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Women's Wear Daily · The Retailers' Daily Newspaper · June 13, 2006 · $2.00


Ready-to-Wear/T extiles

Delicate Matters

NEW YORK -- Donna Karan is in the mood for romance -- with a gentle, artsy spin. Her resort collection is filled with washed hues, fluid layers and delicate embellishments. Here, her light-as-air coat and slipdress. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Expanding Their Circle: In Growth Push, Brands Look Past Major Cities

By Miles Socha

PARIS -- Hankering for a monogrammed handbag in the north of England? Or in need of a fashionable designer coat in Siberia? Help is on the way as high-riding fashion giants steer their global retail expansions into new, and less obvious, locations. Louis Vuitton is plotting an outlet in Leeds, England, this fall, for example, while Max Mara is to set up shop in Barnaul, Russia. While designer firms still spy plenty of room to grow in established markets and major cities, many are venturing further afield into secondary and tertiary

See Firms, Page 12





Fendi Sues Wal-Mart on Counterfeiting

By Miles Socha

PARIS -- Fendi bags at Sam's Club? Only counterfeit ones, the Roman fashion house claims in a complaint filed with the U.S. District Court, Southern District of New York, on Friday. The complaint details 12 handbags and small leather goods sold at Sam's Clubs in five states as examples, discounted anywhere from 22 to 68 percent off regular prices. Wal-Mart Stores Inc., parent of Sam's Club, has until Friday to decide whether to withdraw the products from its stores or continue selling them. "The company is absolutely going to fight this," a Wal-Mart spokesman said Monday. "We believe the complaint is without merit. We believe that we can demonstrate that the products we are selling were acquired properly and we'll be able to demonstrate that when the suit is heard. They are actual Fendi products. We believe that we can prove that they are not counterfeits. It's our policy not to sell counterfeit products." Asked whether Sam's Club will remove the products from its shelves, the spokesman added, "We have not removed the products for sale because we believe them to be authentic. We are fairly certain we can prove that." Fendi officials could not be reached for comment on Monday. The complaint, being heard by judge John Sprizzo, alleges that Sam's Club is selling counterfeit products that display Fendi trademarks and are identified by tags as genuine Fendi articles. For example, it pictures a black handbag priced at $508.25, roughly 45 percent less than what Fendi would charge for a similar style. Fendi is seeking injunctive relief and damages for trademark counterfeiting, false designation of origin and trademark dilution. The complaint says Wal-Mart has never purchased products from Fendi or any of its affiliates. Should Wal-Mart ignore the complaint, Fendi will likely proceed with efforts to obtain a preliminary injunction. Last January, Fendi filed a trio of trademark cases in Manhattan federal court alleging trademark counterfeiting and false designation of origin against Filene's Basement Inc. and Retail Ventures Inc. The French luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Fendi's parent, has also stepped up anticounterfeiting efforts, recently winning cases against landlords in the U.S. and China. Warehouse clubs such as Sam's Club and Costco often sell a small amount of designer apparel and accessories at deeply discounted prices. However, in most cases, the products are not bought directly from the luxury goods companies, but instead from diverters, store closeouts or other so-called "gray market" sources. As a result, the amount of luxury and designer products on sale at any time can vary widely depending on what the clubs are able to buy.




6 1 2 5 8 4

Donna Karan's resort collection featured gentle layers and loose shapes in a pale palette, while Badgley Mischka dazzled with signature beading.


As luxury companies populate major cities with multiple stores, they are looking beyond secondary cities to smaller towns for growth. Jil Sander AG has tapped Balenciaga executive Michele Sodi to fill the new position of president of Jil Sander America, based in New York. With bright-colored eye shadow and in-your-face model attitude, Marc Jacobs injected ferocious fashion into the new Louis Vuitton campaign. Saks Fifth Avenue has developed a fall campaign called Want It around 20 top trends it hopes with be key in a bid to bolster sales and margins.


Talking with Kate Burton, who stars in the Theresa Rebeck play "The Water's Edge" that opens Thursday at the Second Stage Theater.

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WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 124. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit . Four .O. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. .O. WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED

-- With contributions from Sharon Edelson, New York

Jil Sander Picks American President

By Amanda Kaiser

MILAN -- Jil Sander AG has tapped Balenciaga executive Michele Sodi to be president of Jil Sander America, a new position. Sodi will oversee the brand's wholesale and retail business in North America and will be based in New York. He starts on Monday and will report to Jil Sander chief executive Gian Giacomo Ferraris, who was a colleague when they worked at Gucci Group. Sodi's priorities will be to balance out the brand's wholesale and retail presence and help the company double the size of its U.S. business to 50 million euros, or $63 million at current exchange, in five years, Ferraris said in an interview. "I could see [Sodi's] experience on the American market... and how he could build a strong relationship with clients and develop the market," Ferraris said. Sodi replaces Tina Goldberg, who left the brand about two months ago for personal reasons. She oversaw the North American business, but her title was vice president and managing director. Ferraris stressed that he will fully delegate strategic and organizational responsibilities to Sodi. "This is the real change," he said. U.K.-based investment fund Change Capital Partners bought Jil Sander from Prada Holding N.V. in February and is working to restore the brand to profitability. Ferraris said the U.S. and Far East markets will generate the bulk of growth. Last year, U.S. sales totaled 25 million euros, or $31.3 million at average exchange, or 19.2 percent of Jil Sander's total revenue. Wholesale accounts, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue, account for about 80 percent of the brand's U.S. sales, Ferraris said, noting he wants to see a shift toward more retail sales. Jil Sander has two directly operated freestanding stores in the U.S. in New York and Chicago. Ferraris said it was premature to discuss the retail strategy and new store openings until Sodi starts work. A Jil Sander spokesman said that Sodi was declining interview requests. "He prefers not to speak before he really starts to work," the spokesman said. Sodi joined Balenciaga in 2002 as U.S. president. Prior to that, he founded and directed marketing and distribution strategy company Fuel. Sodi, who holds Italian and U.S. citizenship, also has held posts at Helmut Lang and Onward Kashiyama. At Kashiyama, he oversaw the U.S. distribution of designer brands including Helmut Lang Jeans, Alexander McQueen, Tocca and Paul Smith. Gucci Group, which owns Balenciaga, is eliminating the U.S. president position for the brand. Balenciaga's worldwide commercial director, Alex Keller, will oversee the U.S. market. He will continue to be based in Paris.

In Brief

WALL STREET SHRUGS: Shares of Liz Claiborne Inc. fell

0.9 percent on Monday, after WWD reported that the company was in the final stages of negotiations with Patrick BousquetChavanne, a group president at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., to succeed Paul Charron, who is retiring. Shares of the apparel supplier closed at $37.42 on lighter-than-average trading volume. Shares of the Estée Lauder Cos. closed the day down 1.9 percent to $38.20. Investors were focused on broader trends, worrying over possible interest rate hikes and the impact on corporate profits. As a result, the Dow Jones Industrial Average shed 0.9 percent to 10,792.58 while the S&P 500 lost 2.1 percent to 2,091.32.

BENSUSAN IN AT DE BEERS LV: De Beers LV has named Selda Bensusan as public relations director in the U.S. She replaces Joan Parker, who is leaving the company this month. Bensusan reports to Alyce Alston, De Beers LV's chief executive officer of the U.S. Bensusan joins De Beers LV after two years as director of p.r. at Cesare Paciotti. AMERICAN ON THE MOVE: American Apparel is making moves in the city. The retailer, represented by PBS Realty Advisors, just inked a 15-year lease on a 5,200-square-foot space at 142 Fifth Avenue, in Manhattan's Flatiron District. Last month, it subleased 2,500 square feet at 2831 Broadway from Commerce Bank, near Columbia University. That deal, for the retailer's first store on the Upper West Side, was negotiated by Newmark Knight Frank Retail. ALLISON NAMES CEO: Allison SpA has named Richard


Tiger Button Co Inc - New York Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam, The Netherlands Tiger Trimming Inc - New York

Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected]

Babboni president and chief executive officer of Allison USA. Babboni started his new job on June 6. He replaces Paul DiazAsper, who resigned a day earlier. Babboni most recently was senior vice president and chief operating officer of Marcolin USA. Allison, which is based in Padova, Italy, and has a U.S. branch in Miami, produces eyewear for brands such as Missoni, Gianfranco Ferré, Dunhill, Mercedes-Benz, Romeo Gigli and Vivienne Westwood.




