. If shifting is sluggish, chances are you need to remove another chain link. Make sure all chains run smoothly. Apply your favorite chain lube.

Step 15: Adjust Brakes. Avid BB7 Manual here if needed. http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/08%20BB7%20User%20Manual%20Rev%20C.pdf Step 16: Attach accessories Fenders, Rear Rack, Lights, Mirrors, and Safety Flag. Please note: For the Front Mirror you have to take it apart and REMOVE the rubber piece on the inside. The mirror then goes on the fatter of the two pieces. The light goes on the smaller piece. If you ordered another Mirror/Computer Mount for the right side, it goes on the same way. When retightening the mirror do not overtighten it as it will crack. If you ordered an extra right side mirror (or you are in one of those countries that drive on the left) you will also have to reverse the mirror itself. There is a piece of metal on the right side steering piece that is for a Wireless Computer Magnet.

BRAVO!! You are ready to ride!!

Chameleon Instruction Manual Part 2 Changing a Chameleon from a Tandem to a Single Note: The more often you do this the less time it will take you I have this procedure down to about 1520 minutes now. It took me an hour the first time. Step1: Undo the Rear Brake Coupler Cable (The Rear Brake is not used in the Single Configuration but the cable is connected to the Rear Seat. Remove the center cable sections of the Rear Derailleur and DualDrive cables.

Step 2: Remove both seats. In the single configuration, you will be using the Front Seat, but for now just set it aside.

Step 3: Chains the first time you do this I would just recommend you remove both chains at this time. In subsequent changeovers , you will end up removing one of them. It really makes no difference which chain you use for the single EXCEPT that it will almost certainly not be the right length.. I have enclosed an extra Master Link in your parts package. You can insert the second Master Link in the chain that you use for a Single. Once you determine the correct length the first time you set it up, you can just remove ( or add if it needs to be longer) the section in between the Master Links, and then reconnect it without any tools. You can also if you like, just keep a 3rd Chain on hand for Single Trike use. The advantage to this is firstly you don't have to shorten one of the existing chains, and secondly depending how often you clean your chains, it's a lot less messy.

Step 4: Remove the Center Section. You do this by removing the 4 bolts in the Couplers (2 front, 2 rear). Reattach the front and the back. Tighten the 2 Coupler bolts. At this time you can also remove the REAR part of the front chain tube (the piece behind the front pulley). This piece is not used in the Single configuration.

Step 5: Reattach the front and back halves of the Derailleur Cable and the Dual Drive Cable. You may have to adjust the Barrel ends before you start riding to make sure everything is shifting properly.

Step 6: Attach the seat. Move the quick release to the LOWER hole. Please refer to the pictures if you have any questions about this.

Step 7: Adjust the boom length. Again make sure you full loosen the Boom Bolts to avoid scratching the bottom of the Boom. When it is the proper length retighten the Boom Bolts.

Step 8: Rethread the chain through the pulleys, tubes and derailleurs. If you have not already done so remove the piece of the chain tube behind the pulley it is not used in the single configuration. The first time you do this you will have to determine the correct chain length. You actually have more leeway here as a Single because there is no longer a Triple Chainring the Chameleon as a Single is 27 Speeds 9 Cogs on the Cassette, and 3 Internal Hub Speeds on the Dual Drive.

Step 9: Readjusting wheel spacing This is an optional step. Technically the Ackerman Compensation of the Steering should be adjusted here. Some people can tell the difference in the steering feel, some cant. This step is more easily done with the seat removed. Move the 2 Steering Rods from the front holes on the handlebar and move them to the back. Then refer to Step 7 on the Tandem Assembly instructions for this procedure. Reattach the seat.

Step 10: Readjust derailleur cables if necessary to ensure smooth shifting. This can be most easily done by using the barrel adjusters. The adjustment for the internal hub is in front of the Dual Drive Clickbox . No brake readjustment is necessary as this whole front assembly stays intact during the changeover.

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Microsoft Word - Chameleon Assembly

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