Knights in Armor

"You wanna sound bite? I got one: My jewelry's about love and history -- I'm just following the universe," said Waris Ahluwalia about his latest jewelry collection, on show at London's Dover Street Market. On Thursday, hosts Daphne Guinness, Alice Bamford and Wes Anderson offered curry scones, spinach frittatas and flutes of Laurent-Perrier to guests including Jade Jagger, Tara Palmer-Tomkinson, Alexandra Aitken and the designer's girlfriend, Chiara Clemente. Waris (his usual single-name moniker) is known for his dagger and skull designs and knuckle-duster rings, and works exclusively in gold and silver. He wouldn't have it any other way. "Empires have been built -- and destroyed -- on those metals. Look at the Crusades," mused the actor-cum-designer, who works in Italy, India and New York. After the cocktail party wound down, the bearded, turbaned Waris and his buddies slunk off to Annabel's to help their old friend Farhad Farman Farmaian celebrate his birthday. During dinner -- and before the Italian waiters belted out "Happy Birthday" -- the well-oiled guests, including Pia Getty, Kadee Robbins, Rena Sindi, Joana Schliemann, Karen Groos and Nicole Hambro, grabbed the tambourines and maracas from the live band and started dancing between the tables. "It was a tight squeeze -- but it was a blast," said the birthday boy. Michelangelo Back in New York that night, things were and Margherita a bit tamer as the young set took over the New Missoni York Public Library for the annual Young Lions Fiction Award Party, Alexandra where Ethan Hawke welcomed Aitken guests, but disappeared before dinner. Thanks to the Twenties theme, many a short beaded frock, jeweled headband and feathered fan appeared in Astor Hall, which just days before had seen some of the same faces for the CFDA Awards. And once again, the overheated crowd took frequent breaks on the building's front steps -- albeit, with some restrictions. "They told me I couldn't bring my wine outside," said Tinsley Mortimer, who was hovering near the doorway, "so I had to choose between my drink and fresh air -- and the drink won." The evening before, gusting winds and a downpour did Waris Ethan little to dent the Ahluwalia Hawke opening party of with Chiara the M Missoni store. Clemente. "It's more crowded than a subway car at rush hour," marvelled one attendee. "Oh, look," said Thelma Golden, "there's Richard Meier. How exciting is that?" Others braving the rain included Margherita Missoni (of course), Damon Dash and Rachel Roy and Alexandra Richards, all of whom trickled over to the after party in a tented garden and chicly dilapidated sculpture gallery on Elizabeth Street. Guests munched on tomato and mozzarella, young Margherita boogied to old Michael Jackson, and at one point, the police showed up because the neighbors complained about the noise.

All in the Family

NEW YORK -- When Kate Burton first read the role of Helen in the Theresa Rebeck play "The Water's Edge," it literally left the hair standing up on the back of her neck -- for all the right reasons. "It was the first time since I'd played Hedda Gabler [2001] that I'd had a kind of visceral experience with a play," explains Burton, 48. "I just thought, `You know, it's very rare to have a writer that writes something so wonderful for a woman that's not under the age of 40." The play, which opens Wednesday night at the Second Stage Theatre, begins 17 years after Helen (Burton) and Richard (Tony Goldwyn) have lost their young daughter in a drowning accident. Richard had abandoned the family, and, after years without contact, he returns, girlfriend in tow, to try to make amends with Helen and their two young adult children. Revelations unfold, pent up anger is released and, ultimately, the question of whether this family can rebuild itself is resolved. Burton first tried the part out in a production two years ago at the Williamstown Theatre Festival. And considering the reaction she had during her first reading, it's unsurprising she chose to reprise it. "It was really wonderful to have this full-bodied woman who was funny and smart and sexy and ferocious and angry and sad. She just had everything," says Burton, who is seated in her dressing room, still wearing her workout clothes after a trip to the gym. A superficial glance at Burton's current life might suggest that she, too, has everything. There is the 21-year marriage to theater artistic director Michael Ritchie, the two children (her daughter, Charlotte, is 8 and her son, Morgan, is headed to Brown, Burton's alma mater) and the thriving career, including three Tony nominations and recurring roles on the shows "Grey's Anatomy" and "Rescue Me." If Burton has "arrived," though, it has not been by any traditional trajectory. Born in Geneva, the daughter of Richard Burton and Sybil Williams, she was a toddler when her father's relationship with Elizabeth Taylor made Kate Burton headlines. Her mother moved to New York, got remarried (to musician Jordan Christopher) and opened a nightclub, Arthur's. Young Burton attended the United Nations International School, where she fell in love with all things Russian (she is fluent in both French and Russian) before heading off to Brown, intent on becoming a diplomat. At the time, she wasn't considering acting seriously. "I just had grown up in a house where my mother was a former actress and she had some actress friends and they were all nuts," laughs Burton. During her senior year at Brown, however, an adviser told her she was squandering her gift, and so Burton went to the Yale School of Drama. Broadway followed, and she now finds herself juggling film, television, theater and even book-ontape voice-over work -- not to mention the work of being a mother and wife. The latter is an occupation that will take her to Los Angeles this fall, where her husband has recently been made artistic director of the Center Theatre Group. Sacrifice is OK with her, she says: "There are still things we cannot do because we're women. It's just the reality...even now, in a totally equal marriage, I'm the one who is always going to organize the baby-sitting."

Anne Slater at Missoni.

Victoria Traina in Marc Jacobs at Missoni.

Tara PalmerTomkinson

Jade Jagger

Roopal Patel in Chanel at Young Lions.

Alexis Bryan in vintage at Young Lions.

Olivia Palermo in vintage Pierre Cardin at Missoni.

-- Vanessa Lawrence



Louis Vuitton Cranks Up Fall Ads

By Miles Socha

PARIS -- With Technicolor eye shadow and plenty of in-your-face model attitude, Marc Jacobs has injected a strong dose of ferocious fashion into the fall ads for Louis Vuitton. "We went for a harder, tougher look," the designer said about the ads, which have Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Daria Werbowy channeling the sort of women who might have inhabited beauty ads -- or album covers -- in the power Eighties. "I think it looks very contemporary." Photographed by Vuitton regulars Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, the campaign is slated to break in August magazines, and also features hip-hop and rap star Pharrell Williams, decked out in a fur vest and gold shades and lounging amidst monogrammed trunks. Jacobs characterized the streetwise ads as a departure for Vuitton and said he wanted to stand out from the "elevated, natural glamour" rampant in fashion campaigns lately. "We all felt really good about working with great girls and doing something different," he said in an interview Monday. "We made them harder fashion images, really chic, almost photographic compositions." The ads were shot in a New York photo studio in March, right around the time Campbell made tabloid headlines in an alleged assault on her assistant. Jacobs admitted the circumstances were unusual, but the outcome was not. "I love the one of Naomi. I think it's so fantastic, and she looks amazing," he said. Models Missy Rayder, Raquel Zimmermann, Kristina Kruze and Du Juan were also cast for the campaign. One of the most striking images features Werbowy with a shoe askew on her head. "We were just playing around," Jacobs related. "At first, we had it on her foot, but the shoe looks like such a strong object visually because its arch is missing, so we tried it on her head." As for Williams, Jacobs said he chose the musical star because "he's an incredibly good-looking guy... and I felt that he could stand up to the strength of the girls." Accessories naturally get a starring role, including oversize ski hoods and pearl necklaces, leopardprint stoles by the late Stephen Sprouse, sunglasses and colorful mink handbags. "It's not that we have to `get in the bag,' " Jacobs said. "I really loved the accessories this season." Plus, he noted, "it's first and foremost a bag and luggage company." Vuitton declined to reveal its fall ad budget, but analysts have estimated the brand spends more than $250 million annually on advertising.

Louis Vuitton ads featuring Naomi Campbell and Pharrell Williams.

six-figure slobs? Fuller's contract with American Media Inc., where she has been editorial director since 2003, expires at the end of the month, and a new one has yet to materialize. While negotiations are moving ahead, sources say her boss, AMI chairman David Pecker, has balked at an extension of her current deal. Fuller's contract provides her with $1.5 million per year in base salary, plus bonuses tied to the newsstand performance of Star magazine and other titles. Fuller was guaranteed a bonus of $500,000 in 2004 as an incentive for leaving her job at Us Weekly, but in 2005, she earned only $74,851 in bonus pay, according to filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission. The trend in Star's single-copy sales suggests she won't be earning much in incentives for 2006, either. Almost all of Star's May and June issues have sold fewer than 700,000 copies on the newsstand, according to competitors' projections, compared with 863,508 in the second half of 2005. Those numbers help to explain why Pecker, according to several sources who have been following the situation, is driving a harder bargain this time around. One insider said Pecker is hoping to slash Fuller's salary by more than half. "David is really under pressure to cut costs," said the insider. "He's not going to renew her contract for the amount of money she's getting now." "I can't believe she'd stay for that," countered an associate of Fuller's. Even assuming other portions of her package were restructured to make up for the salary reduction, he added, "At the end of the day, it's a slap in the face." Another source close to the situation said salary was not the sole point of contention. "They're nickeland-diming her on perks," such as the $18,000 a year set aside for her health club expenses. Asked about these details, an AMI spokeswoman said they were "absolutely not true. All these claimed facts are wrong." But it's worth noting that in 2003, when Fuller's contract at Us ran out, she and boss Jann Wenner claimed in the New York Post to have reached a new three-year deal. Four months later, Fuller defected to AMI. One thing is clear: If Fuller was counting on being able to fall back on her book-writing career, she'll need a new plan B. According to Nielsen BookScan, Fuller's self-help memoir, "The Joys of Much Too Much," has sold only 3,262 copies since April. BookScan tracks roughly 70 percent of the market, meaning the book has almost certainly sold fewer than 5,000 copies total. A spokeswoman for Simon & Schuster, which published the book, declined to say how many copies had been sold, but said 29,000 copies had been printed. She added, "We are pleased with the book's performance and look forward to continuing to work with Bonnie on publicity." -- Jeff Bercovici

BABY BOOM: Shiloh Nouvel Jolie-Pitt's debut appearance on newsstands yielded a major bump for People -- and a good thing, too, considering the magazine reportedly paid more than $4 million for the honor. The current issue, with the first photos of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie's newborn girl, is on pace to sell between 2 million and 2.2 million copies, according to an estimate by a source with access to checkout data. In recent years, only People's year-end double issues have sold at that level; a typical weekly issue sells 1.5 million. The spike is especially notable in that this issue's cover price was increased by 50 cents, to $3.99. Nor does the increase appear to have come at the expense of People's competitors. The current issue of Us is on track to sell about 975,000 copies, while In Touch will sell more than 1 million. Star appears headed for a total of about 675,000 -- well below its 2005 average, but, as noted above, consistent with its recent performance. -- J.B.


TOUGH BARGAINING: Is Bonnie Fuller destined to rejoin the ranks of the




© 2006 Sundance Channel L.L.C. All rights reserved.



The Finer Points

NEW YORK -- "It's like layers of atmosphere," Donna Karan said to describe her resort collection. That translated into fluid and romantic looks, with gentle pilings, loose shapes and lots of ties, knots and beading, often done in a whisper-soft palette. At Badgley Mischka, James Mischka and Mark Badgley worked their evening lineup around two themes: City Girls, an all-black and metallic assortment, and the Go-Away Girl, which was full of floral prints and plenty of color. And Tuleh's Bryan Bradley served up an extra helping of charm in fun, graphic prints, such as polkadots, oversized florals and even smiley faces, all delivered in vibrant shades.

Donna Karan Donna Karan


Tuleh Tuleh Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka





Saks Releases Its Most `Want It' List

By David Moin

NEW YORK -- In a must-win season, Saks Fifth Avenue will take a strong stand behind 21 key looks and build an entire fall campaign around them, called "Want It." The promotion will encompass advertising, shopping bags, catalogues, even original collages that depict the products in witty ways. Saks' "must-haves" -- from Chanel's sexy deepred lipsticks to Gucci's skinny-legged jeans and Missoni's sweater jackets -- will be played up chain-wide starting Sept. 13 when "Want It" kicks off. The 55-unit, $2.7 billion Saks has been struggling with poor sales and margins, but has been developing strategies that hopefully will kick in beginning with the promotion. At a press conference on Monday at Saks announcing the campaign, Andrew Jennings, president and chief operating officer, said the initiative represents "the start of seeing the sales curve ticking up," and is "a key tenet" of the Saks business strategy. "It focuses on a broad range of our customers and offers key fashion trends in an array of price points and styles." The promotion dovetails with the overall Saks strategy, which concentrates on "good, better, best" pricing and "classic, modern and contemporary" merchandising. There also is a revival of private label in the works that seems geared to capture customers that Saks may have lost and fill merchandise voids. After a year's absence, private label returns to the store beginning in early August when the Saks Fifth Avenue Signature collection will bow, followed in November by Saks Fifth Avenue Classic and Saks Fifth Avenue Sport collections. The merchandising program involves what Saks' vice chairman and chief merchant Ron Frasch called capitalizing on Saks' "sweet spots." He pointed to an expanding bridge business, which has casual and "modern" components at Saks. "We're identifying all kinds of businesses where we excel and enhancing our matrix on a store-by-store basis," Frasch said. In the casual bridge zone, Frasch cited Escada Sport, Eileen Fisher, Ellen Tracy and Dana Buchman as among the key labels. In the modern zone, he mentioned Tory Burch and Tahari as among those brands exhibiting a "little more fashion motivation to them." Other labels to be bolstered are Ralph Lauren, Akris Punto, Piazza Sempione and Armani Collezione. From the Want At the flagship, several second-floor designer shops are being renovated, and the sixth floor It campaign, will have new Ralph Lauren men's shops for the designer's Purple, Black and Blue labels. a romantic This week, shops for Agnona and Loro Piana are opening at the Fifth Avenue flagship. Valentino Saks has been negotiating to bring the two labels into the flagship for a year or two, Frasch blouse and acknowledged. skirt. On the accessories front, Frasch noted that Chloé and Fendi handbag shops will be built for fall selling and Graff jewelry is being expanded, among other steps being taken in 2006. Frasch stressed the chain's "good, better, best" and "classic, modern and contemporary" grid approach to the merchandising is not aimed at broadening the customer base or Saks' appeal. It's more about bringing in shoppers who may have defected to the competition and adding customers that fit the store profile. The pricing still runs from bridge to designer. "We are servicing a customer who we perhaps have not serviced so well in the last couple of years," Frasch said, an admission that store executives have made repeatedly during the last few months. While many initiatives are under way, fall's outcome will be largely affected by the success of "Want It" and Saks has to do better than last year's campaign, which may not be too hard to top. Last year, Saks worked its fall strategy in a reverse way. The marketing department came up with a merchandising handle built upon stocking up on cashmere. While store executives deemed the subsequent "Wild About Cashmere" promotion a success, Saks' fall sales figures were hardly impressive during the fourth quarter. Sales totaled $802 million, versus $839.9 million a year previously, and comps increased just 1.4 percent. There were also declines in operating income in the quarter. With "Want It," marketing is taking its cue from the buyers. "This is a presentation to really support the merchants," said Terron Schaeffer, senior vice president of marketing for Saks Fifth Avenue. "We are crafting a promotion based on what merchants believe in. It's about trends and key items in terms of colors, silhouettes and fabrications." Among the products to be spotlighted are: Satchel bags from Chloé, Marc Jacobs and Isabelle Fiore. Flat boots from Dior and Stuart Weitzman. Long sultry leather gloves from Carolina Amato and the Saks label. Men's sport boots from John Varvatos and Prada. Fur-trim coats, including vintage looks from Andrew Marc to a flashy maxi-velvet from Roberto Cavalli. Romantic blouses from Valentino, Elie Tahari and Nanette Michael Roberts created the artwork for Want It. Lepore. The logo (top) and an illustration of a must-have. "Want It is clearly a very important part of August and September deliveries," said Frasch. He declined to specify the investment in the campaign, but noted that it runs across all Saks price points. Two galas are being planned, at the Fifth Avenue flagship and the Beverly Hills store, for the night before the official kickoff. Visuals for the campaign are being supplied by Michael Roberts, fashion and style director at Vanity Fair, who created the 20 collages that will be incorporated into the advertising, shopping bags and catalogues.


Fur-trim coats are "musthaves" at Saks.

Leggings from BCBG, Laundry and Iisli spotlighted with knit dressing.

Patricia Lansing Exits Carolina Herrera Post

NEW YORK -- After a three-year run, Patricia Lansing has exited her mother's company, Carolina Herrera, to spend more time with her children. Lansing, who was instrumental as a designer and in shaping the brand's advertising, officially stepped down Friday. She plans to spend most of her newfound free time with two-year-old daughter Carolina and her 10-month-old son, Gerrit. "I feel this is the only time that you have, when they are so little. I thought this would be a good time to step down to focus on them and to hang out," she said. "I felt very torn. But I didn't want to be the type of person who showed up less and less because I worked for my mother. If I'm going to work, I'm going to do it full-time." Lansing said she plans to continue contributing to House & Garden magazine and, before too long, expects to be dealing with the construction of a home in Barbados where her husband, Gerrit, has purchased property. She also will remain a consultant to Carolina Herrera, albeit an unpaid one. Aside from her daughter's "fantastic" eye for design, "very young and fresh ideas" and a keen sense for what is happening in fashion, Herrera said she also will miss her honesty. "She never lies to me, if she likes something or she does not. But I couldn't convince her to stay. It's sad, but she has her responsibilities and a young family." Ironically, Herrera is the one who sparked the idea for Lansing's departure. "My mom didn't start working until I was seven. She has always said she was so happy to have that time with all of us. She told me, `One day you might wake up and feel you want to be with your children. If you can, you should do it,' " Lansing said. "She is basically the one who planted the seed in my head." But Herrera said, "I did plant it, but I didn't know it would grow so fast."

-- Rosemary Feitelberg

Did You Get the

pg. 77




A summer treat served post-dinner alongside a local cow's milk cheese.

10 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 13, 2006


NEW YORK -- Uniqlo won't deprive New Yorkers of its products for even one minute. The Japanese retailer of low-priced luxury basics such as cashmere sweaters, jeans, T-shirts and sweats, on June 15 will open a temporary store at 486 Broadway, replacing its existing temporary store at 76 Greene Street, which is closing on July 31. The Broadway store will operate through the end of September when Uniqlo unveils a 36,000-square-foot flagship at 546 Broadway. "When we first opened the Uniqlo holiday pop-up store in SoHo we didn't think that it would still be going strong nearly a year later," said Nobuo Domae, chief executive officer and president of Uniqlo USA. "It is our expectation that both our SoHo temporary stores and our summer collection will help us create more expectation and excitement for the upcoming global flagship." The new temporary store will sell graphic T-shirts priced at $9.99 rather than the regular $15 through June 30. The collection features more than 200 graphic Ts curated by Parisian retailer Colette, Staple Design in New York and

Uniqlo Temporary Unit Set for Broadway KT Tunstall, Origins Team For Project Sunshine

Buro Destruct in Germany and includes shirts designed by Japanese artists as well as students from Parsons The New School for Design here. The store will also stock the company's new "dry" clothing, which is manufactured from a high-tech fabric that wicks moisture away from the body. A Uniqlo storefront. Uniqlo's flagship in SoHo will be the company's largest of its 730 stores worldwide. Uniqlo wants to make a statement in SoHo. The chain hired interior designer Masamichi Katayama, whose firm Wonderwall has designed shops for A Bathing Ape, Original Fake and Pierre Hermès Paris, to set the tone for the flagship. MP Creative's Markus Kiersztan is responsible for building awareness for the brand and the flagship. His clients include Nike, H&M and Y ohji Y amamoto. Uniqlo last year opened three units in New Jersey: at the Menlo Park Mall in Edison, Rockaway Townsquare in Rockaway and Freehold Raceway Mall in Freehold. Fast Retailing, Uniqlo's parent, owns Comptoir de Cotonnier in France and One Zone in Japan. NEW YORK -- Scottish rocker KT Tunstall, who recently became a spokeswoman for feel-good beauty brand Origins Natural Resources, strutted into Macy's Herald Square here Friday and signed CDs and posters for as many as 200 fans adjacent to the Origins counter. After the personal appearance, which generated between $5,000 and $6,000 in sales for the day for Origins, a division of the Estée Lauder Cos., Tunstall made her way four blocks uptown to the headquarters of Project Sunshine, a nonprofit organization dedicated to helping children and families cope with serious illness. Proceeds from the TunstallOrigins partnership have been earmarked for Project Sunshine, which claims to have reached 100,000 children through its 10,000 volunteers in the U.S., Canada and Kenya. At the Project Sunshine offices, Tunstall met with media and Virgin Records executives during a private reception, taking some time off a U.S. tour that included gigs in Washington, New Y ork, Boston and Burlington, Origins' president Daria Myers and KT Tunstall. Vt., last Thursday through Sunday. When asked why she chose to work with Project Sunshine, Tunstall, 30, cited her parents, who were both stricken by cancer. "I have firsthand experience," she said. "It's often more difficult for the people around a person with cancer." She added, "There's nothing more tragic than seeing a little kid in a hospital bed. I have a lot of respect for organizations that really understand that." In the U.S. alone, the eight-year-old organization's volunteers are active in 28 hospitals, where licensed massage therapists provide aromatherapy treatments for visiting parents, using Origins products. The program, called the Origins Oasis by Project Sunshine, is designed to provide some relief, and it allows parents a chance to leave the side of a hospital bed but still be close to their children, according to Project Sunshine executive director Amy Frome Saperstein. "I'm a big believer in homeopathy and aromatherapy," said Tunstall. "Origins provides wellness to the customer and we provide wellness to the families we help," said Project Sunshine founder Joseph Weilgus. "We have a very similar goal and mission around the world."


-- Sharon Edelson

just become a dame, but she certainly hasn't lost her naughty streak. The British designer arrived at Buckingham Palace last week to collect her Dame of the British Empire honor from Prince Charles. She was wearing a black silk polkadot dress from her spring collection and a pair of gold Swarovski horns perched on her head, an ancient symbol of fertility. Westwood couldn't hide her delight over the award, saying: "The badge you wear at the waist is sensational, I'm wearing it every day." And while her outfit this time around was more staid than the one she wore to the palace in 1992 to collect her OBE -- a semisheer body stocking with strategically placed fig leaves -- Westwood admitted she'd yet again gone sans underwear. The designer later celebrated her honor by taking a weekend trip to Cornwall with her family. FINAL FOUR: Fashion Fringe has narrowed the field down to four finalists -- Gavin Douglas, Stephen Harper, Six and Seven-Eighths and Antonio Santana -- from a field of 270 designers vying for the U.K.based organization's third annual award. Conceived by Colin McDowell, Fashion Fringe is intended to support innovative talent. To this end, the organization awards a 100,000-pound, or $187,738 at current exchange, prize to the winner of the contest. For the last stage of the competition, the four finalists will be given a grant by Fashion Fringe for materials and will be offered technical staff and studio space through London College of Fashion. Their capsule collections will be showcased during London Fashion Week in September. Fashion Fringe continues to raise its profile. It's being chaired this year by Tom Ford with an international advisory committee that includes Anna Wintour, Miuccia Prada, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs., the official online retail partner of Fashion Fringe, will exclusively sell the winner's first full collection for springsummer 2007. Past Fashion Fringe winners include Basso & Brooke and Erdem.

Fashion Scoops

THE DEVIL SHOPS ONLINE: When launched a boutique themed around the summer film "The Devil Wears Prada" last week, executives never thought a handbag from the special collection would shoot up to the numberone spot in the Amazon Apparel & Accessories store within hours of the launch. And it remained there all last week. The $79 brown studded bag was worn by Andrea, the character played by Anne Hathaway, and designed by Patricia Field, who created the costumes for the film. "It transforms from clutch to tote and pairs with everything from denim to silk," reads the description on But The Devil handbag designed for those eager to get by Patricia Field. their own piece of the movie, unfortunately, there was this on the Web site Monday: "Due to overwhelming demand, we are temporarily out of stock. More will be ready to ship beginning Aug. 1." Other "Devil" items include the "Devil Wears Prada" Tendre Set of four Prada fragrances for $65, a "Devil Wears Prada" baby T-shirt, $14.99, and a tank top, $12.99. NOTHING LIKE A DAME: Vivienne Westwood may have

-- Matthew W. Evans

John Sahag Event Marks New Foundation

NEW YORK -- Some of the most glamorous -- and loyal -- members of the beauty and entertainment worlds will gather tonight at 425 Madison Avenue to honor the late hairstylist John Sahag -- and to shine a spotlight on the future of his hair emporium, the John Sahag Workshop. The Sahag styling team, some of whom have been with the salon for 17 years, will mingle within the spacious hair cuttery and among loyal clients, beauty editors, celebrities and vendors in a group that is expected to reach nearly 200. The salon will feature blown-up images from Sahag's 30-plus year career in hairstyling, from magazine covers to fashion shoots to runway images. Among the evening's most important topics is the launch of the John Sahag Foundation, which could potentially provide scholarships for those in the design and art fields. M. Katherine Dwyer, who has overseen the Sahag business since the stylist's death from lung cancer in June 2005, said the purpose of the event is to publicize Sahag's story. "It has never been told. Very few people have seen what he's done from the Seventies through to 2003," when Sahag became sick, Dwyer said. "Imagination was his reality. He was someone who really lived it. It was his passion." Sahag is best known for pioneering the dry cut, a philosophy that is being carried out by those still at his salon. The tribute is being hosted by John Demsey, global president of the Estée Lauder and MAC Cosmetics brands; Vogue beauty director, Sarah Brown, and celebrities Holly Hunter and Angie Everheart. Rita Wilson, Julianne Moore and Martin Sheen also helped in the creation of the event, Dwyer said, but added they will not be attending as originally announced.



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Cotton Caught in Pinch New `Ultra' Teflon Targets High End

By Ross Tucker

GREENVILLE, S.C. -- The demand for cotton has grown dramatically over the last several years, but concern over whether the U.S. economy can sustain momentum is mounting. Speakers at Cotton Incorporated's 19th annual EFS System Conference here last week questioned whether high levels of consumer spending on apparel could be maintained in the face of continually rising energy prices. "There's been more demand for cotton in the past three years than in the previous 17, I believe," said J. Berrye Worsham, president and chief executive officer of Cotton Inc., during his keynote address to a crowd of more than 175 attendees on June 5. While there is ample opportunity to expand the use of cotton in developing countries such as Russia, China and India, Worsham noted that in the U.S. it is taking significantly more economic growth to generate modest increases of apparel sales. Women's apparel in particular is showing early signs of a potential slowdown. Mark Messura, executive vice president of global product supply chain for Cotton Inc., cited data from NPD Fashionworld's AccuPanel for the first quarter of 2006 indicating that sales of women's apparel by units had increased 8.6 percent and had grown 6.4 percent on a dollar basis. "What doesn't look so good is the direction in price, particularly in the women's market," said Messura, pointing out that despite the growth the average price for women's apparel has fallen 2 percent. Messura also noted the NPD data indicated that women's apparel sales were being generated by the poles of the demographic spectrum; the 18-andunder demographic and those over the age of 55 account for the majority of J. Berrye Worsham growth. The result, said Messura, is a "missing middle" in the women's market and signs of a slowdown in what should be its sweet spot. "This is the heart of the women's market and it's not performing well," said Messura of the 19- to 54-year-old age bracket. The average price paid for women's clothing declines as women get older. Similar trends were seen, to a lesser extent, in the men's apparel market. The difficulties in expanding the domestic market for cotton use stem from the fact that it is already the fiber of choice among a large segment of the population. NPD Fashionworld's AccuPanel found that 56.3 percent of apparel purchases were 100 percent cotton garments, while 78.9 percent of apparel purchases contained some cotton. Corporate America continues to embrace business-casual attire, which creates continued opportunity for domestic expansion in cotton, according to Kathryn Novakovic, director of product trend analysis at Cotton Inc. Novakovic said chatter about companies returning to formal business attire had remained just that, and with jeans cleaned up and given a more tailored look, consumer attitudes are changing about where it is appropriate to wear denim. "According to a recent study, 55 percent of all respondents felt it was appropriate to wear denim in the workplace," said Novakovic. The cotton industry is putting much of its faith in denim. Domestically, the greatest opportunity lies in the premium segments, which Cotton Inc. defines as jeans that cost more than $60. But premium categories represent the smallest segment of the denim market. The biggest opportunity, therefore, rests in getting the consumers of developing countries hooked on denim. "We know that the U.S. is known to be denim lovers, so we have to consider where there are potential opportunities," said Novakovic. "The U.S. consumer has nearly nine pairs of jeans. In China, this [figure] is much less, at around four." The cotton industry is also facing challenges over the environmental impact of its agricultural practices. Roy Cantrell, vice president of agricultural research at Cotton Inc., dispelled the idea that cotton required excessive amounts of water to grow, saying cotton has been bred to be a drought-resistant plant. Edward Barnes, associate director of agricultural research at Cotton Inc., presented the results of studies that showed cotton growing did not require excessive amounts of water. "Grass uses more water than cotton in Mississippi and just about anywhere else," said Barnes. "This idea that cotton is some kind of water hog is just an invention." It's also in the interest of cotton growers to reduce the amount of water necessary. Barnes said the industry's latest efforts are centered on developing site-specific watering techniques, mapping cotton fields to show areas of sandy soil, where more water may be necessary, and low-lying areas that require less water. The goal is to eliminate the traditional method of watering an entire field at the same rate. Technology will play a crucial role in site-specific watering. In a recent project, Cotton Inc. used radio frequency identification sensors in the soil to control water flow. The RFID units monitor soil moisture, sending a signal to an orbital sprinkler that tells it to turn specific sprinkler heads on or off as it approaches. Site-specific strategies are also being employed for pesticides, with promising results, and growers are using natural predators to counter pests like aphids. According to Patricia O'Leary, senior director of agricultural research at Cotton Inc., farmers must decide to use pesticides when they find 50 percent of their crop is infested with aphids. However, a study found that if ladybugs, a natural predator of aphids, will have the same impact as a pesticide. The potential savings to farmers over a season can amount to millions of dollars, according to recent studies. The good news for cotton is that global consumption is on the rise. According to a U.S. Department of Agriculture report released last month, global cotton use is expected to reach 122 million 480-pound bales for the 2006-2007 marketing year, representing a 12 percent increase from the 108.9 million bales used globally in 2004-2005. Not surprisingly, China is responsible for most of the growth. While cotton use is up, production looks to be falling short. Current forecasts put global cotton production at 115 million bales this year, or 7 million bales shy of expected consumption. EFS, which stands for Engineered Fiber Selection, is a software package introduced in 1982 that allows various qualities of a cotton bale to be quickly analyzed and evaluated, allowing for the production of a more uniform product. The system has become a key element to expanding the use of U.S.-grown cotton. Foreign mills are being encouraged to use the software, and must agree to use U.S. cotton in their production. EFS is used by more than 90 percent of the mills in the U.S., and 29 mills in Europe, Canada, Mexico and Asia. Global outreach is adding diversity to the mix at the Cotton Inc. conference, although most visitors still are Southern cotton growers and mill owners. Last year, contingent of cotton growers from west Africa attended the conference, and this year there were visitors from Thailand, South Korea, China and Latin America. NEW YORK -- Athletes and cooks were among the first to buy into DuPont's Teflon, and now Invista, the licensed marketer of DuPont Teflon fabric protector, is eager to woo the fashion crowd. Guests attending a Teflon presentation last week were greeted by pairings of mannequins, including one set decked out in Teflon-treated clothes by Max Mara and Prada. Visitors could put the product to the test by staining white Tshirts with soy sauce, ketchup and coffee, and then rinsing them. T h e r e also was an introduction to UltraRe l e a s e Teflon, the newest version that is said to provide the deep-cleaning release Teflon-treated Max Mara of everyday and Prada outfits. stains like grass and dirt, and reduce graying after repeated washings. The protector is designed to give the fabric a soft hand and breathability. With the exception of a Cintas division that makes uniforms and a number of mills in Asia, Ultra-Release Teflon is not yet being widely used. Brian Cashman, lead engineer for L.L. Bean, said he was impressed by the suggestion that Ultra Release Teflon can withstand 30 washings. "That's a good level of performance," he said. "We'll test it out in our lab." Y eohlee Teng told the audience how she first infused Teflon into her urban nomad collection geared for women who travel globally and have little time to change into different outfits. She also saw it as a way to encourage women to wear white, since it provides added durability. Old Toledo Brands, a $25 million New York-based operation, has been using Teflon in its denim for five years, said Marc Kaufman, chief executive officer. "It's very difficult because of the washings and stonewashings used in fashion denim," Kaufman said. "We kind of stumbled upon it." Gesturing toward a display of Teflon-treated designer outfits, Huw Williams, global business director for textile effects, said, "If it's good enough for workwear, it's good enough for Max Mara and Prada."

-- Rosemary Feitelberg

12 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 13, 2006


Firms Growth Track Leads Off the Beaten Path

Continued from page one population centers. They're capitalizing on a buoyant luxury market and banking on the reach of their brands and their ability to cultivate a local clientele for high-end fashions and accessories. Tertiary cities already represent about 45 percent of the total number of doors for the Max Mara brand, and the percentage is growing for its Max & Co. and Marella labels, according to Luca Donnini, president of the Italian firm's worldwide export division. "Access to brands and products will be a very important ground for future competition in any market," Donnini said. "We definitely prefer to be active in developing a rational tertiary retail formula to supply an original product with a good service, rather than to be passive and allow a growing parallel business." He acknowledged that revenues per square foot in tertiary locations are lower than in flagships in major capitals, but stores in smaller cities benefit from lower operating costs. Max Mara Group operates 1,930 stores in some 90 countries. "As a general trend, we do feel that the so-called luxury market is expanding beyond the exclusivity concept and selective distribution boundary. This is an attitude that must be carefully considered in order not to spoil the positioning of the brand in the consumer's mind," he explained. "But it's also an opportunity to improve the access of our product to any residential area of wealthy communities." Neiman Marcus, which operates 37 full-price stores in the U.S., recently indicated it's mulling openings in smaller markets where the affluent are clustered, such as Charlotte, N.C., Princeton, N.J., or in southern Florida. In addition, the retailer -- along with competitors such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York -- is aggressively expanding its Web site to broaden its reach into states and towns where it doesn't have a store. The goal, executives from all three retailers say, is to satisfy the growing demand throughout America for designer apparel. Meanwhile, Valentino Fashion Group may have chosen to open the first M Missoni store worldwide in New York's SoHo, but the firm sees plenty of opportuLouis Vuitton nity in off-the-beaten-track locales is opening as well as in Los Angeles, Chicago, more stores in Miami, Dallas, Boston and Atlanta. smaller cities Graziano de Boni, president and in Japan. chief executive officer of Valentino USA, mentioned smaller cities such as Des Moines, Charlotte, N.C., Nashville and St. Louis as among the areas the company would like to open M Missoni units. "There's a growing appeal and desire for better products in these places," he said. "Women in these places have much less access to European products. These are places where opening an M Missoni store will be a big deal. The only thing serving these markets is the Internet." Even luxury brands with store counts surpassing the 200 mark are venturing into new territories, setting up shop in secondary cities in highgrowth markets like China, Russia and the Middle East. Vuitton, which recently opened boutiques in Luxembourg and Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, has more globe-trotting in store. Coming later this year are locations in Budapest and Kiev, Ukraine, along with two new Chinese cities: Shenyang and Wenzhou. In Japan, Vuitton is eyeing smaller cities as part of its plans to continue to grow aggressively there. "Sales of our new stores in Urawa and Mito, both middle-size cities, have been more than expected, and there is a possibility of opening

The Max Mara store in Athens.

An accessories display at the Emporio Armani store in Guangzhou.

shops in cities of that scale," Kiyotaka Fujii, head of the French firm's Japanese arm, said in an interview with WWD Japan. "In the metropolitan area, we will review location as well as size of the stores. After the land price declined [when the nation's bubble economy collapsed], there are some changes of people's place to live and shop. We will review them carefully and reconsider the lineup of merchandises." Hermès, which is opening or expanding 25 locations this year, plans new stores in Venice and Amsterdam, as well as a massive "maison" in Seoul. To be sure, freestanding stores continue to be a major strategic emphasis for Europe's big luxury players. A rendering of the Ferragamo store At Salvatore Ferragamo slated to open June 5 in São Paulo. SpA, for example, the company's retail network now generates some 70 percent of revenues, up from about 30 percent five years ago, said Ferrucio Ferragamo, ceo. "We strongly believe in retail," he said in an interview. "For 2006, we have a nice plan of expansion." Already this year, Ferragamo has opened flagships in Mumbai, India; Hamburg, Germany, and Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. The company boasts a network of 450 stores, of which about 221 are directly operated. However, Ferragamo noted the company spies plenty of room for expansion in established markets and is giving "good-sized" cities priority, opening, for example, third locations in Beijing and São Paulo. Other brands are also giving priority to familiar places. Among the major openings this year for Gucci are flagships in the Ginza district of Tokyo, an expanded flagship in Hong Kong and units in Mexico City, Puerto Rico and San Diego. "We believe there's still potential. We're not maxed out," said Gucci president and ceo Mark Lee. "Our main focus is to maximize the potential of the brand in existing markets." Lee noted that Gucci's wholesale business, which represented some 29 percent of sales in the first quarter, gives it reach into smaller markets and tertiary cities where it doesn't have freestanding stores. However, he noted the brand is still "underpenetrated" in California, and that a resort location bowed in East Hampton, N.Y., in May. Giorgio Armani is currently in the process of fine-tuning distribution strategies for each of his five brands, said John Hooks, the firm's commercial and marketing director and president of Giorgio Armani Japan. And while Hooks does not envision boutiques springing up in, say, Dublin or Tallinn, Estonia, for the luxury Giorgio Armani collection, those are considered possibilities for the trendier and fast-growing Emporio Armani brand. Hooks also spies opportunities for stores under various banners in Germany, Eastern Europe, Asia and the Middle East. China is also a place where some luxury firms are already venturing well beyond Beijing and Shanghai. "We believe a lot in the secondary cities in China," said Hooks, citing plans to open Emporio units soon in Chengdu, Hangzhou, Xi'an and Shenzhen, among others. "Where we've opened up, we've had a lot of satisfaction. Wealth in China is very well distributed. We're getting close to having 50 stores in China by 2008." Hooks noted that secondary cities in Russia, like Samara, are also looming as a promising new frontier for freestanding stores in the coming years.





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For more information on advertising in this special section, contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories, at 212-630-4596; Melissa Morales, account manager fine jewelry, 212-630-4588; Elizabeth Haynes, European advertising director, at 331-4451-1303; Kathrine Nelson, senior account executive, west coast, at 323-951-1805, or your WWD sales representative.


14 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 13, 2006


Dallas' Highland Park Village Evolving at 75

By Holly Haber

DALLAS -- Faced with mall competition that is more intense than ever, Highland Park Village shopping center here marks its 75th anniversary this month, charting a course that mixes top luxury brands with conveniences such as a supermarket and shoe repair shop. The Village, designated a national historic landmark as the oldest U.S. shopping center, is adjusting its fashion mix to meet the needs of affluent customers. A youth-oriented Rugby store by Polo Ralph Lauren is moving into a former Ann Taylor store. For fall, trendy Scoop and Scoop Kids will bow, along with a designer bridal salon called Warren Barron and W. Noble Boutique, a designer jewelry shop owned by William Noble Rare Jewels, one of Dallas' most exclusive jewelers. In addition, Beretta is expanding by 1,000 square feet to stock more pricy guns, hunting duds and field accoutrements and Bang & Olufsen is taking a space once occupied by Banana Republic Men's. "We don't want to have something for everybody, but we can be everything to some people," said Jackie Miller Stewart, president of Henry S. Miller Interests Inc., which owns the center. Combined with the recent openings of Tory Burch and Calypso, Miller Stewart's goal is to add a hip component to the mix that addresses family lifestyle needs and draws a younger clientele. In the ultracompetitive Dallas retail market, where it goes against NorthPark Center, Galleria Dallas and specialty stores, the Village benefits from its location across from the Dallas Country Club in the middle of Highland Park, one of the wealthiest U.S. communities. The economically potent population of 8,842 has a household median income of $149,389, according to the Census Bureau, and is home to many of the city's top executives and what is considered "old money." With its Mediterranean architecture, soft piped music and array of restaurants, stores and a cinema, the Village is an open-air pedestrian center with a cozy ambience. The Village is well merchandised and enjoys unusual loyalty, but is still susceptible to losing some market share to NorthPark Center, said Ed Cox, a marketing professor and director of the J.C. Penney Center for Retail Excellence at Dallas' Southern Methodist University. "Dallas is clearly over-stored compared with many other markets around the country," Cox said, mentioning this year's expansion of NorthPark and the $4 billion

Shops at Highland Park Village.


Victory mixed-use project downtown. "But I think [the Village] will hold up quite well. It has a strong neighborhood feel and is much more convenient in terms of location, and avoiding the mall experience for many customers is a benefit." That's not to say there haven't been stumbles. Prada and Christian Dior both shut after relatively short runs, and Calvin Klein closed in December after more than 20 years at the center. "The customer profile has changed in Highland Park Village since the Dallas Calvin Klein store opened," Tom Murry, president and

retail destination for Dallasites as well as the region, surrounding states and Mexico has been very positive," Miller Stewart said. "And we have so many customers who flat-out don't want to go to a mall." The Village was a sleepy venue until being purchased by real estate broker Henry S. Miller Jr., Miller Stewart's father, and other Miller relatives in 1976. "It had many misfits in tenancy and it had been allowed to degenerate physically," Miller, 91, who lived blocks from the center, wrote in an e-mail. "Among its tenants were a venetian blind factory and a plant store with a dirt floor that we replaced with Chanel." The turning point came in 1978, when Ralph Lauren opened a flagship, as well as the opening of Hermès in 1985. Both have since expanded. The Village has built

want to have " We don't be everything something for everybody, but we can to some people. "

chief operating officer of Calvin Klein Inc., said in a statement. He added that the company is focusing more on international stores as well as its wholesale business. Miller Stewart, who presided at a 75th anniversary party at the center Friday night, dismissed the suggestion that the customer is different, saying business this year is up 11 percent for fashion stores in a center that averages more than $800 in sales per square foot. She also is unfazed by the competition. "The attention that has been drawn to Dallas as a

-- Jackie Miller Stewart, Henry S. Miller Interests Inc.

a reputation for luxury with marquee brands in its 55store tenant base, including Chanel, Escada, Jimmy Choo, Cole Haan, Luca Luca and St. John. The Village is one of only four family-owned upscale centers in the nation, along with the Americana Manhasset on New York's Long Island, Bal Harbour Shops in Florida and South Coast Plaza in California, Miller Stewart said. The entire package attracted Scoop owners Uzi Ben Abraham and Stefani Greenfield, who are leasing their first store in Texas at the Village. "We think it is the most charming mall," Greenfield said. "There is a warm lifestyle that you see with people there to shop and eat, and there's great parking. It has a wonderful feeling. You want to shop."

ILO Conference Focuses on Challenges of Outsourcing, Globalization

By John Zarocostas

GENEVA -- The challenges of outsourcing in a globalized economy, and allegations of labor abuses in textile and apparel exporting countries, such as China, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, came under the spotlight at the annual conference of the International Labor Organization. John Sweeney, president of the AFL-CIO, the largest U.S. labor organization, told a gathering of 4,000 delegates, "The U.S. has lost 3.5 million good, middleclass manufacturing jobs since 1998, more than half of them to companies losing market share or offshoring production to cheaper places." Sweeney said economic studies by distinguished economists and think tanks show that "as the challenge of offshoring spreads to services, as many as 28 [million] to 52 million American jobs are at risk." He said the effects are also seen in many poor countries, as companies threaten or actually shift production to China, where workers' rights to organize are not respected. He told labor ministers from 178 countries that globalization does not have to reduce living standards, but added, "As policies are currently unbalanced between the interests of corporations and workers as they are today, a drop is inevitable. We need the right rules for globalization to ensure a rise to the top and not a race to the bottom." Trade union leaders from developing countries voiced similar concerns. Indonesian workers delegate Rekson Siliban said national laws should be adjusted to the workers' needs "instead of openly being dictated by the needs of market forces." Panus Thailuan, speaking on behalf of Thai employees, singled out the problem of "double-standard employment" in his country, where "the subcontracted workers receive lower salary without any fringe benefits...these workers receive low income and employers take advantage of them." However, the views of employers' groups were at variance with the criticisms of the labor leaders. Chen Lantong, vice president of China's Enterprise Confederation, speaking for that nation's employers, said globalization "has accelerated the flow and optimized the allocation and distribution of capital, technology and knowledge in the world." This movement, he said, "has brought new opportunities for economic and social development of various countries." Sarthak Behura, chairman of the council of Indian employers, said, "India strongly supports fair globalization, and is reaping the material, technical and intellectual fruits of globalization. We see a collective energy of enormous magnitude across all sectors in the country, which are indices of excellent economic performance." The International Confederation of Free Trade Unions annual survey, however, documented that serious violations of workers' rights continued to be widespread in 2005. It said 115 trade unionists were murdered, 1,600 were subjected to violent assaults, 9,000 were arrested, 10,000 were fired for union involvement and 1,700 were detained. "The death toll was slightly lower in 2005 than the previous year, but we are nevertheless witnessing increasingly severe violence and hostility against working people who stand up for their rights," said Guy Ryder, general secretary of the ICFTU, which has 236 affiliated organizations in 154 countries and territories, with a membership of 155 million. The report listed Bangladesh as "one of the worst countries for trade union rights violations in the Asian region" and noted collective protests by textile workers resulted in fierce retaliation by police that left hundreds injured. Violations and anti-union incidents were also widespread against apparel workers in Sri Lanka, noted the report. In 2005, there was no letup in the repression of independent trade unions in China, the report said, noting that dozens of trade unionists remained in prison and alleged that authorities "brutally repressed protests" in many locations. "The millions of workers who are responsible for China's economic miracle are still denied even the most basic right to organize without interference and oppression," Ryder said. Tian Chenping, China's Minister of Labor & Social Security, told the conference the country "has the largest pool of labor resources, with a 920 million working-age population." Between 2001 and 2005, Tian said, "over 18 million laid-offs were reemployed."




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Showrooms & Lofts

BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great 'New' Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Search-

Lenzing, the leading international fiber manufacturer seeks dynamic Apparel Merchandiser. Responsibilities include: presentation of benefits of Lenzing fiber based fabrics and garments to US brand and retail; establish and maintain links with Lenzing customers from global textile industry to US brand and retail; coordinate advertising activities including fairs, direct marketing, press activities. Requires considerable experience in US apparel and active sportswear market on retail and brand level and excellent marketing and communication skills. Proficient in Microsoft Outlook, Excel, Word, and Power Point. Travel required. Excellent Benefits, 401K and competitive salary. Please send resume to: [email protected]


Experienced in designer /couture evening-wear. Chiffon & delicate fabrics. Please call: 212-764-0840

Retail Sales Manager

Barbara Katz

Boca Raton, FL fast-paced 8000 sq ft women's better specialty store seeks candidate to manage highly motivated sales staff. Responsible for customer service, spearheading sales growth & working w/management team to achieve company goals. Experience in sales management a must. Salary, Commission, Benefits Send resume to Fax: 561-391-3389 Email: [email protected]


Retail/Alternations Dept. White Plains NY seeks expert fitter, seamstress/tailor in luxury retail store. Call (914) 328-0330


Well Est'd Fashion Co. seeks Shipping Manager for LIC plant location. Fast paced environment, min 5 yr exp in apparel / accessories is required. Knowledge of EDI, shipping to major retailers and invoicing is a must. Email resume with salary history to: [email protected]


Light Box, Color Comments, Lab Dips

J.T.B. / Vol. #1

Fast growing company is looking for hard working, well organized, and computer literate individuals for the following: ·SALES ASSISTANT - Sales Dept. ·PRE-PRODUCTION -Production Dept. Korean as a second language is a plus for both positions. Please Fax resumes to Jackie Pezulich at: 212-398-5177

CAD $55k



Leading Childrenswear Importer of Girls and Boys 0/6x knit and woven playwear seeks a Spec Technician. The right candidate must have a min. of 2 years experience plus knowledge of patternmaking and garment construction. Responsibilities include spec, grading and fit approvals. To apply, Email resume & salary req's to: Attn: Charles/Kathy [email protected]


Upper Moderate Missy Resource, 25 years in business, seeks an exp'd., motivated, professional ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE w/store following; also work existing accounts. Please Fax resumes to Lynn at: 212-382-2058

CAD Assistant $40K

Color Board & Illustrator [email protected] 212-947-3400

Data Entry/Cstmr. Srvc./EDI

Seeking exp'd., detail oriented individual. Aria system a +. Fax resume: 212-515-2424


*SR TD Mens $110K Outerwears, Shirts, Leather, & Coats


Established fashion apparel company seeking an energetic self motivated person to assist the designer w/ a variety of tasks. Fax resumes to 212. 768. 2470.

* Menswear Designers $120K

Cut & Sew Knits. Sports Shirt [email protected] 212-947-3400

Sweater/Knit TD $60-80K

[email protected] 212-947-3400


An US base International Brand sourcing/ Garment/ Accessories Co. looking for: Strong co-ordination skills and require to communicate with customers & overseas buyers, Good interpersonal, communication and presentation skills, Initiative, self motivated, hardworking and willing to accept challenge, Degree Holder or equivalent. Immediately available. Email resume to: [email protected]


* Senior Product Mgr $140K * Product Manager $110K [email protected] 212-947-3400


Develop initial spec and tech packs. Independently fitting tops and giving detailed corrections to overseas factories. Establish production specs from fittings. Growing company needs qualified people. Computer skills essential. Chinese language a plus. 225 West 37th Street Fax resume & salary requirements to 718-456-9011 Or call Mitchell @ 201-960-2510 TECHNICAL DESIGNER - JEANS spec, fit, PDM -to 55K [email protected] 800-544-5878 TECHNICAL DESIGNERS(2)$$ KNITS(CUT & Sew)/SWEATERS & DENIM TECH DESIGNER For major NYC branded fashion Jr/Contemp.Apparel co. Req: 5+ yrs. expr. in either area, initial specs, overseas/dom. comm. with vendors. commenting on fit sessions, comment on prod. develop. from initial spec to final prod. sign-off. Illustrator, Excel, knowl. of pattern making etc. E-mail resume: [email protected] Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660

PROD'N MGR Kids $120-130K


A leading childrenswear manufacturer is seeking a boys & girls woven apparel designer. Experience with age ranges including newborn, infant, toddler & 4-6x girls & 7 boys. Knowledge of Illustrator & Photoshop programs. This candidate will be responsible for the product designing, sketching, art direction and final approval on samples. Excellent salary & benefits. If you have all of the qualifications noted above, please e-mail resume to [email protected] or fax your resume to the attention of M a r i a Bottone - VP Product Development and Production at (212) 947-2039. No telephone calls please. EOE Hang w/ J. Crew, Ralph Lauren, Supervise 6. Int'l Production [email protected] 212-947-3400


Intimate Apparel company seeks production assistant to work with production manager on all issues. Must be computer literate and detail oriented. Major follow up and general office duties skills preferred. Fast paced environment. Please FAX your resume attn: E. Williams (212) 842-4031. EOE.


Looking for Reps nationwide to promote unique fashion line of wireless phone cases. Please call: (631) 273-7302 x138 Fax: (516) 908-7668 or Email resume to: [email protected] SALES EXEC.......................80-120K Branded jr sweaters moderate priced Allen Platt SRI search 212 465 8300 [email protected]


Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808

1st Pattern Mkr $200-300K

$$ The Best $ The Best $$ Couture Runway Designer Seeks 1st Development Jacket PatMkr [email protected] 212-947-3400


All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

Production Assistant


Est. Company needs CHARGEBACK/ COLL Indiv. Must have Factoring Exp., Strong Communication skills, Excel or Lotus Knwlge Req. For immed interview. Fax 212-302-5259 Admin Since 1967


Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.


DESIGN * SALES * MERCH ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437


Great NYC Retailer [email protected] APPAREL JOBS 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Technicals 3)Designers-assoc-assist.boy-girl-YG men-Jr Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy)

Leading Intimate Apparel Manufacturer has an immediate opening for a Production Assistant to follow up and monitor overseas production from date order placed through delivery. Candidate must be very organized, detail minded and possess overall computer skills. Position will be at our Midtown Manhattan Office & report to the VP Designer/Merchandiser production. Leading intimate apparel company is Fax resume with sal. req to Human seeking an experienced Men's/Boy's Resources (718) 961-1965 Designer/Merchandiser for underwear and sleepwear. (Design to target demographic 22-35 years old in men's and Jr/Contemporary line seeks detail 6-14 in boy's.) Must have proven ability oriented person with great style sense. to forecast color, body, fabrication and Must be able to compile tech-packs, packaging trends. Exp with technical & spec garment and make approvals. computer design knowledge required. Knowledge of garment construction Please e-mail resumes to: nec. PC literate w/ prof in Excel. Great [email protected] EOE oppty with growing co. Fax resume: 212-398-0318 / Email [email protected]

Sales Executive

Progressive vertical circular knit textile mfr seeks sales executive with min 5 years exp. Market expertise in sportswear, activewear or swimwear a plus. Please email resume to: [email protected]

Sales Executive

Sportswear Co. seeks an energetic sales professional. Must have major Department/Specialty following in Junior, Missy and/or Plus Sizes. Great Showroom. Fax: 212-768-9058 Email: [email protected]



Junior Sportswear mfr. seeks a highly motivated and creative individual with Fashion Brands Industry 60 hours/week+ supporting established 5 years minimum experience a must. senior sell-side equity analyst. Position Must have the ability to forecast is based in Manhattan and will involve trends and have understanding of substantial financial modeling, exten- Time & Action. sive writing and channel checks. Will Please fax resume to: 212-764-0352 consider candidates with industry exp in lieu of securities exp. Candidate Design must be extremely detailed & proficient Technical Designer Asst in public speaking. Submit resumes to [email protected]

Associate Analyst

YOUNIQUE CLOTHING Asst. Production Manager

Well est'd Ladies Dress Company seeks individual w/6 + yrs exp w/Trims or Fabric Fax: 212-704-0462



Est'd Missy sweater/knit importer seeks Chinese/English detail-oriented production person. 3 years experience & excellent follow-up skills required. Fax resume: 212-302-5184 or call Lisa: 212-302-3744; email [email protected]

Cotton Fabric Line Importer of fancy piece dyed & yarn dyed mid range price point fabrics seeks commissioned piece good reps in N.Y.C. & L.A. with est'd. lightweight men's & women's wear customer base. Fax/E-mail: 201-215-9502/[email protected]



Established, fast-paced private label company is looking for an associate level designer w/ a degree in Fashion Design. Must be able to work independently, possess great follow through skills, and have the ability to flat sketch & illustrate. The ideal candidate will have experience in both wovens and knits, with a focus on print/embroidery development. Proficiency in Illustrator and Photoshop required. Fax resume Attn:MAS (212) 302-1856 BUYER/DENIM/ $70-100K For very successful multidiv. NYC apparel co. Must have expr. buying denim for a Jr. fashion co. Must know premium washes etc. China + expr. E-mail resume: [email protected] Fax 917-591-2521 Ph:914-337-3660

Seeking entry-level Technical Designer Asst with one year experience in design. Understanding of garment construction, pattern making, flat and Well est'd fast paced NY girlswear spec skills are required. Please email importer is seeking candidates with 2+ years experience in all aspects of resumes to: [email protected] garment production. Must be detail oriented with strong communication and computer skills. Shoes, All Categories. NYC Retail. Please email resumes to: [email protected] [email protected]

Production Coordinator


Couture house seeking indiviual with minimum 5 years current exp in hand beeding and complete finishing of garments. Please call: 212-764-0840 INVENTORY PLANNER ....... 55-60K Control, analysis and forecasting Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 [email protected]

PRODUCTION-Imports-2+ yrs exp w/ an apparel importer writing orders/factory dealings/ordering labels. $35-40K Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870


Acess. Co seeks detail oriented indiv to work P/T for temporary position in purchasing/production. Starting Aug 1 for approx 5 months: M-F 11:00-5:30 Must have exc computer skills: Email, Word, & Excel. Fax res: 212-302-2753


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